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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
G'day guys.
Just picked up a Patrol

02' ST, With Gas Injection, Driving Lights.
Is in top condition and really well maintained.

Have been 4x4ing for years in a little Suzuki, but needed something bigger.
Just saying Hi, and will post work done here.

Cheers
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
Plan was to get it lifted and muddies right away, as this will get me pretty much most of the places I need to get to.
Dobinsons 2 inch lift kit (had it in the vitara, and loved it), plus I like supporting Australian companies.



Went in pretty much hassle free (except I buggered the draglink and had to buy a new one. I hit it in the wrong spot when trying to unlodge it and buggered the thread on it. I tried to fix it, but nothing would work. I'll fix it now that its off the the car, but just to sell it as a second, as I got the extra Heavy duty adjustable one so I could get rid of that slightly left turned wheel after the lift).
Lift kit was 750 off ebay, and drag link was 300 from patrol docta.

This is my "HOW TO INSTALL A GU PATROL LIFT KIT".

None of the instructions I found online were really comprehensive, so incase anyone in future finds this.

Front :
1. Unbolt lower shocker bolts while car still on ground.
2. Jack up car (quite high), support with 2 jack stands, remove wheels and put them under the car just incase jackstand fails (this is a big fear of mine!)
3. Support front diff with the jack, jack up the jack enough to hold the diff, even though its attached.
4. Unbolt Dranglink (which is the bar that goes from steering box to passenger wheel).
5. Unbolt Sway bar (stabalizer bar) from the top bolts (not the side bolts)
6. Remove diff breather, and unbolt any of the brake lines bolted to the diff.
7. Once all that is unbolted, the diff is effectively not connected to anything other than the axle, You can slowly lower it on the jack, keep an eye on any cables that may be stretching, i forgot one but noticed it as we were going slow, and relived it. You can relieve them by unbolting them from the diff, and they will give enough room to move.
8. The springs will just fall out, and the shocks will be hanging from the top bolt. Just undo this and you've got your suspension out.
9. Chuck in the springs, make sure they sit in the grooves. Chuck in the top bolt, and then jack up the diff, bolt the bottom of the shocks in, reconnect sway bar and other stuff we removed, and ur done.

Rear:
Very very easy.
1. Remove wheels,
2. Support diff with jack from the diff ball
3. Unbolt swaybar.
4. Unbolt brake lines connected to diff
5. Remove shocks.
6. Lower jack, lowering the diff, springs fall out, and refit everything in reverse order.

The whole process took me 4-5 hours, but I was going real slow. If I did it again I could do it in 3 hours tops. Its not too hard,and great to have a second person around, but I did most of it on my own, and some of it with my little cousin, who is a great help.
Dont need spring compressors like I did in my vitara, which I hated doing. This was a walk in the park , if I can do it, anyone can do it.

here is an image of the parts (drag link not pictured here)




Some pics of the install

Borrow a Nice big jack from your cousin. Your little 1000kg one that got you through 2 years of owning a SWB vitara will not do. And start with a clean garage so you can find your tools easily. I still lose my tools while im working. Go figure.



Diff dropped with spring out.



New springs ready to go in. They will never ever look this nice again.



Front in



Rear half way done.




Here's my new adjustable heavy duty drag link vs the stock one. This one is awesome.



Drag link installed (am yet to fit a new steering damper). I don't like the feedback i get on the road without one.




Picked up my 33's, Federal Couragia MT's with Dymanic steel wheels 16x8 -22 offset ( i like the tyres slightly outside the guards, Its very very slight but I Think it looks good). Wheels and tyres from MSWT in dandenong. Great place, organised everything via email and picked them up on the weekend all ready to go. Price was tops too.
Must make sure the kid fits in the rim (official measuring device!)



Will be fitting my bullbar shortly, its sitting in the garage, waiting for my winch rebuild to be complete.
I got my mates old warn winch 9000lb but its kinda siezed. Just in the process of rebuilding it, pics to come shortly.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Here's how it sits now. Its dead level all teh way around. Dobinsons suspension is A grade. I highly recommend it.
Sorry bout the crappy pic, phone was a bit dirty, didn't realise.

 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Looks good.

Did you really need to remove the draglink?

And why did you remove the tie rod?
well, when I was looking for a write up on how to install the lift kit in these, I couldn't really find any comprehensive info. Found a few wishy washy writeups, all with conflicting information.

The drag link looked like it needed to be removed as it would limit the amount the diff would come down.
No need to remove the tie rod, that was just my over zealous unbolting.
 

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Rogue
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Looks great mate!

When I swap springs over, I just undo shocks and sway bars and the diff has enough travel to fit 4" springs easy.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Yeah I should have done that. My vitara was Independent front suspension, instead of live axle. First live axle i've worked on so its all a bit new.
I should have done that in the first place.

The brake lines did stretch a bit, but I had to unbolt them off the diff to get teh clearance.
 

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Looks great mate!

When I swap springs over, I just undo shocks and sway bars and the diff has enough travel to fit 4" springs easy.
Thats it Heyhey, at least as mentioned he has changed out drag link and correct the steering wheel. Good point also made with unbolting the brake line whilst dropping the diff down, probably unnecessary for 2" lift but better to be safe then sorry.

Hmmm, 4.8 petrol so the 2" lift is in the tyres are ready to go just need that turbo to make it sing.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Thats it Heyhey, at least as mentioned he has changed out drag link and correct the steering wheel. Good point also made with unbolting the brake line whilst dropping the diff down, probably unnecessary for 2" lift but better to be safe then sorry.

Hmmm, 4.8 petrol so the 2" lift is in the tyres are ready to go just need that turbo to make it sing.
LOL 4.8 turbo would be slightly overkill. hahaha
 

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Looks great, same colour as mine, but in better condition by the looks of it, nice buy.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
One of my mates had a pretty serious 80 series that he sold cheap. Part of the deal was that he keep the drawers, winch and bullbar. He never got around to selling them so I got the winch off him. Price is pending rebuild, but he's a good mate so I dont reckon it will set me back much at all.
Yes its a warn!

Anyway, it's probably never, in its life been serviced so I decided to tackle it. Pics explain.
I cant for the life of me undo the 3 flat head screws on the electrical drum. They are siezed real good. Any advice would be great. Dont really want to drill them out.



Electrics cracked open



Gearbox had quite a bit of water in it, but was greased up pretty well still. Nothing seized, everything moves nicely. Seals look good condition.














I found a rebuild thread here some where where they paint the inside of the electrics, and sand down the contacts to protect them. Will just follow that, after I work out how to remove the flat head screws.
Seriously, why did warn use flat heads but hex heads on everything else. Makes no sense. They are a pain the royal ass to remove.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 · (Edited)
Ok. After re reading the manual and googling, I realised I didn't need to undo the housing screws. Got the electric motor out with the use of my shop press.

will clean all this gunk up tomorrow and paint the insides....



 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Been working on this friggen winch.

I ran it through the dishwasher (after wife went to sleep) a few times after de-greasing it, then I got it sandblasted. I have pics but they are terrible, so I wont post them of that process. Everyone knows what a sandblasted winch looks like. lol.

I wanted something a little different, and since its hidden behind the bar, who cares what it looks like. So I went for Hammer TONE copper. They should have really labelled the can "Hammertone POO BROWN" because it sure as hell isn't copper.

First I white primed everything in Rust Guard primer, then hammer tone'd a few layers on it.
I sealed the whole unit with gasket sealer, and i also sealed the drain/fill hole and grinded out a new one as per some instructions on this form.

am happy with it...its much better than what it was, will be good to get it hooked up and tested, everythig works, freespool brake, but just gotta make sure the electrical is a ok before i mount it.





into the kithcen table after washing many many times in a bucket of HOT water and solvol. I love solvol. Best stuff EVER.



assembly







Brake assembly.







And done diddlly done !



 

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LED ZEPPELIN
1995 GQ TD42 NA
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Good work! Looks like a Gulf-spec winch in that colour :)
 
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