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whats your thoughts on running just air in them. got a trip this weekend and wont be finished tuning so thinking of just leaving air in them for now.
Here is my finished shock reloader. Total cost 195 bucks. Air will be fine short term but may struggle if they get hot.


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running nitrogen though or argon
Argon. Can get nitrogen easy enough. But a small bottle of argon is only 40 bucks

You can run just about any compressed gas due to moisture removal. Only no no is CO.
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jeez if thats the case ill just hook it up to the mig reg i got at home and use argon that i have for the tig. can do it for basically free. already have a tyre inflator. needle for the src shocks and a couple of different regs. happy days.
 
jeez if thats the case ill just hook it up to the mig reg i got at home and use argon that i have for the tig. can do it for basically free. already have a tyre inflator. needle for the src shocks and a couple of different regs. happy days.
Yep. Happy days!! Good luck bloke. Can you get your mig reg high enough??

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Discussion starter · #88 ·
Air should be ok for a road trip, unless you are going to make them work hard. That is my understanding anyway.

I have not decided on what to do about gas yet. When I have finished tinkering I will see how much it will cost to pay to get it done.
 
Here is my finished shock reloader. Total cost 195 bucks. Air will be fine short term but may struggle if they get hot.


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Have you tried that setup yet? usually you need a no loss chuck, other wise at 150+ psi half your gas comes out when you remove chuck. Superior sell them I think there only about $50.

jim
 
Have you tried that setup yet? usually you need a no loss chuck, other wise at 150+ psi half your gas comes out when you remove chuck. Superior sell them I think there only about $50.



jim
Yep used. No problem. 200psi isn't an issue. Quick release chuck is ok. If it was a screw on schrader fitting then it would be terrible.

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So while on the subject of gas, I know the gas is to pressurise the oil to prevent oil foaming / cavitation, but what effect does more or less pressure have on the way the shock performs in regards to rebound / compression and therefore comfort / handling ? I’ve got 2.5” Kings which are around 18 months and old and am wondering if it’s worth checking their pressures before I go away next month ?
 
So while on the subject of gas, I know the gas is to pressurise the oil to prevent oil foaming / cavitation, but what effect does more or less pressure have on the way the shock performs in regards to rebound / compression and therefore comfort / handling ? I’ve got 2.5” Kings which are around 18 months and old and am wondering if it’s worth checking their pressures before I go away next month ?
I would check for sure

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Discussion starter · #94 ·
My understanding is that more pressure will increase the compression damping a small amount. During my testing I varied it between 100, 80, and then atmo, and noticed no difference on a short road test. Superior Engineering advised me that it is only a small effect.

However, if you go below 100 psi then you will get problems, so you would need to be in that ballpark. I recall that 120psi is about the minimum they use.
 
Discussion starter · #95 ·
So my Easter break gave me many hours of testing on my trip, with lots of changes of the adjusters, and fiddling around. I had some gear on for the trip, but not heaps, just a moderate amount. Full fridge on a slide, camping gear, clothes, and some hunting gear. If you had a wagon it would be a load. Nothing on the roof rack.

I had been running around empty with the adjusters on 3, and on the trip I ended up at 4 on both ends. With the extra weight on, it made virtually no difference to how the vehicle handled or managed bumps. Which is good.

So, small bumps are pretty good, and anything more is still too rough, so same as before. The extra weight did not effect it. My prime suspect is that rear compression stack, that I was not happy with. It is soft at the start, but then has a number of shims one size apart. I think the increase in damping rate is too high, so need to try another option. I am thinking about a two stage flutter set-up, which I have not tried at any stage, to soften up the higher speed damping.
 
So my Easter break gave me many hours of testing on my trip, with lots of changes of the adjusters, and fiddling around. I had some gear on for the trip, but not heaps, just a moderate amount. Full fridge on a slide, camping gear, clothes, and some hunting gear. If you had a wagon it would be a load. Nothing on the roof rack.



I had been running around empty with the adjusters on 3, and on the trip I ended up at 4 on both ends. With the extra weight on, it made virtually no difference to how the vehicle handled or managed bumps. Which is good.



So, small bumps are pretty good, and anything more is still too rough, so same as before. The extra weight did not effect it. My prime suspect is that rear compression stack, that I was not happy with. It is soft at the start, but then has a number of shims one size apart. I think the increase in damping rate is too high, so need to try another option. I am thinking about a two stage flutter set-up, which I have not tried at any stage, to soften up the higher speed damping.


Hardly seems worth the hassle . More time worrying about the shocks than enjoying yourself and the trip .
 
Discussion starter · #98 ·
More testing today. Started with my data, and some standard shim stack specs from Superior, and did some thinking. Like Oldmav would do, but without the brains. :rolleyes:

My theory was that the rear shocks compression was soft initially, and then increased at too high a rate. So it was soft initially on small bumps, but slighter bigger bumps were not absorbed. Also, in my figuring was why with previous testing I had always ended up on no 3 compression setting, which I could not replicate with shims.

The shim stack was previously this - 36.5, 20, 24, 22, 19, 16. So it has the 20mm flutter to soften the deflection of the 36.5mm shim. But after that it goes to a series of small shims close together in size, with a large gap in between, size wise anyway.

Previous testing with larger shims in the mid stack had failed, so I figured I would vary my use of the flutter shims to try and get a different result. To try and overcome the continued use of no 3 compression setting, I tried a larger flutter, being a 22mm instead of the 20mm. Where the larger mid stack shims had failed on their own, I tried one with a 20mm flutter behind it. So the stack I tried was this - 36.5, 22, 28, 20, 24, 19, 16.

Testing showed this to work even better on small bumps, on comp setting no 1, and then much improved on larger stuff too. Win. :cool:

So now I need a couple of tweaks to the front shocks, as I think rebound is a bit low due to the wallowing, which is a bit much for my liking. So I will adjust that and see where I end up.
 
Discussion starter · #99 ·
When I was testing this last setting, I was thinking about what the suspension was doing, and looking for anything it did not handle well. And after driving around for about 20 minutes, I could not think of anything. So the rear must be close.
 
i, like you with the bit of playing with my front shocks so far. is that ive only really messed around with flutter shim size and really the first and maybe second shim above that. and whilst small bumps is good. medium speed movement is still harsh and then fairly good thru high speed stuff. my 1 shim change in rebound improved small speed chop a hell of a lot but it does feel like its not quite right maybe a touch to soft. But after taking almost 2 hours last time to get the nut back on the top of the shock on 1 side im reluctant to do it again haha. its heaps better than what it was but still needs a bit more work. then ill attack the rear but its fairly good already really. i think maybe slow speed rebound is a little stiff. but otherwise not to bad.
its been fun tinkering with them thats for sure.
 
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