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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi guys, searched but could not find info I was after, I am after pics and info on what people have done to strengthen standard control arms, drag link and tie rod, I have previously made heavy duty arms on my gq by cutting arm and sleeving the tube, I am after any different ideas such as using angle iron on bottom and flat bar welded vertically on top of rear arms .then if there is info on sleeving the tie rod and drag link, I appreciate help cheers.
 

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I sleeved my panhards inside and out when I went 5" lift. Ive also sleeved on the outside only my hd longer rear lower control arms with square tubing lol. I couldnt get round in the correct size. They are very strong but look a bit stupid
 

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That was the go back before these so call heavy duty arms were available on the market. 90 degree angled welded at short intervals along the length of the bar worked well. Nothing is bullet proof but at least it gives a bit more protection and resistance to hard knocks.
 

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Nissan Safari
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Back in NZ I sleeved my steering tie rod with pipe used for fire sprinklers in buildings. Pretty tuff pipe. My lower control arms were strengthened with angle iron the complete length. The sharp part of the angle pointing down so it would cut into dirt etc. The rear panhard I did the same with angle iron. Never had to strengthen the front panhard or drag link. Only had 3" lift and 40mm body lift. Ran 35's.
 

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Heavy duty arms are readily available these days and are quite cheap, especially when you consider that there is every chance that you'll have to replace the bushes in your arms after you've welded them.
 

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Not really that cheap when you have to replace them after they have bent, but thats the nature of the beast. Take your chances with home made jobbies or buy heavy duty items of which both still have possibility of bending just a little less likely compared with standard arms.

Still reeling over my so called heavy duty tie rod thats bent.
 

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Not really that cheap when you have to replace them after they have bent, but thats the nature of the beast. Take your chances with home made jobbies or buy heavy duty items of which both still have possibility of bending just a little less likely compared with standard arms.

Still reeling over my so called heavy duty tie rod thats bent.
Can I ask what brand? or can you give a hint? Interested as I have just bought a 4340 comp spec one and it wasn't particularly cheap!
 

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Can I ask what brand? or can you give a hint? Interested as I have just bought a 4340 comp spec one and it wasn't particularly cheap!
Yes it was a Superior comp spec heavy duty bought in 2010. The bend is not bad but its bent none the less, if it had of been a standard arm I would imagine it could have been a night spent in the bush. Fact is I don't even know what I hit or where, I only discovered it while under neath greasing everything up.

I won't bother trying to straighten it as it is still functional but would not be doing my toe -in/out wheel alignment any favours, just replace it and maybe look into the under body armour plates if they are still available. Thanks for the PM from the private party with there dealings and recommendations.
 

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Not really that cheap when you have to replace them after they have bent, but thats the nature of the beast. Take your chances with home made jobbies or buy heavy duty items of which both still have possibility of bending just a little less likely compared with standard arms.

Still reeling over my so called heavy duty tie rod thats bent.

I have bent a Superior hd comp spec chromo tie rod aswell, but that one was purchased back in 2007 and I think they're tougher now.
I replaced it with a Roadsafe compspec unit which has copped probably more punishment and is still straight.
 

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We build these at our workshop and have been since 2005. We got the original struts given to us years ago from Nissan Rally Team from Japan when they needed a radiator cap we exchanged the cap and got the used struts. We just made it a little better by doing some heat seating. We also included lower skid plates that fit on the lower left and right strut. We never had issues with bending and even sent a set over to Qatar for a rally and got 100% feed back as perfect. Depending on your lift you need to change the metal and the design. This type is only suitable up to 2". We also build the box type up to 2" but they cost a lot of money to make.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Thanks guys, any pics of various set ups/arms? my bushes all need doing anyway so that's why I would like to strengthen the arms now, I know all arms are readily available but I can't justify spending ~$1200 odd on upgraded arms that I can do myself for couple $100 , and I know what goes into my own work so I have peace of mind that its done ok, I've seen racebred 4x4 do boxed arms, just contemplating style/design ATM , what jigs have people made to ensure correct offset angle of bushes? Thanks again
 

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For a given weight and dimension round will always be stronger than square, so I'd recommend pipe over box.
You don't need to set up a jig, just set the angle correctly before welding.
 

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once I welded angle iron to the lower control arms and rear panhard they NEVER bent again. The bushes never stuffed out when welding As I never applied heat near the bush.
 
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