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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I bought a redarc today and enough cable,lugs,bypass switch etc to do the job.I bought it from a local auto sparks that do all the mines work.They sold me what they said I needed but when I looked at the info in the box it says that I need to put a 100amp fuse between each bat and the solenoid.

They made no mention of this and I'm just wondering if it's essential and why?

It cost me about $230 and I'm fabricating and installing my own bat box,I'll throw a couple of photos up when it's done.It's to suit a 2000 GU.
 

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Not absolutely essential BUT very very highly recommended.

If you have the positive feed cable linking the batteries short to earth then it is pretty spectacular. You have to fuse either end as each battery is live to that cable if the Redarc is energised.

Do you have a winch?... if so maybe up the rating to 150 amp or even 200. The batteries will "load share" when the winch is energised so 1/2 the winch current MAY flow thru that cable (again if the Redarc is energised).
 

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The fuses are a good idea for the reasons Evil Twin has stated, I used 60Amp fuses when I installed my Redarc.

---Bushy67---
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Thanks for the replies guys.No I don't have a winch.I wonder why they didn't mention them at the auto sparks?

ok so what sought of fuses are they and what sort of $$$ am I looking at.
 

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I purchased my 2006 GU with a dual Bty system from a dealer, but this was all set up wrong and was not charging the second Bty, so i got them to instal again, they sent it to an auto elec and he did the same thing, which was conecting both bty's to the alternator and then to the Redarc system... i then had to show the "expert" how to connect it all up. (see pic)... at least then you can be sure that all is working well and it will not let you down.

I also got them to put in higher rated fuses and i have had no problems at all... what i also did was attach a seperate fuse box to the second bty so that i have a central area for all my acc power, this also has worked very well... the last thing to do is setup the secondary start button on the redarc system for when my main Bty is dead I can start from my second Bty.

On one of the pictures you will notice that i have used the space under the fuse box to mount my ARB compressor, this works very well and is well protected, and being close to the Bty means that the power supply wire is "very" short, this also allows me to mount a third bty next to this and the firewall (still to be done) Mick
 

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Just a minor thing but when you are all done installing the Redarc system, put a bit of silicone inside the two protective caps on the top of the redarc. this will ensure that they stay on and are protected from sparking... just a small thing but does help...
 

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Hey Guys just installed a Redarc Dual battery isolator to help run all my gizmos and gadgets. Previously i had been just running a 70A relay and i could not keep up.

SO here are all the bits and peices you will need, bar battery and tray.


1. Mount the Smart Start SBI in a convenient location near the start battery bank. Do not mount in direct engine heat.


2.
Its recommend installing a fuse close to and connected to the positive terminal of both batteries. Refer to the chart below for suggested
ratings.



3.
Connect one end of cable of the correct size to the start battery terminal of the Smart Start SBI. Refer to the chart below for suggested cable size.


4.
Connect the opposite end of the cable installed in step #3 to the other end of the start battery positive (+) fuse. 5.
Connect one end of a new cable of correct size to the auxiliary battery terminal of the Smart Start SBI.

6.
Connect the opposite end of the cable installed in step #5 to the other end of the auxiliary battery positive (+) fuse.

7.
Make sure the auxiliary battery is properly grounded to the vehicle chassis.

8.
Ground Connection. Connect the Smart Start SBI ground terminal to chassis ground. Remove any paint to ensure a good ground connection. Note: A good ground will ensure correct switching voltage.

9.
LED Connections (optional). We suggest installing an external LED indicator on the dashboard of the vehicle. Connect a wire from the “Override” terminal of the Smart Start® SBI to the positive end of an indicator LED (15mA limited current draw) or LED/resistor combina- tion as specified in diagram See Standard Setup Below. Note: a resistor must be used if “Override” switch is connected. Connect the negative end of the LED to the chassis ground. This lamp will illuminate when the Smart Start SBI is activated.



10.
Start Assist Feature (optional). We suggest installing the emergency start switch on the dashboard of the vehicle. Connect a wire from the “Override” terminal of the Smart Start SBI to a momentary push button switch. Connect the opposite end of the switch to the auxiliary battery supply. It is recommended to fuse this wire. To manually operate the Smart Start SBI, hold the switch and the Smart Start SBI will manually operate until the switch is released.






11.
Checking the Operation: The Smart Start® SBI should now be operational. Start the vehicle or apply a charge to the main battery. Once the main battery voltage rises the Smart Start SBI will activate, you will hear the solenoid click and see the LED illuminate. Now turn off the vehicle or remove the charge to the main battery. The Smart Start SBI will disconnect the auxiliary battery once the voltage on the main battery drops, you will hear the solenoid click and the LED will go out. Note: The amount of time it takes for the battery voltage to drop low enough for the sole- noid to turn off will vary due to battery condition, age and state of charge.


Hope this helps you dude
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
thanks guys for the photos it's interesting to see how you have set things up.Setting it up isn't my problem it was mainly the fuse issue because I didn't realise I had to put 2x100 fuses in the mix...my fault for not reading the data properly before buying.

I like the idea of the separate fuse box for all your wires much less messy than wires and fuse holders running off the battery.

Nissan Kid I read all that in the paper work that comes with it but the photos are great,very helpfull.Just wondering why you went with what looks like blade fuses?

Also I guess not mounting in direct engine heat means dont park it near the turbo,but in 40+ heat every bloody thing is hot ....lol
 

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No worries mate, Well as you said you don't have to put them in the line but i thought.....Why not. Just for safety, If something does go wrong.

Cheers
 

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These are great, cheap and can be easily reset (say your winching and trip one).

I use these on all the install I do.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
No worries mate, Well as you said you don't have to put them in the line but i thought.....Why not. Just for safety, If something does go wrong.

Cheers

Got me wrong some where there,I'm going to put them in....what I was asking is why you used blades as opposed to CBs(was it a choice or just what was available at the time).
I went to Kal today but the best that stupid cheap had was 60 amp CBs and prewired blade holders that were wired way too light...but then they didn't have any blades above 60 amps anyway.


I had to go in anyway to get some heater hose as the new bat box interferes with the hose that runs from the over flow tanks to inlet pipes near the alternator....they at least had 3 foot hose with a 90deg bend....lol

I'll go to the auto sparks tomorrow and get what I need I think I'll also put a separate fuse box in because I can already see how usefull thats going to be.Should have it all wired by Australia day if I can get the bits tomorrow.
 

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Sorry mat I misread your question. It was really just what we had at work at the time and we had them in a 100amp so yeah. And it adds a bit of rice too :) lol
 

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good work nissan kid, i'm about to install my redarc in next few weeks, i got a price for the 12" tray from tjm = $179 and the redarc from ebay for $90.

because the unit (sbi12) is a 100amp, does this mean a max 100a/h deep cycle battery??

i'm thinking of using a 100 AH or 120 AH AGM Thumper REDBACK Battery
 

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because the unit (sbi12) is a 100amp, does this mean a max 100a/h deep cycle battery??
Nope, all that means is the sbi12 can handle 100amps continuously, but a deep cycle battery draws no where near that much, so you can comfortably run any size battery you want off it.
 

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If you aren't Winching a lot and don't have any other BIG load like a hi power inverter or such then 3rz is correct... the 100 Amp Redarc is fine and has no relevance to your battery rating.

If you do wish to winch etc then you can get 150 and 200 amp 'smart' relays to handle the higher current but they are more expensive (esp the 200 amp jobbies).
 
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