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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey Guys
the rust in my rear Drivers side gutter is gettin worse and worse, so in the next week or two i am going to start fixing it up. now the plan is the remove as much of the rust as possible then spray the inside of the roof with fish oil or somthing similar(sugestions)
i also want o use a marine grade primer over the cleaned off rust. heres the thing do i bother plating it all up with the risk it may start again, or use a fibreglass/metal base filler for a faster Fix. ive done a bit of body work over the last few years and i have seen some pretty good jobs that have lasted with fibreglass/bog what ever you want to call it.

if anyone out there has done this job could you show me your results, mabye after a couple of years of it being done, how well has it coped, has the rust come, back and what you did to get the result you have.

cheers kyle
 

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GU8 CRD
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Hey mate, I'm just going down this path myself and I even had a thread on here about a week ago for some holes around my windscreen. From what I have gathered from various sources, you need to ensure that every last bit of rust is removed from the affected area. The problem at the gutter is that all the metal meets at the join, so it will be chock full of rust in behind there. It has been suggested that sandblasting is the best way to clean out the rust although it would be messy. I think rust converter should work also.

For a biggish patch I would definitely weld it if possible, especially near the gutter as I think the gutter shape would make it tricky to get a reliable bond where it changes direction 90 degrees and when you see it, you will see that it will just want to hold moisture in behind it if it is closed up with filler.

Fish oil should be good to squirt up behind there after the repair although I would use Tectyl 506 just for the smell factor
 

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nissan gq
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Sandblasting,cutting,welding ect
Its all big cost territory
Ive got an old truck here that the roof both sides were done with fibreglass
Matt first jammed in everywhere,then chopped strand ground down then finished to shape with bog
It was done near 7 years ago,painted at same time
Has been sitting in the weather for the last 5 years
And you still cant tell it was done
No lifting,rusty water lines ,not even paint lifting
Do the job properly and itll last ages
Roofs and windscrren area are an absolute pain
 

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I have repaired gutters before with metal and it's very very difficult and fiddly. Cutting the rust out and welding in the piece is hard enough but trying to finish it off so it doesn't look like it's been repaired takes a lot of time and delicate grinding.

With any kind of rust repairs correctly treating and or removing the rust is the first step but to ensure it's a lasting repair you need lots and lots of fish oil thorought the entire area and reapplied as well.

Cheers

Justin
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
cheers for your input Guys, MQ MAD im not sure i understood your reply. are you saying yours was fixed with fibreglass and it still in good shape?
 

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Yeah fixed with fibreglass
Fibreglass matt first,wet the fibreglass with catalyst and resin
And was poked right up inside the roof
When that dried,we filled the balance of the hole with fibreglass chopped strand
When that dried we ruffed it a bit,then bogged over the top to sand back for the finish
IF its small sections of roof gutter,me personally wouldnt be bothered goin the steel replacement
(cut out,plate,weld,blah blah)
IF it was a largish section and worth the effort,well it would have to be asessed

Fibreglass matt comes in a roll,and i buy from fibreglass specialist (not the likes of supacr*p)
 

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nissan patrol
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If it's not a big section then Gorrilla hair will do the job fine providing the rust has been removed properly. It will last as along as a plate would. The only reason bog fails is because people don't read the instructions or mix it properly. If you follow the instructions it will out last the rest of the 4wd. You need an automotive primer NOT a marine primer as one is designed for cars and one for boats.:ahah:

Once you remove as much of the rust as possable use a rust convertor over the top. Then the gorrilla hair over that. Once thats dry shape it up and then finish it off with your normal plastic filler. Then you just etch any remaining bare metal and prime and paint as normal.

Once finished then you can put your rust proofing in the roof and frame from the inside.

Cheers Mick.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
cool cheers im thinking that the way im going to Go. i its done properly theres no reason it wont last.


sutto
 

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Just curious if you or the previous owner had an Aluminium rack on the roof ? They can rust the gutters out because of the chemical reaction between the two metals when rain water runs off the rack .
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
nah im second owner the guy who had it befor me never had a roof rack on it.
its rusting on the drivers side at the back. i betting money that the cause is the dam sunroof leaking and ill be doing a number on that first. but even freinds of mine have no sunroof and still get heaps of rust from the same area.
 

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Its just the dumb half assssed design why they rust out
They rust inside out
Once you see a cross section of the roof /turret design youll see why they do this
 
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