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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Turbo shat itself:

Warranty was denied on the turbo - Apparently Garrett will deny a warranty for whatever they like - "Sorry sir, you clearly ass raped this one" for example...

Diagnosis on the turbo was "contaminants in the oil" - They tried to tell me a chunk the size of the tip of a pen had come through broken off somewhere in my motor, into my sump and then sucked through the oil feed and into the turbo - This isn't possible due to the turbo oil feed being so close the the oil filter - 85 micron I think?

I had a good look at the turbo and came to the conclusion of:

Turbo seals had failed for one reason or another*;
Oil was then pushed in behind the heat shield in the exhaust housing before the turbine;
The oil was trapped here and coked into nice chunks of carbon;
These chunks of carbon then made there way into the bearing cage;
I pulled the turbo off before it could destroy itself;
The carbon caused the grinding noise on shut off due to the carbon caught behind the heat shield;

Sooo...
New build consists of:



  • New GT2860RS CHRA in my existing housing (housing will be acid cleaned)
  • Inline oil restrictor 0.040 to restrict flow just that little bit more
  • Braided oil lines with inline oil filter
  • FrozenBoost.com 600HP WAIC setup with upgraded Bosch Cobra water pump
  • 3" stainless piping from turbo to WAIC and WAIC to inlet manifold
  • Custom 3" stainless inlet piping to existing manifold
  • Auber Instruments water temp gauge to read turbo coolant temp post turbo
  • Auber Instruments oil pressure gauge to read oil pressure pre turbo
  • Auber Instruments water temp gauge to read intercooler coolant temp
  • Auber Instruments AIT gauge to read air intake temps post intercooler

I was also thinking of trying the Castrol Edge 10w60 so the engine and turbo isn't trying to push 20w60 around when it is cold.

I hope to have the new setup started by the weekend but it will take a few weeks as I have to go to Brisbane next Thursday for 10 days.

I will make sure I get pics along the way.
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
New turbo is back :santa:

Here are some photos:
Shows my new inline oil filter with 85 micron filter - Nothing is getting through this sucker.
Also picked up a 4-7psi Facet electronic fuel pump.

As the rear seal is much like piston rings, the coked oil has pretty much made the ring stick thus causing the oil to leak. You can see the wear on the rear of the shaft from the coked oil.







This photo shows the coked oil trapped between the CHRA and the heatshield.



Munched!
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Got my oil feed line modified so that I can place my 85 micron oil filter in line



This was about $55 just for the cutting and 2 extra hose tails.

Picked up 2 x 1/2" Y connection for my new coolant lines to the turbo. I decided to use these instead of T pieces so that there was more chance of even flow. The T pieces do not always flow evenly.
I am going away from using the drainage port in the block to direct feed from and back to the heater hoses.

Also, replaced the Speedflow water fittings with steel as they were badly corroded.
They gave me the 90 degree elbow with it which was a bargain
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Back from Brisbane now so I will get stuck into it.

My new WAIC setup has arrived from the US so it will be good to fit that up and all the other goodies.

I just want to drive the bloody thing!

Today:
Fitted new turbo - I have used a 1-1.2mm restricter in the oil feed line now.
Blocked off coolant drainage bung (old coolant feed)
Tee'd and Y'd the heater hoses just about 4" from the thermostat and water pump housings.
Placed the new WAIC in the position I think it will fit best
Cranked the engine for 30 seconds or so until I had oil flowing from the turbo drain hose.
Started engine, no dump pipe so it sounded a bit ****ty haha
Pics:




 

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nissan mk
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Sh*t man is that an intercooler or a radiator, looks mean hope the crank holds together on full boost!
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Intercooler is on top of the engine, the radiator is at the front to cool to coolant flowing from the intercooler :)
It is a water to air setup.

This engine has been running 15-20psi from 285,000km to 325,000km

For the moment, I am standing by my theory that these older turbo oilers require an oil that doesn't thin out as much when hot, and that the aftermarket BB turbo I am using is not heating the oil like the factory turbo does! The factory HT15 is out of its efficiency range by 13-14psi. It is an oil cooled/lubricated journal bearing turbo.

GT2860RS v1.0 was the same turbo and I towed 1t+ quite often with it.
Prior to the BB turbo, full boost and hills plus loaded up meant the coolant temp would approach 3/4. Now with the BB turbo, coolant temps are around 85 degrees and stable under full load.
 

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nissan
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Do you know what oil the temps are getting to?

Im going a 15w40 oil with twin remote filters, another remote bypass filter, big oil cooler and a oil temp gauge just to be sure ;)

I too think that the cause of 2.8s and SDs letting go under sustained load is high oil temps.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Do you know what oil the temps are getting to?

Im going a 15w40 oil with twin remote filters, another remote bypass filter, big oil cooler and a oil temp gauge just to be sure ;)

I too think that the cause of 2.8s and SDs letting go under sustained load is high oil temps.
Not yet I don't. Waiting for for my Auber oil temp gauge to rock up.

The stock turbo was oil cooled only, long, sustained load and the turbo would really heat the oil up. The SD oil cooler is on the drivers side of the block and the engine coolant runs through it. As the oil is getting hot, hot, hot, the engine coolant is getting hotter trying to cool the engine oil cooler.

I will be sticking with 15w50 for winter and 20w60 for summer.

An external oil cooler is something I will be looking into, I will see what my oil temps do and go from there.

The RD28 doesn't snap cranks does it?
 

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nissan
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RD28s can snap cranks, generally when the big end or a line bearing has dropped its bundle at high rpm before it can be shut down. None of the people who have had it happen had any gauges at the time so exactly what coolant/oil/boost/egts were.

The RD28 bottom end is very strong, nitrided crank, bearing girdle ect just I dont think it likes getting too hot as they dont have oil pressure above 75psi, mostly about 70psi max, unlike the ZDs 100/110 psi. The factory oil cooler setup on the RDs is the same, hot block coolant through the cooler than into the thermostat housing, not real good but atleast it gets the oil temp up in winter ;)

Ill be interested to see how your IAT gauge goes, I bought the same a few months ago but as the amount of stuff to upgrade gets bigger Im waiting till the truck is pulled from the road and fit it all at once.

How much did the GT2860RS CHRA set you back?
 

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nissan mk
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The stock turbo was oil cooled only, long, sustained load and the turbo would really heat the oil up. The SD oil cooler is on the drivers side of the block and the engine coolant runs through it. As the oil is getting hot, hot, hot, the engine coolant is getting hotter trying to cool the engine oil cooler.
I supose it would be worthwhile for me to throw on an "extension" oil cooler (probably just a transmission cooler) onto my SD33T as the oil is probably getting too hot for freeway driving.
It will idle all day with the temp gauge at about 25% but 10 minutes at 110KPH and its up to 1/2 stick even though its getting heaps of air flow for cooling. So is it a viscous circle of hot oil driving up the block temp from heat exchange then transferring it to the water temp?
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Don't be mistaken, the SD33T loves to be at around 85 degrees. Just listen to it when at correct operating temp - It is music to my ears.

The problem is when the oil gets too hot, the heat is then transferred into the cooling system.
My SD33T will sit on half or 1mm over when working its tits off (unless on the beach in the soft stuff at 5km/h).

I got the CHRA at mates rates - Due to the nature of the failure, MTQ really looked after me :) They are normally around $800-$900. I got it for much less.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
I have 2 of the WAIC radiators now as one was slightly damaged in transit:


I was thinking of using it specifically to cool the turbo - but then it didn't quite fit behind the grill :(
I had a spare Bosch water pump too. Ah well.

I have to wait until next weekend until the intercooler pipe work will be finished.
The intercooler piping will be in 3" stainless. The intake to the turbo will also be in 3" stainless.

Even with a 1-1.2mm restriction in the oil feed, after 30 seconds of raw cranking (no fuel), more than 50ml of oil was pushed through the turbo and out the oil drain pipe. My cold oil pressure is about 70psi.

If this turbo fails, I will look at a VNT turbo, just for *****s and giggles - But I don't think it will :)
 

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If this turbo fails, I will look at a VNT turbo, just for *****s and giggles - But I don't think it will :)
I went here first, RD28ETi and the ZD30 turbo have the same bolt pattern but the hole is a different spot and I didnt have the room to make an adaptor plate as the turbo is jammed between the block and the chassis rail as it is.

I bought a second hand ZD30 GT2052V in fine working order and reclocked it to suit, alas its still in the shed along with its full dual dawes/needle valve control kit :driving: Ill find a use for it somewhere someday..... apparently VNTs make great homemade jet turbine engines
 

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Why not run a seperate system just for cooling the turbo?

Electric pump or belt driven pump. As big of an oil cooler as you can fit. In line filter ands small resivor. Done deal.


At the least put in an after market oil cooler for the whole stock system. I think we can all agree the stock system sucks for keeping the oil cool.

Adding a top mount or front mount cooler is not a big deal and will give good results.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Why not run a seperate system just for cooling the turbo?

Electric pump or belt driven pump. As big of an oil cooler as you can fit. In line filter ands small resivor. Done deal.


At the least put in an after market oil cooler for the whole stock system. I think we can all agree the stock system sucks for keeping the oil cool.

Adding a top mount or front mount cooler is not a big deal and will give good results.
I'm not sure if you are referring to the stock set up or my new setup?
The GT2860RS (BB) is water cooled.

I will be adding a separate oil cooler for the engine at some stage.
 
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