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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I was toying with the idea of a rebuild but she is still running sweet, never
runs hot. Blows a bit if smoke but mainly in lower revs but that's due to tune..

So I wanna get the old girl all fixed but she leaks a lot but funny enough not to leave marks on the driveway..

Looks like the rear main, sump and a plate at the front of the engine.. Anyone know what it is, it sits behind the harmonic balancer??

Any idea what a mechanic would charge to fix a rear main?? I don't want to touch it incase it leaks again.. I will only be installing genuine Nissan seals..
 

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mate, if you've got leaks both at rear and front main seals and also at the sump, you will most definitely want to pull that engine out to fix it. Doing ALL of those seals with the engine in will be a bastard! :p

I can have my engine in and out in 7 hours, so a mechanic should be even quicker, then he'd need to pull all the parts off to put the new seals in. I'd at least expect 7 hours worth of labour @ $80/hour or so... Ball park figure is just less than $1000 if my calculations are right, by the time you get the seals, oil, filters etc... it might be worth pulling the engine your self and doing the repair over a couple of weekends

Saturday 1: Pull engine out, drink beer
Sunday 1: Pull parts off the engine, drink beer
----
Saturday 2: Clean parts, put new gaskets on, reassemble, drink beer
Sunday 2: Put engine back into car, take car for a spin, go home, celebrate, drink lots of beer :D

Did I mention you had to drink a few beers after each days work?? :)
I'm sure that some of the die-hearts on here could do all of this in a day, but I'm talking working for a few hours, 4 maybe, per day... It's weekend FFS :D

Cheers
Martin
 

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but I'm talking working for a few hours, 4 maybe, per day... It's weekend FFS :D
youve got it the wrong way around. do like me, i go to work to relax and put the hard yards in on the weekend. its so nice at work, there's biscuits and fruit and crackers and a flash coffee machine and aircon and fast internet. i just put on the headphones and crank some tunes in my little cubicle. very relaxing! haha. in fact, im working hard right now.

but on a serious note, i would do it yourself and save some coin. you should of considered this whilst the engine was out for the conversion lol. maybe wait a few months and do this when the engine is also ready for a service, that way your not wasting oil and coolant etc.
 

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Do the welsh plugs while your at it. there all 35mm
 

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NeRok: LOL, it seems my boss is cracking the whip a bit more, I just started a 2 month project...:angryfir:

and while you've got the engine out, do the oil cooler! :)
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Dammit!!! Lol well yeah I just serviced her so wouldn't do it right away.. I already have genuine rear main seals..

Does anyone know which part it is at the front of the motor??

I need to get it sorted as mine is still licensed as the p40 and I really want to get it licensed as the SD.... No point with all those leaks though.. I just want a nice clean engine..
 

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Dammit!!! Lol well yeah I just serviced her so wouldn't do it right away.. I already have genuine rear main seals..

There is a sneaky tool that allows you to replace rear main oil seals without taking the sump right off I saw them at Brisons maybe worth investigating.
 

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sumps not hard to get on and off, 'it's just hard to make the bloody thing seal again.
To do the rear main is a major job clutch flywheel, starter motor and the houseing it mounts to has to come off.
All at a min the last main bearing cap has to come off to get the seal out and back in, but all really need to be undone so you can cock the crank to get the engine block side out.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
I might remove the engine and just get a mobile mechanic to do the rest.. Will see, it's a job I wouldn't mind trying but I can't be without my car for too long:(
 

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sumps not hard to get on and off, 'it's just hard to make the bloody thing seal again.
To do the rear main is a major job clutch flywheel, starter motor and the houseing it mounts to has to come off.
All at a min the last main bearing cap has to come off to get the seal out and back in, but all really need to be undone so you can cock the crank to get the engine block side out.
I think the tool allows you loosen off the bearing cap and push the old seal out then slip the new one in without touching the other mains.
The seal on the "Harmonic balancer is probably not bleeding as badly as the one into the bell housing. (mine is a bit spotty but haven't decided if it is front seal on the gearbox or rear main.) If the front seal is flogged out it may be better to pull the engine as others have suggested and go the full hog:
Front timing cover seal
Welch plugs
Oil Cooler
Rear main seal.
Thrust races always need replacement after 200K +
Crack all those bolts and nuts that may be seized and sort them out.

I would like to pull my motor but:
You have to work out if the pain of pulling it out is less that the pain of leaving it alone!
Mine is staying together a bit longer.
Good luck Marc, we all spend way more time and money on these things than most sane people would accept.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Cheers mate I will agree there.. My dad told me the other day that if he won lotto he would buy me a new patrol, I politely declined...

I would rather sink some decent money into the old girl, it does exactly what I want..
 
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