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Mr G60
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890 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
hey guys,

I have never rebuilt a diesel but am thinking about doing it on an SD33 I have. I can get one of those Ebay rebuild kits for not to much cash. I can have the machine shop magnaflux it, deck it and do any machining required. And I can assemble it.

How many here have ever rebuilt the SD33(T) themselves? Any advice or words of caution?

The motor I have is an N/A and I do plan to turbo it. I have the stock turbo and manifolds, just need to get the turbo rebuilt. I know ideally I also need the turbo I/P and I plan to pick one up.

The engine I have runs decent, bit of a misfire under load but otherwise pretty good. Only a very small amount of blue smoke, like real small. The engine was supposedly rebuilt (by previous owner) less than 5,000 miles ago but has never been top notch. One thin to note is the oil is always a bit thin and smells a bit like diesel which I believe is due to not so good rings? I have had the injectors done on the engine awhile back and it did run a bit better after. I also got the cooling system working well and set the timing which also helped but the old oil burner just has never run top notch like I want. Hence the plan to maybe go through it.

Cheers
 

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Master Coalroller
nissan
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3,230 Posts
Check the sticky, I think the turbo models had different injector pumps and maybe rings too?
There's two turbo releases as well, a retrofitted and a factory released. Externally both very different to each other, and non turbo.
But for recon, assembly is key. Always check ring gap clearances, some don't and pay later.
Cheers
 

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Rust is just natural weight reduction.
1986 SD33T SWB
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11,033 Posts
I have never rebuilt an SD33, but I have done a little research on it.

I know that these engines do not like aftermarket gaskets, so even if you get an eBay rebuild kit I would definitely get a genuine Nissan VRS (About AU$330). Personally I would use as many genuine Nissan parts as possible. Since the SD was also in the Scout, are there any places that make good quality reproduction parts for old IH's over there? That may be another good option.
I don't know what the quality of an eBay rebuild kit is like, but for between AU$1100-1600 I can't imagine the parts to be up to the same quality as Nissan parts.

You will need a machine shop to press in the new liners, and they must protrude from the block slightly, otherwise you'll blow head gaskets constantly.

Boundary Rider is correct, both piston rings and IP are different. Turbo pumps had a compensator, NA pumps did not, Azotek knew a lot about the pumps on SD's, I don't know if he still checks the forum or not, hopefully he will chime in here. And to confuse the piston rings matter a bit more in Australia pre 1983 NA SD33's had 5 piston rings and no oil squirters, SD33T and post 1983 NA SD33's had 3 piston rings and piston oil squiters.
I think I remember you saying your MQ is an '83... so I'm not sure if you have the last of the engines with no oil squirters or the start of the engines with them.

Outside of that I can't offer too much information sorry.
 

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The Prodigal Child Has Returned
nissan
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7,289 Posts
Not to many people from memory have rebuilt there motors dude, I know of 2 I know there is more but these are just off the top of my head, but not sure on how much the 1st person did him self, and then there was this fella who got ape **** sd33t with a dry sump and a supercharger built in Australia and shipped "god's country" Not sure who he was:rolleyes:.

Might be worth while just doing a compression test 1st to see what the pressures are, if there pretty sweet, get the ip rebuilt and bolting the turbo on the side. If it is still not right rebuild the motor then, You have lost nothing as you needed to do the rest anyway.
 

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Registered
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175 Posts
LOL, It's RMP&O....I bet hes doing it because he wants to not out of necessity

Useless post from me, no advice I've only done the gearbox not the block
 

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1,339 Posts
Haven't actually done it myself, but having taken the head off one, it looks pretty damn easy. Only fiddly bit would be what James mentioned about the sleeves needing to protude, I suspect that the flush sleeves on the motor I beheaded were the reason for the blown gasket on that one.
 

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Mr G60
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890 Posts
Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Thanks for comments guys.

I know about the rings and different pistons as well as the I/P. I also know about the oil squirters and do have an 83, German. Unsure if it has the squirters.

I did not know about the sleeves needing to protrude.

Correct me if I am wrong but wouldn't thin oil that smells a bit like diesel be bad rings? My old SD33 doesn't burn much if any oil but it leaks it like a sieve out of the rear main seal, replaced that 2x already. Also leaks a little from front main seal.

Yes, wanting to do it to learn and just to do it. Also the truck the engine is going in is being built to sell. Would like to have a new engine in it. Trans + t-case is already fully rebuilt. Trans even got NOS synchro rings. Rebuilding the motor tops of the drivetrain as "rebuilt".

I do know about the head gaskets issues, I think I may have an NOS HG here, have to dig to find out.

I am pretty good with a die grinder and have all kinds of bits. One of the reasons I have thought about porting and polishing. Seen it done and seems easy enough.

Cheers
 

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Mr G60
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890 Posts
Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Also how the fark do yo compression test this motor? I have two diesel compression testing kits. Can only get in the first 3 injector or glow plug holes. IP and steel fuel lines in the way of the rest. Can't see how to do it without getting these things out of the way so I can plug into the back 3 cylinders.

Cheers
 

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The Prodigal Child Has Returned
nissan
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7,289 Posts
Also how the fark do yo compression test this motor? I have two diesel compression testing kits. Can only get in the first 3 injector or glow plug holes. IP and steel fuel lines in the way of the rest. Can't see how to do it without getting these things out of the way so I can plug into the back 3 cylinders.

Cheers

Can't get extension or a flexible line in there ????? I just replaced my glow plugs and took the top injector lines off , was much easier after that.
 

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I am pretty good with a die grinder and have all kinds of bits. One of the reasons I have thought about porting and polishing. Seen it done and seems easy enough.
I would do some research before hacking into it. Polishing is old-school as far as I know. Cleaning up any dags and burrs on the other hand would be worthwhile. Actually porting the heads though... not sure. Bigger ports may allow more air into the cylinders, but may make it less responsive whilst off-boost. There is an art to it, shape and size are both very important (but less so with boost). You can probably make some easy gains port matching the intake/exhaust/etc, and getting a quality valve job done.
 

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Mr G60
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890 Posts
Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Can't get extension or a flexible line in there ????? I just replaced my glow plugs and took the top injector lines off , was much easier after that.
Seems not with the two diesel kits I have, one a cheapo and one a high dollar. Neither has a flexible attachment. Now my petrol test kit does have a flexible attachment. Shouldn't matter now anyways, motor is on shop floor so much easier to tear a few things down and test compression.

Thing is, as stated SD33T uses different pistons. So regardless of my compression I need to upgrade. And as neRok says, I don't want to do a "hack" job so will be fitting TD pistons/rings, I/P, TD manifolds, ect ect.

I may just go for it, all I would really be doing is assembly. Machine shop can test, machine and prep the block and or head. Plus the I/P can be sent out, tested and calibrated as required, same for injectors.

Cheers
 

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nissan mk
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I had to make up an adapter out of an old injector to pressure test mine as none of the commercial ones had the right thread or were long enough to seal properly. Took the guts out of an old injector and silver soldered a nipple to suit my tester hose on top.
Are you planning on re-sleeve or just rings and bearings?
Mine had 450k on it and compression was still withing range wet and a little low dry.
Didn't bother to do the rebulid after that and didn't really want any practice... Tip if you do decide to pull the liners and they are really tight lay a bead of weld in the bore while they are under tenson from the puller.
 

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The Prodigal Child Has Returned
nissan
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7,289 Posts
Bugger me there's a blast from the past , have not seem you here in a while. . Good tip too.


Sent using carrier pigeon from Bill Lawrie
 
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