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2016 CRD wagon
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi MQ/MK gurus

Can someone tell me what the sensors pictured below are for and how they work (if known)?
These are all at the front of the motor.

Automotive tire Motor vehicle Gas Plumbing Rim


And

Motor vehicle Automotive fuel system Automotive tire Gas Auto part


Both have 2 wires. The top one goes into the thermostat housing...... but there is already a separate temp guage sendor just near it.

I'm wondering if the second is a tacho signal??

TIA
 
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Rust is just natural weight reduction.
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The sender on the front timing cover is the tacho sender - its a magnetic pickup or hall affect sensor from memory.
I'd guess the best way to test it would be with a multimeter on ohms and spin the engine over, or remove it and pass some metal close to the front of it. Use a thick gasket when you reinstall or reuse the old gasket if its okay, it needs that thickness to set the depth of the sender to the timing gear.

The sensor of the thermostat housing is coolant temp for the glow plug controller. It is supposed to let the plugs glow longer with a cold engine, and turn them off quicker with a warm engine.
Nissan's electrical documentation in the 80s was patchy at best, so they don't really give much in the way of what sensors and senders should produce what values.
 
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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
The sender on the front timing cover is the tacho sender - its a magnetic pickup or hall affect sensor from memory.
I'd guess the best way to test it would be with a multimeter on ohms and spin the engine over, or remove it and pass some metal close to the front of it. Use a thick gasket when you reinstall or reuse the old gasket if its okay, it needs that thickness to set the depth of the sender to the timing gear.

The sensor of the thermostat housing is coolant temp for the glow plug controller. It is supposed to let the plugs glow longer with a cold engine, and turn them off quicker with a warm engine.
Nissan's electrical documentation in the 80s was patchy at best, so they don't really give much in the way of what sensors and senders should produce what values.
Thanks James. Very much appreciated!

I plan on a simple momentary switch to operated glow plugs for now so no worries about that coolant sensor.

With regard to tacho, do you know how the L28 sensed rpm? Did they use a similar system or was it sensed from the distributor or other ignition components?

I've had a look through the wiring schemes you linked in a different post. One thing I'm having trouble is identifying colours for wiring which would make life just a bit easier. Any hints or is that info difficult to come by?

Cheers
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
@james008
You've got me curious now.........
If the sensor is on the front of the sd33t for the tacho, where is the tacho pickup on a NA sd33?
 

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Thanks James. Very much appreciated!

I plan on a simple momentary switch to operated glow plugs for now so no worries about that coolant sensor.

With regard to tacho, do you know how the L28 sensed rpm? Did they use a similar system or was it sensed from the distributor or other ignition components?

I've had a look through the wiring schemes you linked in a different post. One thing I'm having trouble is identifying colours for wiring which would make life just a bit easier. Any hints or is that info difficult to come by?

Cheers
No worries mate.

A momentary button is simple way of doing it, IH Scouts used them from the factory, and a pull cable as an engine shut off on SD powered Scouts.
It may be worth looking into a 555 timer or timer relay if you or the young bloke were so inclined.

From memory the L28 tacho pickup was in the dizzy or triggered from the coil.

There should be this little table at the bottom RHS of the last image of the wiring diagram that shows colours and connectors.
534619


@james008
You've got me curious now.........
If the sensor is on the front of the sd33t for the tacho, where is the tacho pickup on a NA sd33?
Early SD33s didn't have tachos or the boss in the timing cover. They got them a bit later on with other MKs though in the same spot.
There is another very similar looking boss on the timing cover but just behind the harmonic balancer. No idea what its for, some marine or commercial application probably.
 
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No worries mate.

A momentary button is simple way of doing it, IH Scouts used them from the factory, and a pull cable as an engine shut off on SD powered Scouts.
It may be worth looking into a 555 timer or timer relay if you or the young bloke were so inclined.

From memory the L28 tacho pickup was in the dizzy or triggered from the coil.

There should be this little table at the bottom RHS of the last image of the wiring diagram that shows colours and connectors.
View attachment 534619



Early SD33s didn't have tachos or the boss in the timing cover. They got them a bit later on with other MKs though in the same spot.
There is another very similar looking boss on the timing cover but just behind the harmonic balancer. No idea what its for, some marine or commercial application probably.
Hey James, thanks for this info, I just want to jump in here, is a pull cable legal as a viable way to turn the engine off in Australia or does it have to shut off with the key? Only asking because if I can use a cable I just might to avoid more complicated wiring that Dad will have to do since we don鈥檛 have a controller, he鈥檚 got it all planned out but if a cable will pass a roadworthy I鈥檒l just use that.
Thanks,
Ethan.


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I'm actually not sure if a pull cable shut off is legal or not. While diesel Scouts had them, they were never sold in Australia, and I can't think of any diesel passenger vehicle around that era that did.
Your best bet may be to call a joint that does roadworthies to find out.
 
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I'm actually not sure if a pull cable shut off is legal or not. While diesel Scouts had them, they were never sold in Australia, and I can't think of any diesel passenger vehicle around that era that did.
Your best bet may be to call a joint that does roadworthies to find out.
We have an 84 BJ40 on the farm. Can confirm use of a pull to kill cable.

It also uses a momentary switch in the ign barrel for the glow plugs. Needs 10 sec minimum or it won't start.
Ta.
 

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We have an 84 BJ40 on the farm. Can confirm use of a pull to kill cable.

It also uses a momentary switch in the ign barrel for the glow plugs. Needs 10 sec minimum or it won't start.
Ta.
Thanks Marko, that鈥檚 good news if it鈥檚 factory. I have a red MQ Ute as my parts car and when I got it it also had a pull cable as a stop feature, but it definitely wasn鈥檛 factory. If yours is factory though that鈥檚 awesome, and I鈥檒l probably go that route.


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Thanks Marko, that鈥檚 good news if it鈥檚 factory. I have a red MQ Ute as my parts car and when I got it it also had a pull cable as a stop feature, but it definitely wasn鈥檛 factory. If yours is factory though that鈥檚 awesome, and I鈥檒l probably go that route.


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Have since read it's probably not factory. Not much of that car is to be honest. It's a fibreglass can junker, lipstick on a pig deal.

Sounds like lots of people do it once the solenoid fails. I say go for it.
 

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Have since read it's probably not factory. Not much of that car is to be honest. It's a fibreglass can junker, lipstick on a pig deal.

Sounds like lots of people do it once the solenoid fails. I say go for it.
I鈥檒l probably do it in the end, but for now I鈥檒l have to use the solenoid to get it initially registered at least, as it probably won鈥檛 pass a roadworthy with a pull cord.


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Discussion Starter · #13 ·

I have one of these never been used, pulled from crate motor. 89鈥 SD33T. We don鈥檛 use these in our Scouts.


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This bit seems to work ok Mike. It's the run-start-stop lever on top of the governor housing that doesnt seem to be working.

From a post in our other thread it appears the number 6 injector plunger (inside the IP) is stuck right up causing the rack to be stuck in the run fast position. Well that's my understanding anyway so we will try to free this up and with fingers馃 it might run well for us.

I am curious though, what's the part you have worth?
Is it 12V or 24v?

Cheers
 

Rust is just natural weight reduction.
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This bit seems to work ok Mike. It's the run-start-stop lever on top of the governor housing that doesnt seem to be working.

From a post in our other thread it appears the number 6 injector plunger (inside the IP) is stuck right up causing the rack to be stuck in the run fast position. Well that's my understanding anyway so we will try to free this up and with fingers馃 it might run well for us.

I am curious though, what's the part you have worth?
Is it 12V or 24v?

Cheers
Mike's is a 24v.
Second hand those EDIC motors are pretty cheap, after 30 odd years they can play up somtimes after water/dust ingress. A lot of people just remove them.
Easy to rebuild though, haven't had one yet I couldn't fix with a clean up and some new grease.
 
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Had a 1975 Landcruiser FJ45 swb , bought it in 1985 and replaced the petrol 2F motor with a B series 4 cyl diesel NA (removed from a dyna truck). Used a 24/12 volt series / parallel switch (24 V start, used 12 V for the glow plugs/chargng and everything else;

Simple real good truck, installed a pull cable located under dash to shut off fuel, push button on dash for glow and hot wire indicator above (glows red and she was right to go). Also bought an Okuda Tacho that used a pressure transducer that clamped over # 4 injector nut. Not sure if you can buy these Tachos now
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
@Bidja

Simple sounds good to me
This motor is definately basic but I'm learning so much about it (and loving the journey!).

We are hoping to be able to patch in the tacho in the dash, or at least the aftermarket tacho the previous owner ran with the 351, but if not, the tacho you have pictured may well be the answer

So far I've managed to get the td42 alternator working and charging, the oil pressure and temp gauge and the key start right with a modified td42 starter, all from a bunch of severed wires hanging out of the butchered loom, so I have surprised myself a bit.

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I went searching today and found my old Tacho and Transducer. I had pulled it out of the SWB when I sold it on. Would like to keep it but if you get stuck could loan it to you for while. The transducer wire is broken but I could have a look and see if I can get it going ( hook it up to the CRD haha).
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
I went searching today and found my old Tacho and Transducer. I had pulled it out of the SWB when I sold it on. Would like to keep it but if you get stuck could loan it to you for while. The transducer wire is broken but I could have a look and see if I can get it going ( hook it up to the CRD haha).
Shall keep that in mind John.

Thankyou for the offer

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This bit seems to work ok Mike. It's the run-start-stop lever on top of the governor housing that doesnt seem to be working.

From a post in our other thread it appears the number 6 injector plunger (inside the IP) is stuck right up causing the rack to be stuck in the run fast position. Well that's my understanding anyway so we will try to free this up and with fingers it might run well for us.

I am curious though, what's the part you have worth?
Is it 12V or 24v?

Cheers
Have no idea what it鈥檚 worth, we just don鈥檛 run 24v let alone cpu that actuates it. I bought a SD33T crate motor for my IH Scout Diesel back in 2013 (imported from Spain). So many of these items are obsolete here. I also have the bell housing and flywheel, front cover, oil pressure sender, crank pulley, motor mounts all never used.

Love the updated Nissan SD33T on my scout, it鈥檚 a beast.

Cheers!


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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
That's awesome!

I wonder if they (sd33t) are still being manufactured? Were they always made in Spain? Thought they'd be Japanese.....

Do you have a link by any chance?
 
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