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GUII ZD30DI Wgn
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So I swapped back to the VacSol but left the Tillix in the system.
Driveability, I would say has improved. EGT seems lower too.

Haven't had a chance to test on the highway yet.
I have noticed a little bit of boost needle bounce around 60ish in 4th gear though?
If your solenoid has been out of action for a while it could very well have a few sticky points, these should even even out, when I first brought mine back on line I gave it a dose of wd40 and then flicked it out.
 

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If your solenoid has been out of action for a while it could very well have a few sticky points, these should even even out, when I first brought mine back on line I gave it a dose of wd40 and then flicked it out.
I'll give it a little bit and see how it goes. Thanks for the replies
 

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You are far better off using standard boost control anyway,i have tried them all along the way and just prefer the standard set up.Far nicer and better to drive when set up as it should be.
A good quality welded intercooler and decent piping/clamps is all you need. Just my opinion on it and sure each to their own. If we all had the same opinions the world would be a very strange place lol :)
 
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I'm considering changing my boost control setup after reading a couple threads.

Vehicle is a 2009 CRD manual tuned by ECPT (Brendan) who installed tillix and needle at 21psi max. Also have full NADS, intake mods, EGR block, FMIC, 3" exhaust. Standard turbo and no desire to change it. Happy with my power/torque/economy/EGT but I hate the way it sits on 19psi on a flat cruise highway.

Will removing the needle and reconnecting the Vacsol give me lower cruising boost?
I think the answer should be yes. I will test soon.

Other options were to run the needle into the cab for "on the fly" adjustments (annoying), or the tillix + two needle setup (complex!)

Cheers
 

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Hi Jack, My experience running 08CRD with ECPT remap (Harley), using Tillix in conjunction with VNT vacsol provides for a good run with slightly lower cruise boost than using only manual boost control (max spool) with near same EGTs.
Harley's live tune was with full manual boost control(Tillix/needle) and 12 months later was checked by Brendon (ECPT) with Tillix only in conjunction with VNT vacsol _ No change was done to the tune (I remain to question this though as I had installed a FMIC as well between the two dyno runs-they were busy that day).

High cruise boost with manual boost control was always my concern as well, did improve a bit when first upgraded induction (being less restrictive), but was still around 18-20 w/slightest eng load applied (cruise was 14-16psi <50% eng load). Have gained improvement with induction/cooler mods

I am pretty close to finding the most suitable for my setup. Have tried most manual boost control methods (using both Tillix and Dawes_3Bar Racing), with and without Vacsol and also trialed the Dawes/Tillix + two needle valve setup. Have now started recording comparative live data with an app_Android using bluetooth comms via the Bluedriver sensor connected to the OBD2 port. Will post up some comparative live data soon.

My best setup to date is using a Dawes (set at 5psi) + 1 bleed needle downstream (adjusted to provide max boost 25psi_with bleed needle) in conjunction with the VNT Vac Sol. The EGTs appear to be good with a cruise boost 12-14psi. Also found that Dawes is performing slightly better than Tillix with the one bleed needle (downstream of boost controller) with vacsol. I put this down to different spring rates (Tillix/Dawes) are different and maybe it is the Dawes that has the lower spring rate. Tillix was still OK.

Max boost 20-22 psi works fine and this is the ECPT tune (as I recall: 20-22psi, nom AFR 22:1). Will check AFR down the track(I watch for soot).

Need to graph some more comparative live data before posting up_broke my phone glass and have just bought a new one.

John
 

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I'm considering changing my boost control setup after reading a couple threads.

Vehicle is a 2009 CRD manual tuned by ECPT (Brendan) who installed tillix and needle at 21psi max. Also have full NADS, intake mods, EGR block, FMIC, 3" exhaust. Standard turbo and no desire to change it. Happy with my power/torque/economy/EGT but I hate the way it sits on 19psi on a flat cruise highway.

Will removing the needle and reconnecting the Vacsol give me lower cruising boost?
I think the answer should be yes. I will test soon.

Other options were to run the needle into the cab for "on the fly" adjustments (annoying), or the tillix + two needle setup (complex!)

Cheers
Try it using the Dawes as a limiting device. I have much lower cruise boost with the vacsol. Like Richie around 10psi at 100km/h and around 16psi at 130. My max should be around 26 but it's been pegging 30 under load with the duration chip back in (I wanted more fuel than the mail order tune gave me).

Would NOT go back to Dawes and needle.
 

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Try it using the Dawes as a limiting device. I have much lower cruise boost with the vacsol. Like Richie around 10psi at 100km/h and around 16psi at 130. My max should be around 26 but it's been pegging 30 under load with the duration chip back in (I wanted more fuel than the mail order tune gave me).

Would NOT go back to Dawes and needle.
mmmm Pegging 30 psi (vacsol / Dawes adjusted max 26) _ do you mean it is a gauge bounce reading to 30psi momentarily with a fast spool up or as mine sometime does, runs thru to 30psi(w/fast spool up loaded) especially when engine is cold / first 5 ks? Running boost controller with vacsol as well.
 

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When I had my Patrol , I was testing various AGM Batteries under the bonnet as I worked in Technical sales for a battery company. Part of this task was to monitor battery temperatures.
After fitting the Tillix and running at higher highway boost than standard, I found my battery temperature also increased. I was about to return the boost to standard when the opportunity came to upgrade and sell it.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
 

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@jackbyo
I read here lots of guys saying the vacsol works best for them, but for me, using the vacsol to control boost is like pulling off all the performance mods I've done so far. It drives like a drunk lazy dog. Just doesnt work at all. I know I'm not the only person this happens to.......

So, my advice is to try out all your options and choose the one that works for you. I'll be testing out the 2 needle option soon to see if I can pull down my cruising boost. Like you, I dont like it sitting so high at cruise.

Let us know how you go 😊

Cheers
 
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NISSAN PATROL Y61 3.0 Di (ZD30) 09/2000
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to give its best, a VNT cannot have its vanes kept closed until max boost is reached (dawes/needle or Tillix/Needle).
Écu software does open vanes depending upon load/rpm but is tuned for EGR+swirl operation and stock configuration (inlet, exhaust). Once you have applied mods, only an adapted electronic control (hw+sw) can provide the optimum setting with the right opening of the vanes at all times, max spool up, best cruise boost level ... etc.
if you don’t do that, i agree you have to test the different arrangements and keep the one that best suits your driving and Patrol configuration.
may be keeping the ÉCU vacsol control and complementing the right way with several valves could bring you closer to what you should have.
But you will not be able to suppress the effect of the ÉCU opening the vanes a bit when closing the EGR. But at least you would have your vanes moving unlike what you have with a dawes+needle.
 

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GUII ZD30DI Wgn
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@jackbyo
I read here lots of guys saying the vacsol works best for them, but for me, using the vacsol to control boost is like pulling off all the performance mods I've done so far. It drives like a drunk lazy dog. Just doesnt work at all. I know I'm not the only person this happens to.......

So, my advice is to try out all your options and choose the one that works for you. I'll be testing out the 2 needle option soon to see if I can pull down my cruising boost. Like you, I dont like it sitting so high at cruise.

Let us know how you go 😊

Cheers
That is strange, most of the guy's that followed this, especially for the CRD, had great success. Even on my DI when I first tried it after the remap (which lead Richie-Rich to try it here), it worked a treat except for the speedy blip in boost while cruising in excess of 100k in 5th gear (DI thing explained in another thread).
 

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09 ZD30 CRD Wagon
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considering I had my remap done after the Tillix kit installed, would I have any dramas switching back to vacsol?

I was thinking of getting back on the dyno just for another mini tune anyway since I have done my intercooler and soon my airbox. Perhaps I should have the vacsol reconnected before then
 

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2003 ZD30 Di Patrol (The rare Gold one)
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considering I had my remap done after the Tillix kit installed, would I have any dramas switching back to vacsol?

I was thinking of getting back on the dyno just for another mini tune anyway since I have done my intercooler and soon my airbox. Perhaps I should have the vacsol reconnected before then
I can't see that being a problem. Most people get reasonable results using the factory boost controller post remap on the CRD.
 

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GUII ZD30DI Wgn
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considering I had my remap done after the Tillix kit installed, would I have any dramas switching back to vacsol?

I was thinking of getting back on the dyno just for another mini tune anyway since I have done my intercooler and soon my airbox. Perhaps I should have the vacsol reconnected before then
The Eclipse CRD pulled 180+hp with the vacsol connected.
 

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to give its best, a VNT cannot have its vanes kept closed until max boost is reached (dawes/needle or Tillix/Needle).
Écu software does open vanes depending upon load/rpm but is tuned for EGR+swirl operation and stock configuration (inlet, exhaust). Once you have applied mods, only an adapted electronic control (hw+sw) can provide the optimum setting with the right opening of the vanes at all times, max spool up, best cruise boost level ... etc.
if you don’t do that, i agree you have to test the different arrangements and keep the one that best suits your driving and Patrol configuration.
may be keeping the ÉCU vacsol control and complementing the right way with several valves could bring you closer to what you should have.
But you will not be able to suppress the effect of the ÉCU opening the vanes a bit when closing the EGR. But at least you would have your vanes moving unlike what you have with a dawes+needle.
Once again. Not even close to correct. You wouldn't know what the best is because you have never seen even close to best. I'd say very few people in Europe have for that matter.(Actually they don't unless they have been shopping in Australia) You have certainly not come close to having your engine correctly tuned.
As for "Once you have applied mods, only an adapted electronic control (hw+sw) can provide the optimum setting with the right opening of the vanes at all times". You don't know what is ideal because you do not have the ability to monitor it accurately. You guess you do but that is as close as you can get.
We have the ability to tune the ECU to adjust the veins to suit any condition we want. It doesn't matter what mods you have. The ECU can be relatively easily tuned to suit. Even on a Di.
EGR is irrelevant to Jackbyo and most of us as the ECU is tuned so it doesn't operate during normal conditions. He won't get the fuel reduction that you do either.can disable it easy enough without a remap too.
 

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CRD NADS Remap_ disabled swirl, H/F turbo with induction upgrade works.

I have lately been getting this sudden drop (1-2 psi) in boost and the associated MAF(@ same point/nom 2500rpm) on fast spool up / WOT near the max B set point _ max boost relative test range 20 thru to 25psi. This is occurring running either Tillix with and without needle valve as well as Tillix or Dawes with vacsol.

Welcome any comments.

Also doing same when running dawes @ 5psi+bleed needle downstream(max boost relative nom 22psi) with the vacsol.

Did some live data capture tonight, as it is really getting to me, you can see the dip/rise occurr (@ nom 2500rpm). Not sure when this started to occur, do not think it is from changing pod filter alignment in box but yet to check that out(turbulence?).

I have put up only two graphs ((shown relative boost(gauge) for the presentation purposes here)):
Note: the boost is clipped 23psi as this is upper limit of display(annoying actually)/ECU limiting.

First Graph _ Tillix and Needle valve(lever just hitting stop (note: sudden boost and MAF drop @ nom 2500rpm then rises OK again (3rd - 4th gear change) . Note is typical of all boost control methods tested except for only vacsol boost control_this was good

520733



Second_Vacsol boost control only_obtained a good result for Boost and MAF(did not capture thru gear change but was boost was fine viewing the onboard VDO gauge).

520734


Vacsol only, would boost to 30psi max but smooth as, no spike/blips, cruised nicely as well / stable. Will leave it as factory vacsol and see how goes, getting a little high on max boost for my liking (turbo can produce it), eng doing well, just hold back on the higher end boost (VDO reads max 30psi).
 

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if at any point in time, vanes are too open, you get a drop in pressure. if they are too closed, you get a peak. as simple as that.
Écu and Vacsol can only do and deliver what they were programmed to do.

ECU + Vacsol keep the vanes closed to allow for the turbo to spin, and then open the vanes progressively. If you have mods on your Patrol, (3" exhaust, modified inlet, new Turbo), the maps/laws followed are no longer adapted. In your case vanes are not opened quick enough, and therefore the boost gets too high. But the continuous opening of the vanes creates no 'hole'

If you want to decrease the max boost you get in that configuration just a bit, in your particular case, you would need to decrease a bit the vacuum so that your turbo vanes get to be more opened at higher revs.

You have one solution, which is - in addition to the vacsol-ECU - to inject some positive flow in the actuator hosen, and therefore put a dawes + needle behind, almost closed, and set-up the dawes so that it opens once you have already reached quite a high boost ( to be tested, but probably 16 to 20 psi ). The main issue being that when it opens, you will have a sudden decrease of the vacuum and the vanes will open in one go. The needle behind will have to be almost closed so that the drop remains 'small', but open widely enough to get the effect you are looking for. Hope it helps.

This will be my very last post on this forum. I’ll just answer PMs from now on.

Stay well.
 

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That is strange, most of the guy's that followed this, especially for the CRD, had great success. Even on my DI when I first tried it after the remap (which lead Richie-Rich to try it here), it worked a treat except for the speedy blip in boost while cruising in excess of 100k in 5th gear (DI thing explained in another thread).
Maybe I'm the exception that proves the rule?? I dont know 😔. I did leave the vacsol connected over a couple of days but it was soooooooo frustrating to drive. Its was an absolute pleasure to drive again once I reinstated the manual boost control.

I originally thought that maybe it was something only the most clever tuners got right (like Harley) but I have seen an email from him declaring he has more crd's needing manual boost control after tuning than those that can continue to use the vacsol successfully. This has also been confirmed from another tuner aswell.
So it seems this forum has a skewed view on the success of the vacsol after tuning, probably because those people happily post up their results while the rest of us sulk in the corner🤔
Anyways I just want to reassure all those guys and girls that cant successfully continue to run the OEM vacsol that there are plenty of others out there in the same boat and that they are not 'lone rangers' in this quest. It's not something they did in setting up their vehicle or something their choice of tuner couldn't get right.
 
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