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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Sick of that stupid brittle and vulnerable little plastic overflow tube from the radiator expansion tank to the overflow. So, so easy to break off that there are weekly threads on various forums and face book pages saying I have broken the silly little thing off and how do I fix it.

I looked at various options and it occurred to me that just IF Nissan had thought to rotate the top and put that pissy little plastic stub back over the expansion tank. Then bugger me, you couldn't break it off so easily.
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Since I have had the GU, I busted two of these silly little brittle pipe fittings of the radiator expansion tank and a workshop has busted it off and replaced it once as well. So before I fit the new one I am doing a test run with one of the old spares.

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Finished product.

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I used a brass fitting with 1/8 NPT just because I have a 1/8 NPT tap already. BSP would work equally well and I got the idea from others on here that had posted how to fit a brass fitting.

I drilled a hole and very carefully threaded it to not go too far through and scratch seat where the cap needs to seal inside.

The first test run on my old tank I put the fitting a bit further over the tank (see the top photos). But that made it very hard to drill and tap the hole. I damaged the seal area as you might be able to see in the first photos. So on the newer tank I was a lot more cautious, I put it back a little bit where it was easier to get to drill and tap. I also used a bit of hard plastic under where the drill and tap would come through the hols so I didn't hit the seat area.

I closed off the hole of the broken stub by using a hot air gun and a flat blade to gently melt the busted bit and mold it back over the hole. The cap looks like it is sitting crooked in the photo but it is just the seam on the tank is at an angle to the top. I wanted to make the join and glue job neater factory look but this was the best I could do
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I then glued it with Permatex Plastic Weld. I threaded in the new fitting so it faces back over the tank where I can't bust it off again. Then glued all around making a thick reinforced area with the Permatex Plastic Weld. Job done like new one should have been, not pretty but strong.

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Bonus.
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Just got a reminder message this morning from Supercrap auto that I have $26 credit due to end today.

So went and got a free fancy radiator cap with the release lever. This should be easier to bleed. Only need to flip the red lever and air will bleed out but not open the cap and shower coolant all over the place, I hope.
 

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GUII ZD30DI Wgn
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Understand what you are saying but mine is a one owner (me) 17 years and I've never broken that off...... Great fix though if you have...

I'll keep an eye out for the cap though, I have two, a .88bar and a .90bar and strangely I can see a difference between the to when I use them, what bar reading is that?
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Understand what you are saying but mine is a one owner (me) 17 years and I've never broken that off...... Great fix though if you have...
Amazing you have lasted that long. I do think that each time it has been broken were suspiciously just after it had some work done on it, on the exhaust manifold, on the exhaust dump pipe. Also once was me fitting a compressor directly under the fitting. Just so vulnerable.


I also found out that the two parts are different plastic. Polypropylene on the bottom pressure section and a Polystyrene on the top cap and that stub.
 

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GUII ZD30DI Wgn
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And the cap is 0.9bar. Its model number was 1390 for 13 psi 90 kpa
I'll look for that, the original was 0.9bar and a genuine replacement I bought earlier this year was 0.88bar but strangely I can see a difference between how they react, which I don't fully understand for such a small differential.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Ah sorry I edited that after checking the number.
CB1390L

I am hoping that it will make it easier to bleed air quickly hot or warm. The red lever which just lifts the spring section to open the pressure valve but still stays sealed around the top cap.

After having to bleed and top up every day for nearly five months when we were travelling and the head was cracked, I realized how much effort it was to bleed effectively and if the siphon was not maintained then coolant did't return as it cooled and there is no easy way to transfer it back.
I made a rubber bung with a tube so I could fit it to the overflow and blow into the tank to push coolant back till it overflowed from the cap. But that made a mess every day.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
A good solution for a problem we see every week.

ZD30 rules the road.
Yes it is one of the many little things that has been bugging me. So rather than find a problem when I'm out bush somewhere, I thought might as well do it now while I am waiting for final parts and I can't get much else finished before Christmas.

Next mission to sort-out/replace some of the pipework all over the place, that annoying airconditioner hose above the airbox, coolant pipes, the power steering cooler lines cross one side to the other, transmission cooler and even the vacuum to brake booster does a full lap of the engine bay.
 

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GUII ZD30DI Wgn
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42[/ATTACH]Bonus.
View attachment 438066

Just got a reminder message this morning from Supercrap auto that I have $26 credit due to end today.

So went and got a free fancy radiator cap with the release lever. This should be easier to bleed. Only need to flip the red lever and air will bleed out but not open the cap and shower coolant all over the place, I hope.
Bought one this morning, quite a tight fit and you can't undo it until the lever is lifted, going to Caboolture tomorrow so will see how it goes.
 

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GUII ZD30DI Wgn
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Hi Ross I haven't been keeping in touch, so how did the drive go with the new radiator cap?
Good, definitely no negatives, much easier to bleed air that's for sure, need to find a steep incline now get any remaining air right to the back, the little unseen dividers inside the tank make that more difficult.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Good, definitely no negatives, much easier to bleed air that's for sure, need to find a steep incline now get any remaining air right to the back, the little unseen dividers inside the tank make that more difficult.
Good to hear it's easier to bleed, that was my hope to be able to do it without coolant spills.

Yes I didn't realize there were dividers till I was trying to flush the tank out. It had been sitting in a box for six months so some coolant had dried and left a crusty residue inside. For bleeding air out, I have the added advantage of a steep driveway and the airbags, so I can raise the front to bleed through the engine then lower the front and raise the rear to bleed the tank. Well that's the plan when I finally roll it out of the garage that is. I'm still waiting on a few final parts then it will be the final push to get it back together.
 

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Whatever the cause, why doesn't the liquid return when it cools?
Does the bottom vessel have a soup, to be defective?
In my case, after I stop, a sound is heard, but it does not return to the vessel until halfway through and the lower one remains much above the level.
I keep moving the liquid every morning but it's still not stable?

Is that lid the solution?
 

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GUII ZD30DI Wgn
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Make sure there are no air leaks at connections between the top tank and the lower tank, because there is no real pressure seen in that line when expansion takes place you may not see a coolant leak, but air can still be sucked back into the top tank from a 'bad' connection rather than coolant.
The levered cap is only for convenience, does not fix anything.
 

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I sealed the hose between the vessels, it's fine both down and up, but the top vessel still hasn't fully returned.
How many nights does it take to fully ventilate?
 

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I sealed the hose between the vessels, it's fine both down and up, but the top vessel still hasn't fully returned.
How many nights does it take to fully ventilate?
Top vessel is not always full, it will vary a little, but that 'little' can look like a lot.
 

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Mate do some reading please, we spent a lot of time, years, putting together info re the ZD30 in the DI archives, in post #9 there is a full workshop manual I have stored on a site I use (I know the download works because I tested it yesterday), there are other manuals etc stored there as well. There is also a very good thread on how to change coolant in the archives and I know that it works, could be under 'maintenance threads'.
 
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