Patrol 4x4 - Nissan Patrol Forum banner

1 - 20 of 23 Posts

·
Registered
nissan
Joined
·
54 Posts
Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
hey gents,

I've decided to start the design and construct of my rear storage system / sleepable rear. It's going to be broken up into 2 parts - a set of 2 drawers that go in behind the 2nd row of seats when they are left in, and a more complex section that replaces the second row of seats when they are out (i.e. when me and the missus go long term trekking with no need to carry other people).

I've attached a couple of renders of my design for the drawers bit. The first image is the approximate floor plan of the boot section behind the 2nd row seats to show what my design window was. Then a couple iso's of the drawers. You can see the drawer on the LHS is sized to sneak out when only the smaller left barn door is open and the RHS one bigger.

Design concepts not clear on the pictures:

  • Material - 12mm structural ply.
  • the LHS and RHS drawers are each enclosed in seperate 'frames' - So they can be pulled in and out of the car easily. Max weight of any one component is 15kg's.
  • There will be 15x15 aluminimum equal angle along each load bearing join's length.
  • The drawers won't be utilisting rollers, I'm going to use UHMWPE 'slides' under the drawers. This (Ultra High Molecular-Weight Poly Ethylene) is a really slipperly material that supports heaps of load and still slides well. Should let my drawers be loaded to unlimited weights and still be easy to pull in and out. I use this **** at work in massive load bearing applications and it still holds up well.
  • Tops will be carpeted, and a 1mm rubber lining to all inside surfaces of the drawers - reduce impact and stop stuff sliding round inside drawers hopefully.
  • Total weight of everything pictured is around 47kg's. Chump change.
  • Fastened down to factory anchor points. I will drill and tap more if req'd, but I reckon there'll be plenty.
I intend these drawers to nearly match up with the storage section I'm going to put in where the 2nd row seats go, so I have a flat floor suitable for two people sleeping on if its raining outside or too cold for the lady in her swag ha-ha. There will be a gap between the front and rear storage things - about 150mm - with a removable bit covering this. In this gap I intend to put my computer, amplifier, inverter, etc. High and dry, and I'll put a ventiliation fan in there to keep the gear cool as well. Maybe a couple of gel 6V batteries in parallell as well, we get the puppies free from work and they are the goodness, last forever and a day, small. light and fully sealed. I think they use em for fire control systems emergency power or something.

Anyway any thoughts, comments on the design where I might be going wrong, anything else? I will keep the thread updated with my designs and build progress! All comments or (hopefully) constructive critcism welcome!

EDIT: some dimensions - total width is 1098mm, left drawer assembly is 360mm, right drawer assembly is 735mm. Height of all of them is 330mm, and the length (backwards) is 920mm. This leaves me just inside the closed rear doors, and brings the back nicely up against the 2nd row of seats when they are installed.

cheers fellas!
 

Attachments

·
builder not a buyer!
nissan
Joined
·
2,702 Posts
nice work mate. keen to see these slides you have mentioned

cheers
 

·
LED ZEPPELIN
1995 GQ TD42 NA
Joined
·
12,022 Posts
I'd always leave a 'finger gap' at the top of the drawers - given the sort of weight they will likely take, pushing them in from the top of the front panel could result in a very painful injury.

I'm about to start designing my own home-built system so will keep an eye on your topic (and start my own).
 

·
Registered
nissan
Joined
·
54 Posts
Discussion Starter #5
nice work mate. keen to see these slides you have mentioned

cheers
mate check out:

Dotmar - Australia's Leader in Engineering Plastics | Acrylic (Perspex), Polyurethane, Polycarbonate, PVC, HDPE and More

They have info and can supply a lot of engineered poly's and plastics. I don't know about cost cos I get all this crap for free (one of the few perks of working where I do) but I assume for 'trade' level amounts it would be reasonable. Definitely cheaper than those bastard priced drawer rollers which reduce your potential strength, and are rattle prone (in my opinion). Though I'm no expert so take my opinion with a grain of salt. I've had UHMWPE supporting several tonnes of steel, dynamically impacted, rotating (sliding) through a large range of motion and it's lasted years before though so if you went that grade of material it'd outlast the vehicle you put it in. In fact all the steel around it **** itself before the PE did.

I've been drafting up the forward section of my storage arrangement so I will post it shortly.
 

·
Registered
nissan
Joined
·
54 Posts
Discussion Starter #6
I'd always leave a 'finger gap' at the top of the drawers - given the sort of weight they will likely take, pushing them in from the top of the front panel could result in a very painful injury.

I'm about to start designing my own home-built system so will keep an eye on your topic (and start my own).
thanks mate, good advice and I will take it into consideration! watch this space. Currently there is a 20mm gap, i just measured my finger and its 15mm but thats not including the sliders so I'll have to include that ha-ha. plus my fingers might get fatter if I keep eating all this bacon and eggs.
 

·
LED ZEPPELIN
1995 GQ TD42 NA
Joined
·
12,022 Posts
Not just your fingers you need to think about! It might be second nature to you to use the handles (or just the face) to push 'em in but someone riding/travelling with you could come a cropper...

I'm thinking of LEDs inside mine, easy to do these days as there's heaps of options out there.

Do you use a fridge? Was thinking that you could set it up so you can run the fridge on top of the drawers for 5-seat set-up and maybe move it to the rear floor when you want to go full-length for a bed? Not sure if you'd have enough room...

I'm very interested in the UHMWPE slider idea, thanks for the lead! Your dimensions etc. are also very useful and I love the graphics.

For mine I am probably going to go with a symetrical half/half system so I can run one rear seat alongside either the fridge or the drawers - my fridge is big so will have it on the floor/slider, with a stacked drawer set on the other side. I have three kids and they are getting old enough now that we will likely be taking one friend along on day trips up the beach - so being able to run it as a 6-seater with fridge is desirable.
 

·
Registered
nissan
Joined
·
54 Posts
Discussion Starter #8
finished the storage in the back area (where the second row seats fit normally). I left a 170mm gap between the storage boxes to house my amp, my computer and my inverter. To cover this and keep it hidden, and when i choose the sleep on the storage gear, I've capped it with a 165mm wide bit of ply which is held in place flush by 2 sides of 20x20 square pine. Where the second row seats were now is a huge storage area which is good for tonnes of gear. Looking forward to seeing what I can fit there! Have to undergo some reinforcement with Al angle before its good for sleeping on though I think.

Where the second seats sit is ~100mm lower than the 'true' boot section so I've incorporated that into the design to pick op the anchor points for the 2nd row seats. Total weight for everything comes in at 60kg's of wood. add 10kgs of aluminimum angle and we are still laughing, less than one man size passenger for some solid storage apparatus.

I've attached an isometric of the entire lot installed as per the patrols design criteria - i.e. the design constraints imposed by the geometry of the interior.

Any comments / queries let me know.

P.S I made the tops transparent so you can see the interior detail. Handles are decorative only, I will flush mount something

P.P.S there is now 1800mm length of sleeping space between the front seats and rear door, without moving the front seats from driving postion at all. Pretty comfy I reckon, enough for me and the missus anyway,
 

Attachments

·
Registered
nissan
Joined
·
54 Posts
Discussion Starter #9
P.P.S I will be producing fab drawings for the above suitable for construction from any joiner or carpenter. If anyone is interested I'm more than happy to post as well.

Or if anyone wants anything drafted or designed, if its interesting enough I'll give it a crack as I'm always keen to get practice with challenging drafting. I never get enough of it in my day job. I have access to all software known to man.
 

·
Registered
nissan
Joined
·
54 Posts
Discussion Starter #10
Not just your fingers you need to think about! It might be second nature to you to use the handles (or just the face) to push 'em in but someone riding/travelling with you could come a cropper...

I'm thinking of LEDs inside mine, easy to do these days as there's heaps of options out there.

Do you use a fridge? Was thinking that you could set it up so you can run the fridge on top of the drawers for 5-seat set-up and maybe move it to the rear floor when you want to go full-length for a bed? Not sure if you'd have enough room...

I'm very interested in the UHMWPE slider idea, thanks for the lead! Your dimensions etc. are also very useful and I love the graphics.

For mine I am probably going to go with a symetrical half/half system so I can run one rear seat alongside either the fridge or the drawers - my fridge is big so will have it on the floor/slider, with a stacked drawer set on the other side. I have three kids and they are getting old enough now that we will likely be taking one friend along on day trips up the beach - so being able to run it as a 6-seater with fridge is desirable.
hey man, good one. Yeh I am going to cut back the front 'face' of the drawers down 40mm or so just to avoid this danger.

Half/half is fair enough - You have a need I am still a fair few ways off needing the extra seats etc yet!! (hopefully, unless the missus forgets the pill hey.)

If you are keen to spend some cash on plastic sliders, go the 'teflon' impregnated ones instead, better friction characteristics. or should I say, lack of friction. I just use the UHMWPE in applications where regular steel could cause an explosion when handling bulk explosives. by choice I'd go the plastic with the teflon additive but it may be a cost VS benefit thing for ya. If you are nice I could fling you some freebie UHMWPE as I come across it, haha.

I use a 50L WAECO. I have sized the height just so it opens up directly behind the front passenger seat when it's on top of the storage gear. Don't need anything bigger cos its just me and the missus but again you might need a bigger fridge so would need some adjustments.

I don' think there'd be enough room for a big fridge and a double bed sized sleeping area... but I dont like sleeping squished. I have done enough of that in ****ty camps, dongas, and other places, that I don't need it on holiday.

but appreciate your thoughts mate keep em coming.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
189 Posts
im just about to start my draws aswell. saw an idea on ebay but not for the same purpose, im going to have the fridge on sliders on the passenger side and two draws on the drivers to the same height as the fridge which will be boxed in. but under the draws im going to put a pull out table, same slides as the draws and have a couple of legs drop down. cover the table with aluminium so its easy to wipe down..
love the bedding idea. wanted to do that for the boys weekends but too hard and cant justify pulling out the seats every boys weekend. but bloody love it
 

·
Registered
nissan
Joined
·
112 Posts
Hey Dave any chance you could send me the base dimensions for a draw set up?

I want to design my own set of draws on solidworks but don't have the dimensions to get started.

Cheers
Tim
 

·
Registered
nissan
Joined
·
54 Posts
Discussion Starter #13
Hey Dave any chance you could send me the base dimensions for a draw set up?

I want to design my own set of draws on solidworks but don't have the dimensions to get started.

Cheers
Tim
yes mate for sure, what dimensions exactly are you after? I have allowed around 5mm clearance from all annoying protrubences in the inside of the patrol wagon cabin, there are a few if you open the back doors and have a look (wheel arch on the left hand side, small flushing protrubence from the wheel arch on the RHS, non-symmetrical wheel arches each side, complex geometry underneath the second row of seats makes it hard to mount something neatly etc)

I can send you a drawing of everything I have attached so far, but all dimensioned? then with a tape measure and a pad and pen you could see easily how it will all fit in the back.
 

·
Registered
nissan
Joined
·
351 Posts
Hey mate this is a very interesting thread. I will be making a very similar setup as you for the exact same reasons. I was thinking of making a frame from RHS and using folded steel sheet drawers.
Keep the posts comming
 

·
Registered
nissan
Joined
·
54 Posts
Discussion Starter #15
Hey mate this is a very interesting thread. I will be making a very similar setup as you for the exact same reasons. I was thinking of making a frame from RHS and using folded steel sheet drawers.
Keep the posts comming
I was thinking steel as well - for strength, and with intelligent / judicious use of steel you could make it lighter. then I thought it might be hell rattley, and rattles when I'm driving send me crazy, and will it really be any lighter, and for sleeping on it you'd need a thick underlay and then it still would be quite 'giving' I think. And most other people I have noticied have gone the way of wood.

So I decided on wood!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,116 Posts
Template for a plywood floor would be a huge time saver

P.P.S I will be producing fab drawings for the above suitable for construction from any joiner or carpenter. If anyone is interested I'm more than happy to post as well.

Or if anyone wants anything drafted or designed, if its interesting enough I'll give it a crack as I'm always keen to get practice with challenging drafting. I never get enough of it in my day job. I have access to all software known to man.

Hi Dave,

Great thread.

I'm planning a very similar drawer layout to yours. It will consist of a general storage drawer and a pull out kitchen box side by side. I'm going to build a kitchen similar to one of those Drifta type that will come out completely and be free standing. For the drawer I'm considering a slider drawer as the runners are expensive and i'd prefer to put their cost into a dropdown fridge slide.

For my set up, i will remove the rear 3rd row seats, and all fixings and child restraint points. Then i will start with a 12mm plywood floor bolted in place using the 3rd row seat bolt positions. If you have the dimensions of a plywood floor that fits between the side linings, the doors and the 2nd row seats, (similar to yourfirst post pic), that would be a huge time saver. Especially if it had the position of the fixing bolts worked out. I have a Series IV GU. I'm not sure how you'd like to be reimbursed for your trouble as i know there is a lot of work in designing even the floor insert.

By the way have you fitted the Black Widow door mod to let the little door open wider and have you considered any sound deadening under your set up when you have the rear stripped out.

Grogey
 

·
Registered
nissan
Joined
·
54 Posts
Discussion Starter #17
How does one most effectively attach or link to PDF's? The forum size limit is 20kb's which is way too small.

I have done component fabrication drawings which I'll be sending to the carpenter/joiner for cutting on his bigger saw. So if anyone is interested, I'm trying to post them up. Also a 3D model with some highlights and the design boundaries which gives a bit more context.

any ideas on how to do get the pdfs on here?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,116 Posts
Hi,

Will the attachment paper clip not work with such large files. It should let you browse and select a file. I'm not sure how to do so if the file size is too large. Hopefully a IT guru is online.

Edit,

Ok i just tried my suggestion and 19.5KB just doesn't cut it.

Grogey
 

·
Registered
nissan
Joined
·
54 Posts
Discussion Starter #19
Hi Dave,

Great thread.

I'm planning a very similar drawer layout to yours. It will consist of a general storage drawer and a pull out kitchen box side by side. I'm going to build a kitchen similar to one of those Drifta type that will come out completely and be free standing. For the drawer I'm considering a slider drawer as the runners are expensive and i'd prefer to put their cost into a dropdown fridge slide.

For my set up, i will remove the rear 3rd row seats, and all fixings and child restraint points. Then i will start with a 12mm plywood floor bolted in place using the 3rd row seat bolt positions. If you have the dimensions of a plywood floor that fits between the side linings, the doors and the 2nd row seats,that would be a huge time saver. Especially if it had the position of the fixing bolts worked out. I have a Series IV GU. I'm not sure how you'd like to be reimbursed for your trouble as i know there is a lot of work in designing even the floor insert.

By the way have you fitted the Black Widow door mod to let the little door open wider and have you considered any sound deadening under your set up when you have the rear stripped out.

Grogey
Grogey,

Cheers mate. yeh agreed on drawer runners being expensive, no idea why they are so exy, given they should be mass produced and its just a bit of crappy steel and some cheap bearings.

My drawers (the left and right hand side) are actually completely seperate units, so I could theoretically have the left or right hand drawers in by themselves. not that I would do that. So I also intend to remove all the anchor points - there are maybe 7 of them in total? I intend to put my drawers on top of the carpet - to grab the anchorpoints I will then perhaps need some custom spacers made up but I've got access to a lathe so I'm sure these could be turned up pretty simply. you could even just stack some washers and nuts together for an impromptu spacer as required. I think bolting it down on the carpet will be fine, can't see any major negatives, over time the carpet may 'relax' or 'flatten' so to speak and the bolts will require a bit more tbightening but this is nothing to fix. Also as the drawers will be sitting on the plastic sliders I won't really need to counter-bore for the bolt heads which will be neater and less likely to pull through the wood.

If you can advise how I can easily upload some larger (300 odd kb PDF's) I can post up what you are talking about pretty straightforward. It won't take bugger all time to draw from a few working points.
 

·
Registered
nissan
Joined
·
112 Posts
Hey mate I was after the behind the second row seats area so just the boot area. I can send you my email address so if you want just email the details to me. Send me what ever you want mate i should be able to work it out spent 5 years at uni learning how to read drawings so should be all sweet.

Cheers
Tim
 
  • Like
Reactions: omo
1 - 20 of 23 Posts
Top