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Discussion Starter #1
Hi All,

I have a few issues I am trying to fix on my Patrol. I'd love some input from those who hve been through the same issues.

Issue 1. I have the dreaded oil light fault where the oil light comes on randomly. The general fix has been to replace the senders and a resistor that sits behind the drivers side foot well panel.

Well low and behold, the resister part is no longer available through Nissan or anyone else. So I have decided to purchase an oil gauge and install that. So my questions are,

a) Can I just run the oil pressure gauge and not worry about the standard ones?
b) What thread is the oil pressure switch? My gauge is 1/8 NPT.
c) I want to connect a temp gauge too but cannot locate where the temp gauge is on the engine? Any help on that one?

Issue 2. My ABS light comes on in the morning when its cold. Not just cold engine but cold outside temperature. During summer it does not happen. Has anyone had this issue? Any solutions?

I think that does it for now. Any and all help much appreciated.

Cheers

Calsonic
 

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2010 GU DX CRD Grenade :)
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Hi All,

I have a few issues I am trying to fix on my Patrol. I'd love some input from those who hve been through the same issues.

Issue 1. I have the dreaded oil light fault where the oil light comes on randomly. The general fix has been to replace the senders and a resistor that sits behind the drivers side foot well panel.

Well low and behold, the resister part is no longer available through Nissan or anyone else. So I have decided to purchase an oil gauge and install that. So my questions are,

a) Can I just run the oil pressure gauge and not worry about the standard ones?
b) What thread is the oil pressure switch? My gauge is 1/8 NPT.
c) I want to connect a temp gauge too but cannot locate where the temp gauge is on the engine? Any help on that one?

Issue 2. My ABS light comes on in the morning when its cold. Not just cold engine but cold outside temperature. During summer it does not happen. Has anyone had this issue? Any solutions?

I think that does it for now. Any and all help much appreciated.

Cheers

Calsonic
Hey mate,

Can't help with the pressure switch issue, although from seeing threads on here to common fix seems to be bypassing the resistor. As for the thread, it is a 1/8" bspt. You should be able to get a brass t piece from repco or similar that has a 1/8" bspt thread on each end (male and female) and a 1/8" npt thread on one side for your pressure gauge sender. That way you can keep the oil pressure switch and fit a sending unit for a gauge too.

I should have said, from memory the crd is supposed to go into limp mode when a certain oil pressure is not reached, so I don't think you'd have any luck bypassing the factory sending units. I've just realised this is in the crd section too and I didn't think they had the resistor in them, I thought it was only on the di motor.

As for a temp gauge, not sure whether you mean oil or coolant temp, but generally coolant temp gauges have a piece fitted in one of the radiator hoses (you have to cut a section out to fit) that holds the sending unit for the gauge. These come in different sizes depending on the diameter of the hose. If you mean an oil temp gauge, normally you can get a sandwich plate to fit between the oil filter and housing, but being a cartridge filter (I'm assuming zd30 here) they won't work.

Can't help with the abs though, sorry. It could be a bit of crap on one of the wheels sensors, but if the light goes out it should mean the system is working.
 
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Discussion Starter #3
Hey mate,

Can't help with the pressure switch issue, although from seeing threads on here to common fix seems to be bypassing the resistor. As for the thread, it is a 1/8" bspt. You should be able to get a brass t piece from repco or similar that has a 1/8" bspt thread on each end (male and female) and a 1/8" npt thread on one side for your pressure gauge sender. That way you can keep the oil pressure switch and fit a sending unit for a gauge too.

I should have said, from memory the crd is supposed to go into limp mode when a certain oil pressure is not reached, so I don't think you'd have any luck bypassing the factory sending units. I've just realised this is in the crd section too and I didn't think they had the resistor in them, I thought it was only on the di motor.

As for a temp gauge, not sure whether you mean oil or coolant temp, but generally coolant temp gauges have a piece fitted in one of the radiator hoses (you have to cut a section out to fit) that holds the sending unit for the gauge. These come in different sizes depending on the diameter of the hose. If you mean an oil temp gauge, normally you can get a sandwich plate to fit between the oil filter and housing, but being a cartridge filter (I'm assuming zd30 here) they won't work.

Can't help with the abs though, sorry. It could be a bit of crap on one of the wheels sensors, but if the light goes out it should mean the system is working.

Thanks for your info. I have not looked to see if the resistor is in my car or not, I just went to Nissan to buy one and was told they are no longer available. I guess I should take a look :) If I do not have one then it's the switches that will need replacing anyway.

I have not heard of putting a sensor into the radiator hose before. I would have thought that would compromise the pressure in the system but I'll search on it and see what I can find.

Thanks for your input.

Cal..
 

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This was the gauge sensor adaptor I used on mine Gauge T-Piece Sender Adaptor Brass 230036 | SAAS Automotive
As for the switches, I'd try removing the connectors and spraying some contact cleaner or similar in there and re connect them. It could be as simple as a bad connection.

I know there's cylinder head temperature warning devices you can get that attach to the outside, but the only coolant ones I've seen go in a hose. They are a bit alloy fitting usually that you put hose clamps on each end so there's no risk of losing cooling system pressure.

The other option is to invest in a Bluetooth OBD2 adaptor, if you have an Android phone and use a engine scanning app, I use torque, which gives you the temperature the ECU is seeing, not just what the factory gauge is showing...
 
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Discussion Starter #5
This was the gauge sensor adaptor I used on mine Gauge T-Piece Sender Adaptor Brass 230036 | SAAS Automotive
As for the switches, I'd try removing the connectors and spraying some contact cleaner or similar in there and re connect them. It could be as simple as a bad connection.

I know there's cylinder head temperature warning devices you can get that attach to the outside, but the only coolant ones I've seen go in a hose. They are a bit alloy fitting usually that you put hose clamps on each end so there's no risk of losing cooling system pressure.

The other option is to invest in a Bluetooth OBD2 adaptor, if you have an Android phone and use a engine scanning app, I use torque, which gives you the temperature the ECU is seeing, not just what the factory gauge is showing...
I've just done some research on the temp adapter. Now I get it. So I can leave the factory one installed as well. I'll get one of them tomorrow. Thanks for the link to the T piece. And Ill check the connectors on the oil sensors too. Cheers

Cal..
 

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Good luck, let us know how you get on anyway. I fitted that gauge adaptor to the pressure sensor port above the starter motor. Hell of a job, but got it in there and haven't had any issues with it. There's just enough room to get the connector back on the factory switch on the end of that adaptor.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Good luck, let us know how you get on anyway. I fitted that gauge adaptor to the pressure sensor port above the starter motor. Hell of a job, but got it in there and haven't had any issues with it. There's just enough room to get the connector back on the factory switch on the end of that adaptor.
I was going to connect it to the lower pressure switch. Should I connect it to the upper one?

Regards

Cal
 

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I'm not sure it matters, I just figured it is away from the turbo heat and had to run less wiring connecting it to that side of the motor... From previous threads it doesn't seem to matter. Although according to the Nissan service manual they are supposed to check engine oil pressure, if required, at a dealer from that port near the starter motor. That sensor on the crd is also a proper "pressure sensor" in that according to the service manual it gives the ECU a different pressure reading in relation to the engine rpm. If this doesn't meet the preset values programmed into the ECU, it is supposed to illuminate the oil can icon on the instrument cluster. It also has 3 wires in the connector, which would indicate it is more than a standard pressure switch.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
I'm not sure it matters, I just figured it is away from the turbo heat and had to run less wiring connecting it to that side of the motor... From previous threads it doesn't seem to matter. Although according to the Nissan service manual they are supposed to check engine oil pressure, if required, at a dealer from that port near the starter motor. That sensor on the crd is also a proper "pressure sensor" in that according to the service manual it gives the ECU a different pressure reading in relation to the engine rpm. If this doesn't meet the preset values programmed into the ECU, it is supposed to illuminate the oil can icon on the instrument cluster. It also has 3 wires in the connector, which would indicate it is more than a standard pressure switch.
I just came across a diagram of oil switch locations that also said to only connect an oil pressure gauge to that position so I guess thats were its going. So everything I have read says its a crap of a job to change it. Do you have any tips that I should know before giving it a go?

Cheers
 

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Go from underneath and hopefully you can work by feel without looking at what you're doing haha.

Nah in all seriousness, it wasn't too bad of a job. Fit the factory pressure sensor in the end of the brass tee first as you won't be able to get to it afterwards. I hope your vocabulary of swear words is good :)

I used thread sealant on the brass fitting, but the thread in the block is tapered, so squeezes it off the threads anyway. I would probably use loctite 567 or similar for the sending units into the brass tee though, just to make sure. I used a permatex product equivalent that super cheap sell that seems to work ok.

Get the brass tee nice and tight on the block and try and face the thread for the pressure gauge sending unit down towards the front as there is more room to get it on there then.

From memory the hex outside of the factory pressure sender is 24 or 25mm and I think the tee was around 18 or 19mm, but can't remember for sure now. You have just for enough room under there without removing anything to get an open ended spanner up from underneath to undo and fit the unit back up.
 

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Go from underneath and hopefully you can work by feel without looking at what you're doing haha.

Nah in all seriousness, it wasn't too bad of a job. Fit the factory pressure sensor in the end of the brass tee first as you won't be able to get to it afterwards. I hope your vocabulary of swear words is good :)

I used thread sealant on the brass fitting, but the thread in the block is tapered, so squeezes it off the threads anyway. I would probably use loctite 567 or similar for the sending units into the brass tee though, just to make sure. I used a permatex product equivalent that super cheap sell that seems to work ok.

Get the brass tee nice and tight on the block and try and face the thread for the pressure gauge sending unit down towards the front as there is more room to get it on there then.

From memory the hex outside of the factory pressure sender is 24 or 25mm and I think the tee was around 18 or 19mm, but can't remember for sure now. You have just for enough room under there without removing anything to get an open ended spanner up from underneath to undo and fit the unit back up.

Thanks for the help and tips. Now I just have to get the Tee piece and a few other bits and pieces. I will replace the oil switch at the same time just cause I might as well :)

Probably wont do it till next weekend if I can get all the bits by then. I'll certainly report back.

Cheers
 
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