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Discussion Starter #1
Hi Guys,

Ive got a new rebuilt motor and am ready to start it this weekend... I have heard of a procedure where by you need to pack the oil pickup so when you crank the motor you get rid of that air gap so oil can be collected from the bottom of the sump?

Is this what you have to do or can i just fill it up with oil and just start cranking and watch my gauge for oil pressure?
 

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The nutty professor
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you should be able to just start it, everyting should be put together with an assembly lube, obviously if the oil pressure doesnt build after 20 or so secs then i would turn it off
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Yes, the engine has assembly lube all over.. but obviously being a new motor just needed some advice prior to stuffing a perfectly good motor.

Ill give that a go, thanks for the advice fellas!
 

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nissan
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There should be some sort of stop solenoid on the pump. Pull this off then crank it over for 10 x 10s with a 30 sec break between.

Then reconnect the solenoid and start the donk proper. Dont let it idle but bring it to 1500rpm and hold it there letting it fall to idle every minute till it idles smooth. Then drive it as you normally would. After 1000kms change the oil.

Only use a mineral oil for the first two changes then go to a synthetic to allow everything to bed in.
 

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nissan patrol gu
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build up of oil pressure.

As stated above .. PLUS ..

To unload the starter.... take the glow plugs out. Starter will not be against compression, will rotate a bit faster and battery crank amps will be much lower.
Warning - don't leave anything near the glow plug holes as it may or can be sucked in to the engine..

My 2 bobs worth
 
nissan patrol y60
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I usually disconnect pump and crank until oil light goes out
 

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nissan
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When you are running it in, don't be scared to drive it, you will need the rings to bed into the bores and a good boost level will help to sort this out, the boost gets behind the rings and forces them against the bore. You don't need to thrash it to get the boost up, we used to load a trailer with a transit van and tow that for a few miles and load the engine up.

As above use only mineral oil, synthetic is too slippery and you will glaze the bores. Monitor the oil after you change it, or even take a sample after about half an hours running and then every hour till you see clean oil, this will give you an idea as to how clean the engine is.

Good luck.
 

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benno and q are on the money. Glow plugs out, fuel cut solenoid and crank over till you get oil pressure, when you get pressure,keep cranking for a little bit if you want just to make sure oil has gotten all around the engine.

then start her up and hold it off idol 1500 or something like that so it has plenty of oil pressure, keep eye on coolent temp,will get warm quick but shouldnt get really hot.

once it reaches operating temp you can turn it off and let it cool down again..... then once cooled,warm her back up a little then take her for a spin.... dont rev it to high though...go for a cruse for 20 mins and she should be all good.

wouldnt tow weight whilst shes breaking in though
 

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nissan patrol
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Actually towing is a good way to bed the rings in. Especially diesel they love a bit of load. We had trucks at work that glazed up the cylinders because they were hauling lite loads.
 

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Have to agree with Maidenfan and with Oilrigs last attachment, from first hand experience.
I purchased my rig new 11 years and 205,000kms ago and had to drive it home from Coffs Harbour to Brisbane with a 2.2ton caravan in tow (not current rig).
Doesn't seem to have caused it any harm as I have never yet had to add any oil between oil changes and she has consistently returned around 26mpg normal touring, not towing.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Thanks Fellas for all the feed back -

ill hopefully be priming her up today and starting her after a long 5 months of work. Lets hope we see some oil pressure :)

Ill update the post tonight.

Cheers Oz
 
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