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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
G'day all,

Welcome to the build thread for the conversion of my 1998 GU TB45E auto to a factory turbo TD42T.

Background:
A few years back my TB45E head was needing a reco due to many years on LPG, at which point in time I decided to ditch LPG and run straight petrol with long range tank (I was sick of the lack of range). I then rebuilt the TB45E with forged conrods and new pistons, reco-ed the head. Then, I installed a Garrett GT35/40 from a BA XR6 turbo, Frozenboost W2A intercooler, and Megasquirt 3 EFI system. After around 3 years of faultless running (at 15 psi :)) I found that I needed to commute more often in the Patrol, and I made the decision to remove the turbo setup and make the car a little more road friendly (i.e. drop the lift from 3" to 2" and remove the turbo setup).

Current Mods:
- 33's, 4.3 diff gears and 43% reduction gears
- RE4R03A transmission rebuilt by yours truly with additional clutch frictions, Wholesale Automatics Extreme valvebody and low stall J6 torque converter
- 4" Patroldocta snorkel and airbox
- 2" rear flexy coils/2" front linear coils with Fox 2.0 remote res shocks, equivalent to 4" flex, the usual Superior Engineering components

It goes without saying that the N/A TB45E is infuriatingly slow when loaded, and drinks like a sailor, so I have been looking for a suitable factory turbo TD42T on and off for some time. A few weeks back I lucked out and finally got the engine I was after :)

It's a factory turbo, factory auto 12v GU TD42T Japanese import :D





So, now I begin the task of giving the TD42T a bit of a birthday. 8) For the conversion I'll be following in the steps of JFF45 and mytqik although probably with some slight variations.
 
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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
Exhaust manifold and turbo removed - exhaust studs in good condition and none broken. New studs on their way for installation anyway.



Intake manifold and EGR pipe removed. Some soot in all intake ports, Cyl #1 is the worst with probably 5-6 mm thick of fluffy looking soot. Note the IP has TPS and AC idle-up actuator. Vacuum pump is also under the IP on the timing cover.



Based on engine number, this engine is a late 1999 build. It has the two different oil filters (Z416/Z503 equivalent) as you can see by the threads on the oil cooler assembly.



The thermostat housing bolts came out no worries, the coolant galleries are fairly clean and free of significant gunk. The thermostat was no good and caked with powdery solids. Water pump seems in good condition however unfortunately there is some minor corrosion which has occurred within the water pump volute.



When I removed the water pump there was some orange gunk sitting in the pump volute which seems to have corroded the timing cover where the sealing face to the water pump is. I could probably get away with leaving it but I think I will replace the timing cover, or else the corrosion area will be eroded over time. I don't want to be revisiting this area for a while!

 
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Well done, Scott! I'm convinced the imported engines is the only way to go when I read about the issues a few have had with locally procured flogged out old silver tops or "rebuilt" engines that don't seem to last very long.

Good luck with the build! Knowing you, it will turn out to be the envy of a few :)
 

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How did you guys go about sourcing a jap engine and what was the condition/price etc
Yeah I have to giggle when you see adds from people selling silver tops for 5k engine only...
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
How did you guys go about sourcing a jap engine and what was the condition/price etc
Yeah I have to giggle when you see adds from people selling silver tops for 5k engine only...
There are a number of wreckers in Brisbane who import Japanese TD42T engines. You've just got to keep on top of them as the engines sell pretty quick. Most are 24v. Some are autos. Asking price is typically $7.7K but both John and I both got ours for under $7K.

Condition seems to be quite good - my understanding is that there are not many km's on Japanese engines before the cars get put out to pasture, as their emissions regulations are quite strict. My guess is there is probably plenty of financial incentive to use newer engines in Japan too.

Out of interest I got a price from a reputable wreckers in Shanghai (via Alibaba) for a TD42T engine out of Y60 Safari - it was approx. US$2500 landed in Melbourne + clearance costs/duty/gst. Photos looked OK but the trust factor was a little too low for me to bother :p Still, it seems some more adventurous types could land a factory turbo engine for ~AU$4500 if they wanted to try it... :D
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
After much scrounging through parts diagrams and FAST, there seem to be three timing cover part numbers covering TD42T/Ti engines:

For Japanese spec TD42T:
- with vac pump on alternator (pre 08.1995): 13034-51N00
- with vac pump on timing cover (post 08.1995): 13034-0Y710
For Australian spec TD42T and TD42Ti with vac pump on timing cover: 13034-62T00

The difference between the first two is obvious (due to vacuum pump location), but I have not been able to confirm the different between the second two which share the same vacuum pump location. I believe the Australian spec timing covers are different in that those models all use the tacho sensor on the front of the cover, whereas the Japanese models all use the tacho sensor under the IP on the side of the cover. Perhaps the difference is only that the timing covers come with different tacho sensor holes blanked. Notably, the Japanese spec timing cover is 2/3 the price of the Australian spec. Three week wait unfortunately...in the mean time I have some other mods to do on the manifold and turbo side.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Progress has been slow! Between waiting for parts, working long hours and having a 6 week holiday, it has been tough getting things done.

Cleaning off the old gasket from the backing plate isn't fun, so I put a brass wheel on the angle grinder and it got there in the end.


Now the TD is enjoying a brand new timing cover and backing plate...


While I was waiting for parts I broke out the die grinder and got stuck into the factory exhaust manifold, then I cleaned it up and painted it in high temp paint. I also had some spare 10mm 316L stainless plate, so I whipped up a neat (and overkill) EGR block. I might drill and tap it for a secondary EGR probe.




Currently working on a mild grind/polish on the head intake and exhaust ports. IP soon to go back on along with Mamba 18g/6cm. Then I will measure up and go into fabrication mode for a new inlet manifold/integrated W2A intercooler.
 

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if i didn't connect circled red hose what will happen. i have changed TD42 engine to TD42 turbo engine and air filter box not yet done so this hose just hanging from there not connected to anything.

please advise.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Geez mine must be the slowest conversion ever :D hard to find time but I'm slowly getting there...I can see light at the end of the tunnel. Continuing where I left off...

I cleaned all the sooty residue out of the exhaust ports with a dremel. Took some time but I got the ports mostly spotless. I didn't really try to take any meat out, more just a good clean up. New genuine studs and locknuts.


With the crank nut, it's handy to have access to a 1000 Nm torque wrench.


Off comes the TB45E bellhousing. Using the TD42T sandwich plate, my esteemed fitter & turner mate marked up the required starter bolt holes, whipped his drill press out of cobwebs and fixed 'er up. M12x1.75 threads.


As other have mentioned, the TD42T auto sandwich plate is in two sections, usually the lower section is missing. I cut the TB45E sandwich plate to suit, which isn't too difficult (it's hard to see - I painted the lower section after this photo).


Bellhousing re-installed with the torque converter in place (J6-type, modded by Dominator for low stall and extra tabs)


Fitment of flex plate on T/C to show how it looks in the bellhousing


Gratuitous rear-end shot, flex plate torque up to engine
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
The manifold and turbo went on, and I installed a Mamba TD05H 18G/6cm turbo with bolt-on rear housing.



For all the oil and coolant fittings I used Aussie made Speedflow fittings, I didn't want to use any old eBay fittings for the sake of a few bucks.

Oil Feed: the factory engine oil feed is used (M10x1.5 to -4AN) feeding PTFE braided hose with fibreglass/silicone insulation sleeve, which joins to the turbo oil inlet (also M10x1.5). I am using a 2.0 mm diameter oil restrictor (drilled out 1.0 mm one), factory supply by Mamba was 1.8 mm.

Oil Return: I bent the factory oil return pipe slightly, which allowed it to be fitted with the factory red rubber joiner. I drilled out the mating flange which bolts to the underside of the turbo in order to match the bolt pattern.

Coolant Feed and Return: Using -6AN PTFE braided hose with the same fibreglass/silicone insulation sleeve, aluminium banjo fittings (M14x1.5 on turbo), factory coolant feed (M12x1.5) and return (M16x1.5) ports.




The Mamba actuator has already been filed in my junk pile, I disliked the actuator so much I straight away bought a Turbosmart IWG-75 to go on in its place. The stroke of the rod was inconsistent and felt softer for the same spring rate as the Turbosmart, and wasn't tolerant of any slight misalignment at all.

I was hoping to use my TB45E steering pump but discovered the pulley size was way smaller (about 115 mm compared to 140 mm dia for the Safari TD42T). I decided to buy the GU TD42T P/S pulley which is 125 mm dia. See comparison, GQ on left vs. GU on the right, both TD42T pulleys.


Installed on the engine...


And the engine, plonked in its new home...
 
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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Sorry about that, for some pics I use my DSLR and I didn't bother re-sizing them (in my browser they automatically reduce to the width of the page...and I have fast internet :))

As mentioned, my TD42T is a post 08.1995 model, for which the vacuum pump is on the timing cover (under the IP).
 

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Hello scottmeister, firstly awesome job so far the workmanship is top quality. I have a question about your IWG75 actuator. Did you buy the universal fit with the straight actuator rod or one of the OEM model specific with the bent rod to fit the mamba?
I am going to replace my kinugawa actuator with a dual port IWG75 and the dual port from my research appears to only come with the straight rod. I should be able to bend to suit if not I will make a bracket.
I'm interested to see what you have done. If you have some time could you post a picture.
Thanks in advance.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Hello scottmeister, firstly awesome job so far the workmanship is top quality. I have a question about your IWG75 actuator. Did you buy the universal fit with the straight actuator rod or one of the OEM model specific with the bent rod to fit the mamba?
I am going to replace my kinugawa actuator with a dual port IWG75 and the dual port from my research appears to only come with the straight rod. I should be able to bend to suit if not I will make a bracket.
I'm interested to see what you have done. If you have some time could you post a picture.
Thanks in advance.
I'm using a IWG-75 to suit Subaru Impreza WRX STI, part no. TS-0605-1072. The rod is bent and suits perfectly. I just changed the clevis over with the one from the Mamba which is a smaller ID. I'll grab a photo soon.
 
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