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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
hello again got steel winch bar and winch soon and fitting to mk patrol shorty. was wondering if I should try to strengthen where the bar mounts to the chassis before I fit it all
 

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Show us some pics of the bullbar mounts and also the chassis (I'm not familiar with MQ chassis').
 

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I've seen some very poorly designed steel winch bar mounts before, one in particular made by a local towbar manufacturer in Midland, which I would definitely want to strengthen before using a winch in.

It's not wise to assume that anything available on the market is automatically up to the Job.
 

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I need a front recovery point or two. I've got an aluminium bar, need some steel bits. Initial thought was to simply junk the bar and get something made up that I could bolt to the chassis rails, something with some eyes I could put some big bow shackles on, directly in front of the chassis rail ends.

But does anyone sell any recovery plates for the MK that I could bolt on with the bull bar still in place? All I can find are GU ones.
 

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PDC, depending on the strength of your alloy bar, you could always buy some heavy duty Eyelet bolts and bolts them through the alloy, with a huge steel washer on the inside (or better yet, a length of steel plate to incorporate 2 in the 1 length). Just an idea that came up when i had my old ute and a dirty big alloy bar.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
the bar I got is off a gq and is winch compatable only needed little mod to mounts on bar.the bar looks like a old arb or tjm bar not worried about the bar mounts just the chassis part
 

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Good idea - thick bit of steel plate, inside the box section of the alloy, and bolted through both with the eyelets on the outside.

Like your thinking! :)
 

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Good idea - thick bit of steel plate, inside the box section of the alloy, and bolted through both with the eyelets on the outside.

Like your thinking! :)

Hmm that's risky business mate, you're really relying the integrity of the bar mounts and also the strength of the alloy in the area you have the backing plates,, not a good idea.

Also finding adequate eye bolts may be alot harder than you think.

Much better to bolt recovery hooks or plates directly to the chassis.
 

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I've got some hooks, but if I take the bar off I've got a gaping hole.

Good point about the bolts and the existing bar, the w**ker who built the car did a half arsed job of everything else, why should the bar bolts be better than cheap **** and the bar be fixed on properly...

Either way I'll be getting it looked at by someone who knows about these things, I'm happy to admit my ignorance at an earl stage :)
 

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depending on the strength of your alloy bar
I added this for more reason than chit chat. Also when i looked into it, to get eyelets in a rating suited to the job, they were around the $30 a pop.. not cheap for a hunk of steel.
 

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how would it go if you took the bar off got 2 brackets made up
out of say 100x10 mild steel flat bent into like a u shape
it could slip over the end off the chassis and bolt through

that would leave you with the 2 bottoms of the u brackets facing the front of the car.
cut the old brackets off the ali bar because they will be in the way then drill and bolt a suitable rated eye bolt through the bar and bracket all in one so it holds the bar on and is a recovery point.

not sure about the legality of having eye bolts hanging out the front of your bar but plenty of trucks do it so you might get away with it
 

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I'm going to see a guy tomorrow who has an MK with a part made steel bar on it, and I'm going to discuss with him. Seems like the way to go, get something made that is properly fixed to the chassis and then get some rated points on it, either eyes or recovery hooks, I've got a couple in the garage.

As long as it's safe I don't care if it's way OTT for my needs, that just adds to the safety :) More than big enough steel bits and pieces can't be a bad way to go, and has to be better than the bendy bar I've got now.
 
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