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Aargghh!!! My CC Plenum has split along one of the welds, and it's been suggested that i'm best to replace the whole thing (contamination).

Soooooo......
Any suggestions for a3" front inlet TD42 manifold? (UFI20G, DC6 310hp pump, the stupid big CC topmount (front exit), 4" to Turbo)

View attachment 511077


Or do i go for another CC (even though I'm pissed off with this one...)?
Mild to wild fabrications front entry manifold.
511086
 

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Take it to a welding shop and ask them to purge the plenum with argon before they start welding and there will be no contaminants.
If there is **** in the crack then argon purge will not address that. But it is still easily weldable.

If it does not have much blow by then technically there should not be much crap in the manifold. A good spray with a carby type cleaner a clean cut through the crack and another clean it should be good to go. Whatever crap is still in there can be burned out. Any good welded will be able to repair it. It likely won't ever look as pretty as when it was originally done but will still work.

@TheFlyingBadger , how much does the pipework rub on the bonnet.
 

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Sorry thought those marks on the elbow were rub marks. I know with a taller lid lift it gets very hard to get around that corner without hitting everything.
 

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So for those of us looking to build a manifold is there a recommend grade of alloy sheet to use? Also did i read somewhere that pulse mig is preferred over tig welding?
The forum search function is being a pain, unless there is a option to search a single thread that i didn't come across haha
 

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The forum search function is being a pain, unless there is a option to search a single thread that i didn't come across haha
No mate you haven't missed any options. The new format with zero advanced search functions is bloody annoying. I used to spend hours searching stuff from specific user names or threads but now all those advance search options are gone. Google advance search works a lot better than using the search bar on the forum I'm afraid.
 

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SUI GENERIS UTE
GQ Ute 1990 Silvertop
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Any 5 series aluminium is fine i rather 5083 but it doesn't do tight bends hence 15mm radius minimum.
Mig or Tig is fine its just with a tig your skill level needs to be pretty good because the cast manifold can be a bit tricky as the cast can be porous and its difficult to remove any oil contaminates. Also best to blank the holes and use purge argon to make it easier if you are doing a single pass, make sure you do short stagger weld system. I use double pulse fronous Mig and can set it up for high cleaning action with a soft arc i trench and do a single pass in 85mm weld stitch alternate stagger, chipping start and end welds on each stitch. I use a 4 series 1.2 mm wire to make it easier and not to crack due to heat transfer. For both processes i tack weld the flange to a alloy strong back. Pulse Mig can be done without heating the crap out of the manifold so low risk of warping. For a bit more clean action and less risk for blowouts and a smoother more controlled arc i use a Helium Argon mix. Also i might add argon/helium Pulse Tig makes welding alloy fun again when you get rusty like me, starts easier arc is a crap load more stable and more directional and pools easier and faster with better cleaning no black crap floating in the pool on cast. Best part you have a lot easier time with amps needed to start you can nearly start a new stitch with run amps.

My best advice without doing it for you.
 

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@OldMav
Pete in your side entry WTA where is your join position on the curved outer/driver side, I can't find pics in this new format.

Does it blend back in at the upper kink position where we "normally" blend back in with a front entry etc or is it the lower kink just at the top of the bridges between the ports.
512492
td profile.jpg
 

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SUI GENERIS UTE
GQ Ute 1990 Silvertop
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@OldMav
Pete in your side entry WTA where is your join position on the curved outer/driver side, I can't find pics in this new format.

Does it blend back in at the upper kink position where we "normally" blend back in with a front entry etc or is it the lower kink just at the top of the bridges between the ports.
View attachment 512492 View attachment 512492
I have done both positions Fester it doesn't make much difference we still have the miss match of the manifold runner into the head runner. So i usual go the easier path by just cutting on the top kink. It makes it easier to remove the IP compensator cap. If you are attaching the intercooler core directly to the plenum you don't need a lot of space to the back wall but you do need a good radius. I use a 96mm inside radius on the back wall for direction but really you could use less with a direct coupled cooler. If you use a tube in system then you do need every bit of 100mm clearance to the back wall..
 

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I have done both positions Fester it doesn't make much difference we still have the miss match of the manifold runner into the head runner. So i usual go the easier path by just cutting on the top kink. It makes it easier to remove the IP compensator cap. If you are attaching the intercooler core directly to the plenum you don't need a lot of space to the back wall but you do need a good radius. I use a 96mm inside radius on the back wall for direction but really you could use less with a direct coupled cooler. If you use a tube in system then you do need every bit of 100mm clearance to the back wall..
That's what I'm looking to achieve Pete, this is the one I'm helping @RickGQ with and he wants to retain the passenger side tube entry. I'm waiting to hear back on his views on clearance to pump. Here is an overlay of what I had done in 3D, but I'm still to test if I can get in with our press to form it up but I should be able to. I can't easily form a large radius back wall, I don't have any tooling that suits so I played around with a series of 45 degree 1/2" radius bends to get some form or sweep into the back (driver side) wall and this profile also gives me just on 100mm clearance. This leaves me with the smoothest transition back into the manifold at the lower point. Those two short 45 degree segments are only about 30-35mm long. Remember I'm also using the tube entry half out the top of the manifold with a radius blending back in towards the back wall.

Note also that the manifold tapers both in height and width from the centre to the ends so the red profile represents the manifold size/protrusion at the front. Also note minimum lid lift is still in check.
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Ignore the roaring gaps in the transition of the elbow, my 3D is not up to that yet.

Thanks
Gavin
 

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So after trying to read and understand the bulk of this thread (with only modest success) and searching the forums, I'm still unsure of what (if any) decent commercial options there are out there (I was going to build-your-own, but I have too many other projects on the go and I'd rather get this sorted now). I should note that my focus isn't more power/torque, it is to reduce EGTs and have the manifold work with my CC cooler.
The commercial options I can recall being mentioned are:
  • UFI: No longer available (sadly)
  • Plazma Man: An option, but maybe not the best value for money (being diplomatic)
  • Lewis Engines manifold (TD42 Performance intake manifolds): Actually, I don't recall seeing any opinion on this, but the lack of lift at the extremities (if my addled brain recalls correctly) is probably an issue. Also terrifyingly spendy
  • Dillon Logan: I recall that Old Mav saying these work, but there's room for improvement. I've seen an ancient post on the Performance 4x4 Facebook page, but nothing recent, so I'm not sure on availability
  • JRace (JRACE Sheetmetal Intake manifold suit Nissan TD42): Another I've not seen mentioned, but I think a copy of the Dillon Logan design
  • Cross Country: I recall Old Mav saying this had a lot of potential but fell short. I'm still not clear on whether it's a reasonable option or not (the words are swimming in my head). Hearing TheFlyingBadger's had a crack form and CC wasn't flash on support does somewhat put me off on this option.
  • Mild-to-Wild: I'm assuming this is these guys: Mild To Wild 4x4, but am yet to verify if it is and whether they're still doing manifolds. To my untrained eye, this appears an improvement over the CC manifold in so far as having more lift around the runner for #6 cylinder (whether it's the necessary 50mm I'm not sure).
There are also custom options (though I'm only interested/actively pursuing one at the moment).

So as it stands, if I end up going commercial over custom, I'm leaning towards the Mild-to-Wild item (assuming I can lay my hands on one) given the design and ease of fitment with my cooler. Second choice will be Dillon Logan (possibly JRace if I can't get my hands on the DL item), with a final fallback of CC.

Before shelling out coins however, is anyone able to offer corrections or further suggestions on commercially available options?
I'd greatly appreciate advice/assistance.
 

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SUI GENERIS UTE
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I should note that my focus isn't more power/torque, it is to reduce EGTs and have the manifold work with my CC cooler.
I am at a loss as to why you are concerned with reducing EGT's. A manifold usually will increase AFR's which is torque in most cases and usually will help lift AFR's in the top end.
For diesel we want our EGT's to be stable not really lower as such. The safe limit is 750C pre and 550C post turbo. If it was possible to tune for 700C from loaded off idle to 3800RPM that would be ideal but impossible. Diesel requires 2045C flash initial injected temps and above 475psi compression pressure to burn ideally and not produce soot with the maximum gas expansion in combustion to get the maximum possible use from the amount of diesel injected.

So you see its not about low EGT's its about stable EGT's within the limits stated to insure your cast pistons don't melt, Better piston and oil cooling and or better piston material the higher the combustion temps we can have for better efficiency usage of the diesel we inject and closer to 14 AFR we can set our fuel air ratio for to get maximum torque possible from the amount of fuel injected without soot. Soot is crappy diesel burn meaning not enough air for the flame front temps for that combustion pressure.
 
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