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Hopefully there is enough room to slide bits back and forth, it is pretty tight in that area of the ZD30, not sure about 4.2 - 2.8 - etc, don't really want to remove steering column or box! Will remove the rubber panel from under the mudguard for a look when I get a chance.
View attachment 546543
I was hoping someone would do it before me. Was wondering if the steering column need to be unbolted and pulled back. Obviously the rag joint setup is different and should be easy enough to remove.
Mine should turn up today too.
 

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Removed the rubber panel from under the guard, being the eternal optimist I'm 95% confident this job can be done without removing anything else (of course there is a 5% chance I'm totally wrong 😱). Looks to be enough wriggle room. When I feel a little better I'll tackle it through there. Turn the steering wheel until bolt heads face outwards, mark the splines in case something moves in the process.
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I could be wrong but I don't think you can misalign the splines as the locking bolt won't go through where the flats on the splines are?
 

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I'm not sure I want to try this mod considering that replacing the rag coupling with a solid unit will mean it's the bearings in the upper column housing and its brackets under the dash that will have to absorb any movement or shock between chassis and body.
I just don't see a sufficient advantage to make the possible risk of damage elsewhere worthwhile.
How do you think the 80 series is different where this isn't an issue?
 

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I have absolutely no idea how an 80 series is constructed so really can't comment on that.

Edit: A quick Google appears to show that 80 & 105 series have a flexible coupling somewhere in the steering column.

It’s fitted under the dash..

View attachment 546635
Interesting.
Well I guess there is going to be a few guinea pigs now to report back any issues.
 

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Finally got a moment to swap mine out. Only took 20 min. Maybe because I have undone every nut and bolt on the car (other than the doors) in the last 5 years helped.
Plus I have much better top access than in a zd30 GU. I still did most of the job through the wheel arch.
The old one had seen better days and was probably a serious danger.
Putting in a vice and grabbing with multi grips I could probably get 5 degrees of rotation out of it.
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To pose a question, how will the dreaded wheel wobble feel now?
This is a little concern I have had as it does have a strange bump steer/vague feeling at times, generally over a large undulation on the highway. Never under short sharp bumps. And that time I blew a power steering hose I got the death wobbles which the consensus here was lack of PS fluid should have no effect to that. I haven't changed anything since then and it has been fine.
Either way I have had a feeling there is something not quite 100% in the front end.
Maybe it was this rag joint all along. Haha
 

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That was a thought I had too, a bit of play in the joint could have some ramifications with other components. Only have to see what happens with worn bushes. 🤔
I can't really see how. I would have thought all the load is taken though the hydraulics and gearing in the steering box.
It doesn't take much force to turn the steering wheel (while the engine is running) so that is all the force the rag joint is going to see, whether that is input from the driver or feedback from the wheels.
 

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Just got back from a weekend out at Condamine Gorge.
It made a big difference compared to the old flogged out rag joint it replaced. And to my surprise it seemed to reduce feedback to the steering wheel.
The dirt roads were all in really good condition do no corrugations, only a few potholes in the low sections.
The windy roads felt alot more positive in the corners and on the highway less wandering.
Having said that I doubt the Mrs will notice next time she drives it.

And like Ross I must have miss aligned the splines as not the wheel is slightly to the left when it was slightly to the right before. Haha
 
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