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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
hi, just looking for ideas on rock sliders/side steps/scrub bars for gu cab chassis, i am not an extreme four wheel driver but looking for something strong and reliable, would even buy straight from the shop if a reasonable price, reasonable tradesman, wouldn't mind having a crack at making my own, any ideas or sites to look at appreciated. thanks
 

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I haven't designed gu ones yet, and kinda on hiatus for time being till new house built and oi have a closed garage to work instead of an open carport.
Thanks for the mention mungrel though
 

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I had a look good at XLR8s work a few weekends ago and have to say they are bloody strong but still neat and reasonably priced.
My ARB side bars, only 6 years and have rusted out from the inside so are due to go to the scrap recycling any day now.
 

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Built my own 40nb pipe 3.2mm wall they take full weight of ute against trees and rocks, they're more slider step combo with scrub bar main tube all one piece bent to suit, brackets like most are clamped around chassis with bolts at top to do clamping
 
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LED ZEPPELIN
1995 GQ TD42 NA
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Moved to 'Body & Paint'

DIY is to show what you've done, not talk about what you want to do.

Edit: whoops, missed the advertising post, rule of thumb around here is that if a vendor is selling a product or service, no competing advertisements are allowed (fair enough, vendors pay to advertise here).
 

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Squalo,
there must be a difference betwen advertising (I did not see that in this thread) and us recommending gear or a supplier that we are thinking of using or have used?
 

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Built my own 40nb pipe 3.2mm wall they take full weight of ute against trees and rocks, they're more slider step combo with scrub bar main tube all one piece bent to suit, brackets like most are clamped around chassis with bolts at top to do clamping
That is the sort of thing I am looking at doing, all one piece rather than a join that gets rusty like the ARB bars.

I have also found some reasonably priced 304 stainless 40nb 3.7mm wall tubing that should stop the rust issue and be heavy enough if you 3.2mm is strong enough.
 

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LED ZEPPELIN
1995 GQ TD42 NA
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Squalo,
there must be a difference betwen advertising (I did not see that in this thread) and us recommending gear or a supplier that we are thinking of using or have used?
Geordie, yep there is that difference. The post removed was from a member who builds and sells sliders - good luck to him, but it is direct competition to forum vendors, so not on. Recommending someone is a bit different; it's not something our vendors would see as directly targeting their market, which is what non-vendor advertising does.
 
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That is the sort of thing I am looking at doing, all one piece rather than a join that gets rusty like the ARB bars.

I have also found some reasonably priced 304 stainless 40nb 3.7mm wall tubing that should stop the rust issue and be heavy enough if you 3.2mm is strong enough.
Not sure on strength of stainless to mild I believe it work hardens, not sure bending in a bow and arrow type bender would produce a good result in stainless, sure would be nice bar work though:D
 

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LED ZEPPELIN
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The post removed was from a member who builds and sells sliders - good luck to him, but it is direct competition to forum vendors, so not on.
I should add - there's nothing to stop the member in question from directly liasing with other members (i.e. via PM). Just no advertising, is the rule.
 

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Not sure on strength of stainless to mild I believe it work hardens, not sure bending in a bow and arrow type bender would produce a good result in stainless, sure would be nice bar work though:D
From discussions with the supplier, it is stronger than mild in that it resists deformation more. It does work harden from drilling with blunt bitts but not apparently from the heat.

Bends I am having done by mandrel bend about $150 for all the bends on each side scrub rail and side step. I will cost up the whole thing and see if it is worth the extra or not.

The last set cost me for painting and I still scratched the paint off them prety quick, the next set if mild steel would cost for painting or powder coating again so stainless saves me quite a bit. I am only planning stainless on the scrub rail and outer tube of the step, the rest can be heavy wall steel and black underbody paint (the rest of my underbody is well stripped of paint by the gravel stones but easy enough to touch up).

When the stainless gets scratched I can just clean it with a bit of sandpaper or a pot scourer.
 

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I haven't designed gu ones yet, and kinda on hiatus for time being till new house built and oi have a closed garage to work instead of an open carport.
Thanks for the mention mungrel though
I am Melbourne based and do the same.....out of a garage...I do have GU ones...
 

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From discussions with the supplier, it is stronger than mild in that it resists deformation more. It does work harden from drilling with blunt bitts but not apparently from the heat.
it will bend and all that no worrys, the heat wont bother it.
It will still rust though, not like mild steel but it does still rust.

The work hardening issue would most likely be an issue around the the welds where the brackets are attached, (or any area that may flex in use) the flexing MAY harden it and result in cracking.

i think it will be fine unless you are doing heavy work on them often.
 

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hi, just looking for ideas on rock sliders/side steps/scrub bars for gu cab chassis, i am not an extreme four wheel driver but looking for something strong and reliable, would even buy straight from the shop if a reasonable price, reasonable tradesman, wouldn't mind having a crack at making my own, any ideas or sites to look at appreciated. thanks
Sliders are probably the easiest bar work to make so if you wanted to have a go at making stuff then they're a good place to start.
 

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I had a look good at XLR8s work a few weekends ago and have to say they are bloody strong but still neat and reasonably priced.
My ARB side bars, only 6 years and have rusted out from the inside so are due to go to the scrap recycling any day now.
Hey Geordie
So XLR8's sliders are from $595 and look good yer?
What about Hayfabs GU sliders for $660?
Anyone feel free to recommend via PM as I am also in the market for a set.
Trying to keep it to the Western side of aus for cheaper freight(Broome WA)

Cheers:cheers:

SAW Troll
Scotty
 

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Hey Geordie
So XLR8's sliders are from $595 and look good yer?
What about Hayfabs GU sliders for $660?
Anyone feel free to recommend via PM as I am also in the market for a set.
Trying to keep it to the Western side of aus for cheaper freight(Broome WA)

Cheers:cheers:

SAW Troll
Scotty
XLR8 does quality work, highly recommended.

From what I've seen/heard you'd be smart to stay away from Hayfab,, poor quality work and bad design.
 

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XLR8 does quality work, highly recommended.

From what I've seen/heard you'd be smart to stay away from Hayfab,, poor quality work and bad design.
Cheers for the info Steel your a bloody champ. Guess I know where my hard earned is going then.

SAW Troll
Scotty
 
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