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I’ve unfortunately got my GQ Td42 soaked in salt water up to bottom of the gear stick inside. The engine didn’t stall in the water how ever it stalled from the clutch once out, wasn’t started till I had glow plugs out and tested fuel which had no water.There’s no water in the engine but rear diff and gear box had a fair share of water. The front diff and transfer where good aswell. I’ve already completely stripped interior and all bar work/ grill off and soaked everything in a salt repelling marine chemical. My plan from here is to finish the soak and let things dry electrical wise, fill everything up with a cheap oil but rear diff. Pull rear hubs out and wash diff out with the salt repellent then kero. Fill back up with oil and drop again to make sure everything’s out. With gear box I was going to just fill and drop with oil till waters out. With front diff and engine I will drop only once as I am 100% there was no water but just to be safe. Them hopefully that everything mechanical ok. That’s my plan can anyone have any tips or ideas with the clean up especially with the chassis after it’s been soaked I am thinking a complete sand blast or acid wash then respray. With body I’m pretty confident in the chemical to remove most of the salt, the wiring hardness I think I would just replace to be safe. Any with experience before who can help I would appreciate it alot.
 

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About 2 hours in the water in total but only about 1/2 hour from bottom of the doors to 1/3 way up then I got out and it got cleaned with water with in an hour or 2 and chemical washed 24hrs after
 

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your biggest issue is electrical in the long term. If you change oils and clean and treat body and chassis all should be fine. The issue us corrosion in electrical terminals that is not quick or easy to repair.

If wiring and connectors went under water and the fuse box in the kick panel you may be fighting a losing battle.
 

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I’ve unfortunately got my GQ Td42 soaked in salt water up to bottom of the gear stick inside. The engine didn’t stall in the water how ever it stalled from the clutch once out, wasn’t started till I had glow plugs out and tested fuel which had no water.There’s no water in the engine but rear diff and gear box had a fair share of water. The front diff and transfer where good aswell. I’ve already completely stripped interior and all bar work/ grill off and soaked everything in a salt repelling marine chemical. My plan from here is to finish the soak and let things dry electrical wise, fill everything up with a cheap oil but rear diff. Pull rear hubs out and wash diff out with the salt repellent then kero. Fill back up with oil and drop again to make sure everything’s out. With gear box I was going to just fill and drop with oil till waters out. With front diff and engine I will drop only once as I am 100% there was no water but just to be safe. Them hopefully that everything mechanical ok. That’s my plan can anyone have any tips or ideas with the clean up especially with the chassis after it’s been soaked I am thinking a complete sand blast or acid wash then respray. With body I’m pretty confident in the chemical to remove most of the salt, the wiring hardness I think I would just replace to be safe. Any with experience before who can help I would appreciate it alot.
I would follow up the salt-off wash with Penetrol inside all the doors,the chassis well everywhere it got wet,Redacteur spray on all the electrical connectors,pull em apart,wash n spray,then all the relays that were submerged need a test,most should be waterproof,but--- big job but you still have the patrol,not swallowed by the sea

Cheers,G.
 

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@Adam682 mate I hope you get it sorted eventually, but I'm afraid you might be in for a tough job. Apart from electrical, my concern would be the body. There are so many nooks and crannies that the water could've got into and GQ's are not exactly known for their corrosion protection.

I have self-diagnosed OCD, so I'm not going to tell you what I would do...

Good luck. :oops:
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Thanks mate look I am already looking at replacing wiring harness but I was mostly worried about chassie and body. However she’s well soaked and washed with marine salt off and water practically through everything
 

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After your clean up is done, I would be using lanolin first. Because it is very thin it will run into every gap, hole and seam etc, much better than rustproofing in my experience. Once the lanolin has dried then you can use rustproofing over everything.
 

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I would follow up the salt-off wash with Penetrol inside all the doors,the chassis well everywhere it got wet,Redacteur spray on all the electrical connectors,pull em apart,wash n spray,then all the relays that were submerged need a test,most should be waterproof,but--- big job but you still have the patrol,not swallowed by the sea

Cheers,G.
Why would you be wanting to use pentrol on it sorry? As it’s a surface conditioner for paint?. Also what’s the Redacteur spray I can’t find it when I search it up? Thanks mate !!
 

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Why would you be wanting to use pentrol on it sorry? As it’s a surface conditioner for paint?. Also what’s the Redacteur spray I can’t find it when I search it up? Thanks mate !!
The Penetrol brand has several products,the one I was referring to is a penetrating rust stopper,Bunnings have aerosol cans,and Redacteur is a super WD40 type product also sold by Bunnings [ in the tool shop ] or you could use Ballistol on the electrics.Treated the roof cavity of two GQs with Penetrol to prevent the dreaded convertible patrol syndrome,where the turret rusts off o_O Edit spelling--Reducteur H72

Cheers,G.
 

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GUII ZD30DI Wgn
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The Penetrol brand has several products,the one I was referring to is a penetrating rust stopper,Bunnings have aerosol cans,and Redacteur is a super WD40 type product also sold by Bunnings [ in the tool shop ] or you could use Ballistol on the electrics.Treated the roof cavity of two GQs with Penetrol to prevent the dreaded convertible patrol syndrome,where the turret rusts off o_O

Cheers,G.
Why would you be wanting to use pentrol on it sorry? As it’s a surface conditioner for paint?. Also what’s the Redacteur spray I can’t find it when I search it up? Thanks mate !!
The Redacteur H-72 is a good rust treatment, but I only use it for stubborn nuts and bolts like on exhaust manifolds. Penetrol have a product Rust Treatment, it seals and dries to a flexible film, works well, then you can paint over that what you like.
 

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GUII ZD30DI Wgn
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The Penetrol brand has several products,the one I was referring to is a penetrating rust stopper,Bunnings have aerosol cans,and Redacteur is a super WD40 type product also sold by Bunnings [ in the tool shop ] or you could use Ballistol on the electrics.Treated the roof cavity of two GQs with Penetrol to prevent the dreaded convertible patrol syndrome,where the turret rusts off o_O

Cheers,G.
Why would you be wanting to use pentrol on it sorry? As it’s a surface conditioner for paint?. Also what’s the Redacteur spray I can’t find it when I search it up? Thanks mate !!
The Redacteur H-72 is a good rust treatment, but I only use it for stubborn nuts and bolts like on exhaust manifolds. Penetrol have a product Rust Treatment, it seals and dries to a flexible film, works well, then you can paint over that what you like.
 

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For the chassis what I do after going on the beach is to put a plastic hose nossle on the fan setting and feeding it into the chassis rail from the back of the truck through to the front. Just make sure it's on properly or it can shoot of inside the chassis rail and you cannot get it out again, that's what happens to a mate of mine on his GQ 😂
 

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The Redacteur H-72 is a good rust treatment, but I only use it for stubborn nuts and bolts like on exhaust manifolds. Penetrol have a product Rust Treatment, it seals and dries to a flexible film, works well, then you can paint over that what you like.
I'm a stubborn nut,that's why I have a can handy :ROFLMAO:
 

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Submerge in fresh water. A couple of river crossings perhaps to get the salt out..very good idea if able too.
Also Universals, wheel bearings, CV's, Alternator and all associated bearings. Radiator fins, esp at joins.
Chassis points with bushes, inside body sills, A pillar, B pillar, rear lower panels. It seeps into where panels and gussets overlap and electrolysis sets in.
Wiring connectors already mentioned.
Overfill diff, xfer and gearbox so ALL internals get washed over.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
ive completely stripped everything and taken wiring out soaking that aswell as alternator and starter motor. All chassie with be fully cleaned and any rust rust converted or wire wheeled then all sprayed over. I’ll regresse all joints to remove all crap in there. Gear box and hubs been flushed with oil and diesel. All bearings and seals being done through out aswell. Think this is the best I think I could do?
 

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I would very seriously consider taking my advice on using lanolin before any other rustproofing/spray goes on.

I had a brown rust stain on my paint in the roof gutter on the drivers side. A spot that had not been sealed properly when it was repainted it appeared, and water got in and started rusting. As a quick fix to hopefully slow it down a bit before I had to fix it properly, I sprayed it with lanolin a number of times, hopefully to let it soak in the seam. But the rust stain slowly disappeared, and after cleaning it up and then putting some cavity wax on it, it has never been touched again.

Have you ever seen a rusty sheep???? ;)
 

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I would very seriously consider taking my advice on using lanolin before any other rustproofing/spray goes on.

I had a brown rust stain on my paint in the roof gutter on the drivers side. A spot that had not been sealed properly when it was repainted it appeared, and water got in and started rusting. As a quick fix to hopefully slow it down a bit before I had to fix it properly, I sprayed it with lanolin a number of times, hopefully to let it soak in the seam. But the rust stain slowly disappeared, and after cleaning it up and then putting some cavity wax on it, it has never been touched again.

Have you ever seen a rusty sheep???? ;)
Thanks mate will do that and let it dry it had plenty of washes with all sorts of chemicals then will coat it in lanolin, then spray tomorrow.
 

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Lanolin will dry after a while, so I let it do that before using anything else. It is very good at getting into seams because it is very thin when applied.
 
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