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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
i ended up buying a vrs kit coz when i got the head off about 5 of the valve stem seals were gone so replaced them now ready to put the head back on but i have some rubber o rings do they sit under or on top of the head gasket and do they sit on the small water jacket near the bores any help thanks in advance
 

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i havent done sd33 head yet, but im pretty sure ive read thats what those o-rings are for. check the service manual to be sure.
http://nerok.info/general/service_manuals#sd_series_diesel_engine

also, everyones going to tell you the aftermarket head gaskets are crap and going to cause problems and you should buy genuine nissan.
 

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I fitted an aftermarket one.
in the beginning there were bubbles on the side and i decided to up the torque of the main bolts.
solved the prob and still rock solid after 100.000k.

so i dont believe all the talk of aftermarket gaskets to be crap.
I however prefer OM though,but due to shortage of cash tossed in the aftermarket and saved me 50%
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
yes i know i should of gotten a oem gasket but i got a acl vrs kit for 125 compared to 265 for a genuine head and exhaust gasket
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
ok got it back together blead it up but guess what no [email protected]#c#$ng fire tried and tried but no fire double checked every thing twice any ideas as ive just about had enough of the diesels might jus have to look at a 350 chev oil leak instead
 

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Did you get all the air out of the injectors?
I completely forgot about that m'self, cracked the pair of bleeder screws on the injector pump, pumped the pickup pump 'til no more air came out of the screws, and she kicked over fine.

Another thing will be to check the glowplugs. The relay is ticking on and off at least?
Dunno if it's safe to see if they heat up when they're not in the block but still wired up, but if you have a multimeter, testing if there's resistance from one end to the other is how you do it that way (A tiny amount of resistance means it's fine, no continuity means it's screwed)
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
yep tried all that even pulled out a glow plug and left it wired up to see if it worked and it did
a nother q? the delivery valve on the ip are they supposed to be tight ive done some reading and from what i can find they are supposed to be torqued up but mine are loosish could that have something to do with it??????
 

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If you need a spanner to undo them still then they shouldn't be causing a problem. Not too sure on that one though.

Another idea, crack the pipes over the injectors and give the motor a couple of turns, to make sure diesel is being pushed through all of 'em.
 

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And the last thing I can really think of is have you taken off the rocker cover to make sure all the tappets are doing their dance?
 

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If you removed the injectors did you replace the copper washers?
Maybe you will need to check your compression??
You could do the old reality trick and do the nearly top dead center, inlet on number 1 valve closed, timing mark on injector pump lined up etc.. etc
No black magic with diesels! Just compression and fuel!
 

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I'm his dad, I was a mechanic like 30 yrs ago and even this one has us really got us stumped :bowdown:. The engine ran fine before we took the head off and had an ACL headgasket on it there are a few minute cracks between the valves but as far as i can that would not cause this problem and yes we left out the rubber rings for the water jackets. When cranking it over ther were a few bubbles coming out the injector side of the head and block so we decieded to lift the head and fit the rubbers as Justin did but again no go. We degreased the head the first time with the injestors still in the head and hosed it off and the head was off for the night, is it possible the injectors tips rusted up ??
Thanks all who have replied so far
 

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Yes try the starterfluid trick.
It's possible the tips of the injectors rusted up due to the hose off.
That's why you don't use water to rinse but petrol,spirit or some solvent.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Well we pulled an injector out and washed it up, cleanded it out and put air through it and no bubbles at the tip so i guess the tips are clogged, looks like a set of reco's going it in buggar!!!
:cry:
 

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you can't check it with compressed air, because the opening pressure of the nozzle is between 1422 and 1607 Psi.
U can use an injection tester or remount the fuel line and crank the engine with the injectors out.
And make sure the edic motor switches the pump to start,otherwise there will be no fuel.
 
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