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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello,

How does the airbox seal against the pipe adapter which runs in the fender? I have a safari snorkel and basically its doing nothing but looks for show.
I gone through a few crossing and the air box fills with water and it restricting the air to the engine. The flange was sealed with silastic but I want something permanent.
A picture or part diagram would be great
 

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Some people replace the pipe with some conduit but if the snorkel was installed properly they would have used some high quality sikaflex.

I've had my gu with a safari snorkel floating down a river in the high country and the air box was dry inside.
 
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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I just got off the phone to an ARB rep and they say it is sealed with sikaflex or similar.
After taking the air box out, I noticed it wasn't fitted properly because there is a bracket connected to the secondary battery base which was pushing it away from the duct in the fender.
After installing box correctly, it now sits flush and I put locks from lawn mower blades to close the two surfaces tight together. Refer Pic



I'm going to try a crossing tomorrow and see how it goes.

One thing i noticed that the resonator bolt mount where pulling away from the polyethylene material. I cleaned it out and a whole lot of mud came out. I wondered why my vacuum system was not holding pressure... now I know. I plugged the cracks up with silastic too
 

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I have also put silicone tubing inside the joint as well as sensor safe sealant
 

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I have the Nissan genuine Airtech snorkel and it is only sealed with a gasket and shizload of silicone sealer.




I had a look and the bit through the inner guard is really restrictive. Also a sharp restrictive bend in the guard.



So I have just cut it all out and used a big 4" silicone pipe bend for the last part from the snorkel to the airbox. See page 11 of this post. I have just finished it this week.

http://www.patrol4x4.com/forum/zd30...woohoo-feels-like-new-car-121322/index11.html
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Looking good Geordie. That mod is a bit too full on for me at the moment but I bet it will work a treat. I thought using silastic was done as a temporary fix but obvious not. I don't know why they haven't used flat head panel bolts to clamp both the air box and panel duct together such as this.
 

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Yes good point,
I like your idea to clamp the airbox flange with the flat plate. Like you said, that should have been done from factory. Mine was just stuck together with sealer for years, but eventually it was going to let water in.
 

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Y2KGUII ZD Wgn
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Mine is held together with Sikaflex 227, after doing my airbox mod I put a ring of Sika on both parts that butt together then removed any excess from the inside smoothing it out in the process and allowed it to dry overnight before doing up all the bolts, it has a smooth internal transition and it's fully sealed and strong.

Note: Sika 227 has no adverse long term effects on plastics.

ab2.jpg

ab7.jpg
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Geordie and GU2 you two have great innovative ideas. These snorkel manufactures should get you both the help with their designs.
I had success with the water crossing, not a drop in the box.
 

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Geordie and GU2 you two have great innovative ideas. These snorkel manufactures should get you both the help with their designs.
I had success with the water crossing, not a drop in the box.
Good to hear that it is sealed up tight again.
Like geeyoutoo said the Sikaflex is a good strong adhesive.

I have been using Sellys silicone roof and gutter sealant (neutral cure) and in black because I was also fixing mud flaps and inner guard flare covers etc. Also while I am experimenting, the silicone is good because it is easy to peel back off again. But it does not have the strong adhesion of the Sika.

Also found that if you put any on a pipe join then clamp it with a hose clamp, the silcone is too slippery and the clamped pipe tries to slide off. Only did this as I had an unusual shape pipe under the guard from the factory snorkel. Have to rember to be patient and put it on, let it set and then clamp the pipe or just use a smear on the joint after.
 
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