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nissan
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi Guys ,
Having more or less sorted my adic motor problems it turns out that there are more issues than that. The starter motor cable is getting hot, now I thought that that might be a "poor cable" problem, but no, it turns out (after stripping the motor down) that the actuator solenoid on the starter whilst throwing in adequately AND connecting the power, was doing it through a high resistance connection in the end of the solenoid. I suspect that it's mucky inside, but you can't get them apart to clean them so i tried to get a new one, nah! I'm being told from all quarters that they are not available.
I'm just north of Brisbane, does anyone know where I can get one, or has anyone got round this problem some other way.
The starter is an s13-80d. Does a solenoid from something else fit?
Thanks
Rob.
 

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MK Wagon, and an SD33T in pieces...
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Not sure how helpful this is, because my engine is moved forwards 20mm from the factory position, as well as I've got a 2" body lift, but we were able to adapt a TD42 starter motor to my engine. The throwout, pinion diameter and tooth count, as well as 1 of the bolt holes and the locating hole, are all almost identical specs to the SD starter, and with the other 2 holes modified to suit the engine it bolts on and works well. It's a geared motor and designed to turn the big 4.2 so easily starts the SD. Also much cheaper than an ebay SD starter.

Again my engine placement due to the conversion as well as the body lift probably make this more achievable for me, but if you were willing to modify the holes differently to turn the starter to where the solenoid is on top, you'd essentially have it sorted.

There's 2 TD starter designs that are slightly different shape-wise.
Here's the original write up where we used the one with a more intrusive solenoid:

And here's a thread I made originally asking if I could use only 2 of the bolts, but later when I went to put it on I found the bracing did not intrude on the new bolt hole, and this style starter actually clears the firewall much better than the old one.
I don't have a good picture of it, but you can see the silhouette clears the firewall much better in this picture:
Motor vehicle Vehicle Automotive exterior Automotive design Gas
 

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Y62
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2,628 Posts
Have you tried Ashdowns for replacement parts?

An old school auto electrician should be able to remove the cap. We use to have a tool that would unroll the metal housing so you clean or replace the contacts. Might pay to try contacting a few to see if they can do it. You will want to try the larger older business that have workshops. Not the ones that just want to fit new starters.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Thanks guys for the input. I've been worrying this for over a week full time and yeh, with no success whatsoever (for replacement parts that is), so I decided to get a bit more radical with it.
What I'm about to do is take a solenoid from a much later unrelated starter (I think it might be NH Pajero).
In my starter body the plunger needs to throw about 6mm more than the than the gear will allow, so what I'm going to do is cut off the existing eye on the end of the plunger and fabricate another eye, 6mm longer and weld it in place of the original eye.
I'll keep you informed as to the progress (and effectiveness) of my "fix".
Rob.
 
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