[NialOxWestYorks]

Hello all,

Just after a little bit of help on checking the rod bearings when I change my oil next.

Can I just remove the sump and feel for play in the caps? Or is there another preferred method?

Another thing - I keep eating through glow plus - unfortunately the 24v ones are scarce in the UK so its eating 12v ones every 2/3 months.

One think I wanted to ask was how damaging is easy start to an engine? In the intervals between when mine is waiting for plugs.

And should these engines be able to start up with no plugs and no quick start after say 30s of cranking?

It's a real tough one when no one in the UK has a huge amount of knowledge on this engine and I've never heard or seen another running to compare.

Here's mine running - sounds worse in person

And here's a photo now I've put it back to looking a bit more original - paintjob incoming.

 

[james008]

When checking bottom end bearings, if you can feel the free play they're beyond rooted already lol. Plastigage or similar is the easiest option. Take the cap off, wipe the oil off the journal and bearing, then torque it back up, remove the cap again and compare the width of the plastigage to the markings on the packet. Obviously the bearing should be oiled again once you're done.
Off the top of my head the spec is 0.035-0.086mm with an upper wear limit of 0.15mm.
Have a look over the bearings while the caps are off too, deep gouges, worn passed the copper layer etc and they should be replaced.

SDs don't love a cold start, in warm enough weather they'll fire up with no glow plugs after a lot of cranking, but in cooler weather forget it.
Using easy start/aerostart etc won't hurt anything if its only used once in a while, but I wouldn't be using it all the time. They tend to knock pretty badly on first start with it.
Glow plugs shouldn't be too hard to track down, HKT, NGK, Bosch etc all have online catalogues.

From your video I don't hear anything concerning about the engine. SD's arent nearly as refined as modern diesels, they're very commercial old engines so they are louder and a bit more rattly than new stuff.

 

[bazzle]

Sadly you can't feel for play at the caps unless they are REALLY Knackered!
You need to remove a cap to check for wear.
If they look ok probably will be. Any sign of wear and a bit of plastiguage is your friend.
These engines can be a bit noisy. Also yes they can be started without heaters.
Bit of noise, lots of white smoke but eventually they will run IF battery has enough grunt o keep turning it over.
24v glow plugs ones may be available from PatrolApart.com.au or ebay.com.au or similar.

 

[bazzle]

Ha 2 replies, 1 second apart

 

[PrfctChaos]

Any reason why you wouldn't change the wiring so that your 12v glow plugs get 12v instead of 24v? (Like just connecting over the one battery instead of both for example)

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[NialOxWestYorks]

Cheers lads,

I may well just do the oil and filter and inspect for signs of anything metallic. I plan on doing the vales up top soon.

Temps around me at the moment are between freezing - 10 degrees C . So I'm guessing that counts as cold enough for starting troubles!

What sort of temps do you guys run at? I've a land rover series 3 radiator with no fan and It didn't get past 65 degrees.

An auto electrician mate is coming to give a hand re-wiring some stuff. Is that the case then where I can run glow plus at 12v off the first battery?

Cheers
Nial

 

[PrfctChaos]

As far as I can see the W/R wire on the wiring diagram (going to the two glow plug relays). (With relay 1 closed it gives 24v directly to the glowplugs. With only relay 2 closed the 24v goes though a resister first (reducing the voltage) then to the glow plugs.)

The W/R wire does not go to any other components, only powering the glow plugs, so cannot see any negitive knock-on effect to changing that from 24v suplly to 12v supply, to suit your fitted plugs.

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[NialOxWestYorks]

Nice one,

I should point out my car has the butchered wiring from both a landy and patrol combined. With essentially 24v bulbs in the landy.

Its a bit of a mess really.

Lights have died minus the brake light (different circuit).

Thought It was just the hot wire but wired another in and it keeps blowing fuses so must be short somewhere

 

[james008]

Whether you choose 24 or 12v, its probably worth picking 1 and sticking to it throughout the vehicle as much as practical. Given that the engine accessories and wiring are 24v, that's what I'd be choosing, especially given the cold temps you are starting the engine in. Plus halving the amperage on the 'Prince of darkness' wiring where possible can't be a bad thing lol. Anything that is difficult to change, like the instrument cluster, can be run through a 24-12v converter.
As for glow plugs, I'd order 24v units, they should be available in Europe. Early SD33 glow plugs are 75mm long, later models used 70mm, but the resistor length is the same, so either can be used.