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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Hello,

Just purchased one of these gauges (http://www.redarc.com.au/products/product/monitoring-gauges_g52-pwt/) and not sure where to install the sensors on a GU 4.2TDi.
Anyone got a pic of where both of these sensors get installed?

At the moment i have them run through to the engine bay rolled up and cable tied out the way.

Cheers
Bruce
 

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GQ Dual Cab. TD42Ti with fruit.
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I am not an expert on the TD42T, but the TD42 has coolant sensors in the thermostat housing, one for the factory temp gauge and one for the glow plugs. My housing had room for me to tap a thread and install the third sensor for my Autometer gauge.

As for the oil pressure, I would use an adaptor to fit it to the factory oil sender on the oil filter housing. Use a T piece so both the new gauge and the factory oil light still work.
 

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Hello,

Just purchased one of these gauges (http://www.redarc.com.roducts/product/monitoring-gauges_g52-pwt/) and not sure where to install the sensors on a GU 4.2TDi.
Anyone got a pic of where both of these sensors get installed?

At the moment i have them run through to the engine bay rolled up and cable tied out the way.

Cheers
Bruce
OK, so your oil pressure should be 1/8 npt but did you choose 1/8 npt or 1/4 npt for your water temperature seder? I'll put some pictures up of my Install for you.where did you mount the gauge?
 

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Doing It My Way
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Ok, I fitted mine in the same place as ABM but I re taped my threads instead of using adapter fittings. The
hex head bung that abm want to war with, lol, is tight but there are a couple of things you can do.
1: make sure you have the right size Alan key before you apply any pressure, a hex drive on a ratchet works even better.
2: spray with a penotrating oil even days before hand helps.
3: the most important step is to have your engine block warm before you start. I do this before I remove anything that may get nasty, ie injectors, glow plugs, manifold bolts ect.

not sure what size coolant sender you have chosen? I used 1/4npt so I just ran a 1/4npt tap straight through the m12 thread checking regularly for the correct tapper fit.

And the same for the oil sender only using a 1/8 npt tap. Just remember when hot tapping plant or machinery in situ always half fill the tap grooves with grease ,as this will catch the metal that you are removing
 

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Even though you have fitted them already, might help other people.

In your second photo, the therostat housing has that rubber covered bung which can be removed and used to fit the sensor; fitted mine there.

If you want you can swap the factory sensor to this location and then use the factory hole so you get a reading before the thermostat.

Another option for the oil pressure probe is to buy a sandwhich adapter plater for the oil filter housing.

I bought my gauges when they were autron and had to get the oil pressure reprogrammed so it would not alarm over 80psi (very annoying). I also really don't like that it alarms when you turn accessory on as it reads 0psi. Hopefully redarc ironed these issues out.

They are very bright at night so will look at what inline resistor would do the trick, dashlight dimmer works but then i cant read the dash.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Thanks for the info lads, went a 3 gauge pod pillar mounted from eBay. Did the job.
 

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Gu TD42 series 3 wgn
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Ok, I fitted mine in the same place as ABM but I re taped my threads instead of using adapter fittings. The
hex head bung that abm want to war with, lol, is tight but there are a couple of things you can do.
1: make sure you have the right size Alan key before you apply any pressure, a hex drive on a ratchet works even better.
2: spray with a penotrating oil even days before hand helps.
3: the most important step is to have your engine block warm before you start. I do this before I remove anything that may get nasty, ie injectors, glow plugs, manifold bolts ect.

not sure what size coolant sender you have chosen? I used 1/4npt so I just ran a 1/4npt tap straight through the m12 thread checking regularly for the correct tapper fit.

And the same for the oil sender only using a 1/8 npt tap. Just remember when hot tapping plant or machinery in situ always half fill the tap grooves with grease ,as this will catch the metal that you are removing
Did you have an existing hole already from a previous sender? Mine only has 2 holes there now glow plug and oem gauge.. Or did you have to drill into it first were the flat bit is besides the oem senders.. any help be appreciated as I am putting in a Redarc oil coolant gauge myself and don't like the idea of using adaptors or plugging into the radiator hose
20200603_072532.jpg
 

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Most GU's have a third port there with an M12 blank plug so in your case you don't have to worry about over tapping the original thread just drill and tap to the thread you want. Line it up like it appears in Boosted's pics above.
 
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Most GU's have a third port there with an M12 blank plug so in your case you don't have to worry about over tapping the original thread just drill and tap to the thread you want. Line it up like it appears in Boosted's pics above.
Thanks festerGu. Now to work up the courage to drill into it lol. Any tips to avoid getting any swarf in there. Or should i be removing it.
 

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I was thinking of maybe sticking a magnet down the heater hose port while drilling
Not sure that would work, the thing you are drilling being made of alloy? However I must have drilled it when it was mounted (as it is in the pic!), I think I recall vacuuming out the swarf as the hole into the head is on the side.... I could do this because the top bit wasn't on it though.
 

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Not sure that would work, the thing you are drilling being made of alloy? However I must have drilled it when it was mounted (as it is in the pic!), I think I recall vacuuming out the swarf as the hole into the head is on the side.... I could do this because the top bit wasn't on it though.
Yes very true. Magnet wont work with alloy. Had a blonde moment lol
 
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