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Discussion Starter #1
WELL! had alot happen with the GQ test rig so it never got these arms fitted. Ive had them for around a month now and i believe when i got them i was one of the first to get the non superflex style "hybrid" arms.

Fast forward to monday just been, ive got a GUIV 4.8 ST-l, bog stock except a factory roof basket*and marks where it looks like a set of rear drawers have lived in its past life. Monday was a big day with all the superior gear i have on the GQ being transferred onto the GU and finally the fitment of the new arms.

Now this wont be as accurate as if it was on the GQ as the GU had standard soft, rolly, bouncy suspension and the GQ was firm yet plush, so the initial ride quality seemed very firm to say the least.

The arms on the new car dont feel as plush as i thought, i thought with the new arms the car would be soft and controlled and basically unreasonably awesome. The reality is, the arms make the patrol feel like a landcruiser solid axle on road bumps etc.. its Just a little bit more controlled and it doesnt feel like the patrol has to "push" through bumps. HOWEVER, braking, WOW! the car doesnt feel like its trying to overtake the front axle anymore, it actually dips the nose a little which is a new thing in my patrol experience and makes braking alot better than standard.

Offroad (limited so far) its a whole new car, The big bumps are where the arms shine, it just rolls straight over like it is nothing. cutting a round about short and going over the gutter is smoother than most north queensland roads. flex is improved enough that my 3" amadas on 2 inch springs are the limiting factor, even though these arms arent meant to improve flex. to put it in a single phrase " the front feels like the back" and as most know, patrol ass ends are quite a comfortable ride. after the front wheels return to ground (its hard enough to get them to leave with these arms) the car doesnt roll or smash into the ground, just smoothly contacts and continues on with life.

Lastly, i havent got holes drilled in my arms for sway bar and ABS lines... I think everyone should get them done if you have ABS. the material is hard as **** and i wish i wasnt so impatient. although, i dont see the need for a front swaybar as it doesnt roll much with just the rear one in.

will see how the week pans out, i might get some actual 4wding in this weekend if i can find some and see how the arms go with a real offroad test.

Now i just gotta find the clunk in my rear end after changing all my gear over.

good work Superior engineering, the arms do a good job of controlling a 3 tonne hunk of **** off road like they were designed to.
 

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nissan
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Couldn't agree more. I've had mine in for two weeks now and love them so far. I am a bit concerned about the top of the arms hitting the drop boxes though at full bump. Makes a nice change from factory arms and drop boxes. ImageUploadedByTapatalk1369992831.289977.jpg
This is next to some other arms my brother was building for me. ImageUploadedByTapatalk1369992874.506171.jpg
Next to the old setup. ImageUploadedByTapatalk1369992900.644915.jpg ImageUploadedByTapatalk1369992930.882755.jpg ImageUploadedByTapatalk1369992960.398317.jpg
It's very close to hitting with the bump stops only compressed 20mm.
Over all very happy with them.
 

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BORDERTREK 4X4 & FABRICATION
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Easy^ extend your bumpstops with spacers or get longer ones

Or to save customers hassles down the track Superior could put an upside down arch built into the rear of the arms so they clear. Wouldn't need much
 

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Easy^ extend your bumpstops with spacers or get longer ones

Or to save customers hassles down the track Superior could put an upside down arch built into the rear of the arms so they clear. Wouldn't need much
or mouse hole / notch the mount plate above the arm.
 

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nissan
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Lowering bump stops is not the right way to solve the problem because I actually like up travel. They have a little cut out in the dropbox but I need to be made bigger to actually allow the arm to tuck up into it as the panhard moves the diff across at full bump.
 

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You shouldn't need to do anything to avoid clearance issues considering how much money you've paid for them.
They should be thoroughly tested before being sold to the public.
 

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The ome front bumpstops only compress a total of 30mm. So should be all good.


Yeah and 10mm of movement at the axle end would probably only equal 1mm at the chassis end, so it could probably still accommodate another 100mm of compression at the bumpstop.

I'm sure Superior have done a thorough job of designing and testing this product.
 

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Yeah and 10mm of movement at the axle end would probably only equal 1mm at the chassis end, so it could probably still accommodate another 100mm of compression at the bumpstop.

I'm sure Superior have done a thorough job of designing and testing this product.
I tried every combination i could in the design stage and that is partly why they took soooooo long to release. I kept detailed measurements and photos of all possible setups (or so i thought) and allowed heaps. But I have seen a few oddballs that I could not explain, although usually the guys are getting every bit of travel possible and have heaps of flex as well. As you mentioned 1 or 2 mm down that end is 50-60mm at the diff, and generally to maximise travel for a particular panhard/spring and bumpstop combination a small chamfer could be a solution on the bottom of the drop box. Should you have to do it? well if everything is new and perfectly adjusted then no, but sometimes a simple fix can be a better option. The first time I ever heard of a clearance issue I immediately got the GU7 test rig and fitted 3 different sets of arms, removed the shocks and pushed the diff until 15mm of compression on the bumps, and found that I still had adequate clearance. So for the life of me I could not pinpoint what was the dimensional issue.

Hope that helps.
Greg
 

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I tried every combination i could in the design stage and that is partly why they took soooooo long to release. I kept detailed measurements and photos of all possible setups (or so i thought) and allowed heaps. But I have seen a few oddballs that I could not explain, although usually the guys are getting every bit of travel possible and have heaps of flex as well. As you mentioned 1 or 2 mm down that end is 50-60mm at the diff, and generally to maximise travel for a particular panhard/spring and bumpstop combination a small chamfer could be a solution on the bottom of the drop box. Should you have to do it? well if everything is new and perfectly adjusted then no, but sometimes a simple fix can be a better option. The first time I ever heard of a clearance issue I immediately got the GU7 test rig and fitted 3 different sets of arms, removed the shocks and pushed the diff until 15mm of compression on the bumps, and found that I still had adequate clearance. So for the life of me I could not pinpoint what was the dimensional issue.

Hope that helps.
Greg


I hear you there, every now and then a truck comes along with unexplained discrepancies. I've measured chassis' before between suspension mounts with up to 8mm discrepancy.
 

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After a big weekend out on the tracks I'm glad to say there are no marks on the arms to suggest they were hitting. I will keep an eye in it as the rear bush wears. They make an unreal difference to ride harshness.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
mine have the same mark on the drop box. Im almost certain its from installation as ive now jumped my 3 tonne guiv and it didnt hit it, ive flexed so the shock was bottoming out both ways and it doesnt touch. I am however waiting for my new panhard to arrive as i can see the whole diff sits across slightly ith my 2 inch lift and this i feel has pushed the arms across slightly.

but agree, the ride quality is heaps better now with the new arms.
 

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mine have the same mark on the drop box. Im almost certain its from installation as ive now jumped my 3 tonne guiv and it didnt hit it, ive flexed so the shock was bottoming out both ways and it doesnt touch. I am however waiting for my new panhard to arrive as i can see the whole diff sits across slightly ith my 2 inch lift and this i feel has pushed the arms across slightly.

but agree, the ride quality is heaps better now with the new arms.
So can these be made for 2 inch lifts? And can they be made legal like the original superflex arms?
 

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How much lower do they sit than std arms?
I don't know,, whatever the height of the drop boxes is i suppose, i'd guess about 75mm?

It's their location that makes them more likely to hang you up than normal drop boxes.

Actually these ones may not be so bad, but i've seen some fitted pics of the other brand of Hybrid arms that another company is selling at the moment and they looked ridiculously low.
The pics were in sombodys build thread on here today, but i didn't want to make a negative comment in their members thread.

Nobody seems to be bringing it up as an issue yet (as is usually the case untill a product has been on the market for a while), but i know they'd be a massive pain in the arse with the sort of wheeling i do,, my mates with standard drop boxes already have enough problems with getting hung up on them.

Superflex drop arms are the go for very rugged terrain in my opinion.

They'd be good on a race truck though.
 

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I don't know,, whatever the height of the drop boxes is i suppose, i'd guess about 75mm?

It's their location that makes them more likely to hang you up than normal drop boxes.

Actually these ones may not be so bad, but i've seen some fitted pics of the other brand of Hybrid arms that another company is selling at the moment and they looked ridiculously low.
The pics were in sombodys build thread on here today, but i didn't want to make a negative comment in their members thread.

Nobody seems to be bringing it up as an issue yet (as is usually the case untill a product has been on the market for a while), but i know they'd be a massive pain in the arse with the sort of wheeling i do,, my mates with standard drop boxes already have enough problems with getting hung up on them.

Superflex drop arms are the go for very rugged terrain in my opinion.

They'd be good on a race truck though.
I know what your saying and do agree, but for ride quality and handling both on and off road I personally believe any lift over 3" drop boxes are a must.

Im in the process now of installing these Hybrid arms replacing my old drop boxes which sat at 85mm below chassis with these 80 series drop boxes at 75mm its a 10mm difference. Thats including the 8mm for there base plate acting as cross member spacing of which cross member sits at 50mm below chassis. 25mm between cross member and drop boxes is not a lot but can be the difference between forward or reward movement.

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Old drop boxes at 85mm standard Nissan mount.


New 80 series Hybrid mounts at 75mm.

For the few times that my old drop boxes made contact, a little bit more right foot, better line or some track building never stopped it. When I've had to winch it wouldn't matter drop boxes or not, winching is required.
 
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