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nissan gu iv
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Hey guys, my missus has 2x9" spotties on the bullbar and also bought additional pair of 9" and a 20" light bar for the roof cage, is it possible to run all these through one harness or 3,,, can i tap into the harness for the roof lights or do i have to have a harness for each set, cheers guys, i have no clue here
 

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I hate lights above the bonnet. Unless real slow heavy 4wding. It creates a hase of sorts, reflects off rain, dust and just about all air bourne particles.
Me, personally wouldn't bother unless it 4 night crawling.
 

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nissan gu iv
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Discussion Starter #3
I hate lights above the bonnet. Unless real slow heavy 4wding. It creates a hase of sorts, reflects off rain, dust and just about all air bourne particles.
Me, personally wouldn't bother unless it 4 night crawling.
[/QUO

There for travel mate, we do long distances in hers, mines the bush rig
 

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After Monday and Tuesday, even the calender says W
06 Td42ti cab chassis
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I would go a seperate harness for each unless you are building your own and have a good understanding of what size wire you will need for current draw.
Pretty hard to go past Stedi harnesses. (y)
 

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'14 Y61 ZD30 CRD M/T ST
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It's best to put each on it's own circuit with it's own relay, but you can switch them all with the same switch, if you wanted to. Might be better to have them on separate switches as well though, as this gives you more options at night.
 

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GQ Dual Cab. TD42Ti with fruit.
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Hey guys, my missus has 2x9" spotties on the bullbar and also bought additional pair of 9" and a 20" light bar for the roof cage, is it possible to run all these through one harness or 3,,, can i tap into the harness for the roof lights or do i have to have a harness for each set, cheers guys, i have no clue here
Go back two steps mate. First up, instead of thinking what wiring you need, think about what power you need to run these lights. I assume that these lights are all LED, is that right???

If they are, you need to look at how much current, measured in amps, that each light will draw at 12 volts. Some lights are rated at 14 or even 14.4 volts, but often our vehicles alternators are producing less than this, so it is best to calculate current draw at 12v to allow a margin. And the alternator needs to run ALL electrical systems on your car, not just your lights.

So first up, how many amps do your lights draw, and what is the output of your alternator??

As an example, the Kings 9" LED lights need 16 amps at 12v. And those numbers do not add up to me, I cannot verify their calculations. The old lights used more power, but at least when you checked the numbers they added up - the new ones don't. Looks very dodgy to me.

Even still, for two sets that is 32 amps, plus the lights bar which will be another chunk as well. LED lights have big heat sinks on them, to dissipate the heat they produce. Heat consumes power. Make sure you have enough in your electrical system if you intend to switch them on all together.

Regardless of any of that, in my view even the most efficient lights should all be run on independent circuits, each with their own fuse. A compromise would be to run the roof lights on one circuit. At least then the lights on the bullbar would be separate.
 

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nissan gu iv
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Discussion Starter #7
Ok what ive done mate, the kings on the bullbar are older style and ive run them on their own harness, the 2x9" spotties and 20" light bar are cheap supercheap brand and ive used a separate harness for those, i have just spliced the light bar into the spotties, seems to work fine
 

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After Monday and Tuesday, even the calender says W
06 Td42ti cab chassis
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Turn the roof mounted lights on dj and see if the power wire from the battery to the relay gets hot..If not should be ok.
 

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From My experience with Lighting , the 2 x 9" spotties will suit long straight roads & a single light bar should suffice for a close in wide spread of bright light.
I have a similar set up on mine.

My 2 x spotties are on their own relay cct , & the light bar is on its own separate cct.

I agree with GQShayne - current draw is the limiting factor & posted LED current requirements often don't add up too well according to Ohms Law
Considering LED's should really draw Stufff-all current.....

P=VI ( Power in watts = Voltage (12v) x Current )

The higher the Current required , the thicker the cable needed ( always good to play it safe too & make sure your gauge of cable is up to par - thick enough to handle current draw at full load )

Regards
Bull
 

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GQ Dual Cab. TD42Ti with fruit.
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From My experience with Lighting , the 2 x 9" spotties will suit long straight roads & a single light bar should suffice for a close in wide spread of bright light.
I have a similar set up on mine.

My 2 x spotties are on their own relay cct , & the light bar is on its own separate cct.

I agree with GQShayne - current draw is the limiting factor & posted LED current requirements often don't add up too well according to Ohms Law
Considering LED's should really draw Stufff-all current.....

P=VI ( Power in watts = Voltage (12v) x Current )

The higher the Current required , the thicker the cable needed ( always good to play it safe too & make sure your gauge of cable is up to par - thick enough to handle current draw at full load )

Regards
Bull
Yeah, if you calculate the current draw on the Kings stuff based on 3w LED's it doesn't compute, but neither do 5w. Looks dodgy to me.

The first version Kings lights used 31.6 amps at 12v for the pair. LED lights are getting more efficient, but those figures they quote look dodgy.
 
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