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nissan
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello All,

Just wondering if anyone has had a go at repairing the stock intercooler?
Mine has always shown oil seepage, and now I can hear gas escaping while revving the engine.
Would it work to just nip up the bent over tabs a bit with a vice-grips set to just give a bit more pressure to the seal? Or even to take the whole thing apart, clean, and put it back together using silicon sealant on the gasket.

I'm aware of the aftermarket ICs but I have a budget, and I want to spend this on tires and suspension.

The stock IC seems adequate for where I live, a HOT day is 30°. The ambient temperature in summer is normally between 18° and 25°.

Any ideas?
 

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Areldite, I have used it to seal the aluminium radiator on my Dirt bike, 5 years later still good as gold.

try to pick the hole open a bit and get some areldite in it, then crimp it over with a small piece of aluminium, then encapsulate the whole lot.

other products like devcon or metal putty will work as well.
 

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Yeah I saw some radiator repair putty stuff at supercheap for aluminium. You mix the 2 putty parts together and then press it in. I haven't used it but it looked ok.
It might get you out of trouble until you come across a new IC or have yours welded up (ebay also has exchange units).

Good luck, and let us know which way you decide to go, and your findings :)
 

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Y2KGUII ZD Wgn
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49,561 Posts
Hello All,

Just wondering if anyone has had a go at repairing the stock intercooler?
Mine has always shown oil seepage, and now I can hear gas escaping while revving the engine.
Would it work to just nip up the bent over tabs a bit with a vice-grips set to just give a bit more pressure to the seal? Or even to take the whole thing apart, clean, and put it back together using silicon sealant on the gasket.

I'm aware of the aftermarket ICs but I have a budget, and I want to spend this on tires and suspension.

The stock IC seems adequate for where I live, a HOT day is 30°. The ambient temperature in summer is normally between 18° and 25°.

Any ideas?
If you were to go to the trouble of pulling it apart just get a smart operator to TIG it back together and no more problems.

Otherwise Devcon have a specific compound for just about every metal and it's tough as nails and machinable. I've used it a lot in my engineering past, even filling up the std inlet ports on a rotary engine to go peripheral ported and that is demanding.

EDIT: http://www.devcon.com/products/products.cfm?brand=Devcon&family=Aluminum Putty (F)
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Well I had a go at repairing or improving my stock intercooler.
I removed the intercooler and went around the joints squeezing the tabs with a vice-grips.
I started off with small adjustment, but ended up taking bigger bites at the end. After all was crimped down tight, I checked the gap on the vise-grips and found that 8.2mm was the ending gap. So the tabs are now compressed down to 8.2mm. I did not check the starting measure.
I had hoped to pressure test the intercooler, but this proved to difficult and was abandoned.
Anyway, no harm done, and hopefully the intercooler performs a bit better.

Cheers,
B&B
 

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Y2KGUII ZD Wgn
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Well done, hopefully you caught it before any serious tracking at the leakage points had occurred, being mass produced the base clamping measurement would fall within a very narrow margin so if you have compressed it to 8.2mm someone else trying it could get a starting point, again, well done, a nice bit of lateral thinking.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Now that I've been driving it for a day, there is no oil showing on the top of the intercooler.
There was a "Hooning" noise that is now absent.
For anyone on a budget, I recommend that they try this. It takes less than two hours and requires only basic tools.
The radiator is put together using the same process, and it holds pressure.

Cheers,
B&B
 
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