From what I've been able to find, the hook on the back is a rated recovery point but the actual hook isn't very strong and should be replaced for heavy recoveries. Can anyone recommend a good replacement?
Rear recovery hook.
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Just get the rated recovery tow hitch with shackle that slides into your tow bar, something like this: http://www.bcf.com.au/Product/XTM-Recovery-Tow-Hitch-with-4-75T-Bow-Shackle/215597
I just use a standard towing tongue with the tow ball removed. It fits a shackle just fine and I don't have to pay $50 for it. You do need a tow bar for either method though.
Yes there are other ways, I won mine in a raffle, still a lot easier than replacing the hook on the rear bar
. The majority of Patrols I see around the traps have tow bars though so I made a likely assumption there.
I've never seen an aftermarket replacement for the tow loop in Australia.
I've got both...
Pintle from a GU Cab Chassis and a towbar rated recovery hitch from good old Aldi.
Just be careful with the pintle. It can do some serious damage to the big barn door if you try to open or close the door with the pintle in the open position.
Pintle from a GU Cab Chassis and a towbar rated recovery hitch from good old Aldi.
Just be careful with the pintle. It can do some serious damage to the big barn door if you try to open or close the door with the pintle in the open position.
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Was the pintle an option over here, I've never seen one on a ute whether coil or leaf. My original ute towbar actually bolts to where the hook would normally be.
If you do use something there make sure the bolts are up to the task and more importantly the captive threads in the cross member are still in good condition. I've seen a good recovery point fail on a cruiser because the bolts and threads were corroded and not seen until they sheared.
If you do use something there make sure the bolts are up to the task and more importantly the captive threads in the cross member are still in good condition. I've seen a good recovery point fail on a cruiser because the bolts and threads were corroded and not seen until they sheared.
^ This is why I would never use the tow hook position for a recovery hook. The bolts are in 'normal' stress, whereas a 50x50 hitch mounted recovery point using the pin means the forces are in 'shear' stress.
The towbar pin is a lot less likely to fail than the threads on the four bolts.
The towbar pin is a lot less likely to fail than the threads on the four bolts.
Absobloodylutely.
You make me wonder now... :shock: I thought all utes came with a pintle but most of them get removed because people fit towbars. You can't have both because, like you say, the towbar uses the same mounting points.
I got mine from a wreckers who told me it came off a ute...
I only use the pintle for "light duty" recoveries, like pulling Hiluxes off rocks.
I'll never attach a snatch strap to it. It's bolted on with 4x M12x1.25 flange bolts.Outback ideas do make them but not sure if John is making them as he had a family tragedy.
They have been used on comp trucks extensively without fail.
You could try [email protected] best of luck.
They have been used on comp trucks extensively without fail.
You could try [email protected] best of luck.
The minimum tensile yield of an M12x1.25 is 73700 newtons, which is over 7.5t, and that's just for one. Provided bolts are in good condition they will rip the captives out of the chassis before they break, either in shear or yield, so I'd also be paying more attention to what you're bolting to the chassis. I agree the outback ideas stuff seems quite good in my limited experience with it.
Just noticed this, that's a big NO NO :nono: A young guy was badly injured in Sydney a couple of years ago snatching like that. The welds holding the tongue to the tube let go & the tongue & shackle came through the back window & hit him in the head. Those welds are only designed for towing, not snatch recovery loading.:cheers:
The only way that my tow tongue could possibly snap before a snatch strap snaps is if it is already suffering from fatigue cracks. Same for a tow ball. The difference is that it is impossible to inspect a tow ball for fatigue cracks without removing it. It is pretty easy to check the welds on a towing tongue when it is installed. I'll happily continue using the towing tongue which I understand is only designed for towing, but then so is the tow bar.
Edit: I just did some searching for the mentioned incident and the only instance I could find of welds on a tow hitch failing during a snatch recovery was when the hitch was that badly corroded that more than 50% of the weld material had rusted away. The hitch travelled another 90 metres after striking the victim in the head. More info here in the coroner's report; https://www.magistratescourt.tas.go...ings/s/stein,_joshua_phillip_-_2010_tascd_418
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