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Discussion Starter #1
Hi all,

Just got gq less than a month now. Previous owner put a new Carby in, but don't think it's been tuned properly.
Everything runs fine with no problem but car seems to suck more petrol than it should be.
Currently seeing about 30-40L per 100km.

Only driving to and back from work about 70ks a week.

Anyone got any ideas??
 

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Mine was getting getting around 35l per 100 of mostly hwy ks
I did end up discovering that the choke was sucking closed but I don't believe that ended up making that much of a difference in the end they are just very poor on lt/klm
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Ahh ok. I've read a few posts here where people are getting 18 to 24 litres /100kms.
Might look around the forum to see.
 

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18 to 24 is ussually of the EFI models I thought. And this I hear of only when they are close to stock.
My Tb42E auto will be 24lts/100kms around town and about 20/100kms on the high way.
35lts/100kms is normal for a lifted with some fair sized tyre.
Once again this is from what I read and hear. The TB42 and TB42E are not good on fuel, but are mighty fun and easy to work on.
 

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You can get just as good fuel eco from a carby model if it's tuned correctly and kept in tune mine was manual gearbox 2" lift alloy winch bar with winch 32" A/T tyres. Also I would recommend 32" tyres max height I found them to be the best size to suit when I had a petrol I done mostly hwy driving so 31" would probably suit if mot of the driving was city. Mine would use 24lph towing a 1986 16'6 pop top van at 100kph the old vans are very light compared to the new vans at around 1t tare they're lighter than most camper trailers. So yes do some reasearch and if the motor is mechanically sound and you drive it like a 4wd and not a race car you should see a big improvement.
 

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Hi all,

Just got gq less than a month now. Previous owner put a new Carby in, but don't think it's been tuned properly.
Everything runs fine with no problem but car seems to suck more petrol than it should be.
Currently seeing about 30-40L per 100km.

Only driving to and back from work about 70ks a week.

Anyone got any ideas??
1st Troll was an auto TB42 on lpg. Around town to work and back (hilly area) was usually 30 - 35 litres/100k LPG (which is equal in cost to 18 - 21 L/100k petrol or diesel.)
Fitted a TC lockup and manual override and could get 18 L/100km LPG on a run pretty easy = same cost as 11 L/100k on petrol or diesel.
 

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I average about 18l per 100km in my 1990 GQ TB42 4.2 l petrol(350000+kms). Fitted electronic ignition kit many years ago. Makes a huge difference in starting, seems to run much better. I have managed to get 600kms out of a tank(95ltrs) on a long run. Carby overhauled couple of years ago, also replaced vacuum hoses( getting leaky).
I have been recording fuel usage for quite a few years so I 'm pretty sure about the average. I would suggest that 70kms a week is the problem. The auto choke will still be putting a lot of fuel in till it gets hot enough.
I found years ago that the auto choke speed was way too high and readjusted it to be much lower. Its the short trips that suck up the most fuel also. For 70kms a week I would suggest a bike!
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Yea I know these suck alot of petrol but does seem abit excessive.
Did you just go wreckers for the hoses? Or buy them new.
 

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My best out of a manual TB42 was 15L/100km at a steady 90km/h. That had an MSD6A, which helped enormously at light throttle. My TB42E can pull 15L/100km easily on the highway however.
 

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My best out of a manual TB42 was 15L/100km at a steady 90km/h. That had an MSD6A, which helped enormously at light throttle. My TB42E can pull 15L/100km easily on the highway however.
90kph and a light steady throttle (possibly downhill with a tailwind). Sounds like you're a good driver too.
Dear old dad always reckoned that anything over 50mph was just a way to burn excess fuel.
Those were the days of HK Kingswoods and XT Falcons, but the overall body shape of a GQ isn't much different to those old beasts in wagon format.
Most economical run in the GQ auto was near lake Eyre at night heading toward William creek. co-incidentally at around 80kph (50mph) being wary of wildlife.
 

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I've owned both manual and auto in the TB 42., carbed abd EFI. First was a manual, the original '89 Maverick. That was consistently good for 20 mpg in the old numbers, 14l/100k. Towing 16ft tinny loaded up was around 20/100. There were a number of Patrols in our town at the same time--Maverick had 750/16s, Patrols had the wider 15" rims, they were always complaining they were only getting 16-17mpg , which actually is about the same in l/100km. Then we bought the 95 EFI when it was first released, with the 16 x 8 rims, that got about the same as the original carb'd Patrols.
My last Petrol was a late 90's Auto, converted from new to a dual cab. Easily the thirsiest, and a bit of a slug, due to being overgeared, you drove with one hand on the shifter clicking od in and out in hilly country. Very good on the flat with a tailwind. ;) And, as a previous postermentioned, they all have the aerodynamics of a housebrick, so any attempt at speed is just fruitless.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Hey guys I think I've fixed the issue. The auto choke was left fully turned to the rich setting. Which left the butterfly fully opened.

Will leave an update on the coming days on the fuel consumption.

Cheers

Before and after shot
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Ok guys I leaned out the auto choke. Now car doesn't start in the morning. Any ideas?? Will only start if I put a little bit of petrol down the Carby.
 

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Ok - Auto choke should be on when cold and fully off when the top tank of the radiator is warm. So if you wind it fully off when hot, you've gone too far. Adjust it first thing in the morning when cold so it's ONLY JUST closed, and check it opens fully when warm.
There is a thermo spring that winds the choke off - basis is that as the spring gets warm it unwinds and rotates the choke off. From memory (now own a efi) there is a power wire that feeds current into the thermo spring when the ignition is on, so cold setting adjust without turning on the ignition

If it doesn't start in the morning, pump the accelerator 5x - 6x and wait 10x seconds before hitting the starter.
Most of us old schoolers know this trick for starting older cars (especially Valiants). Pumping the throttle works the accelerator fuel plunger, which squirts raw fuel into the throat of the carby. Waiting 10 seconds give the fuel time to vaporize so you don't flood the engine with raw fuel, only rich mixture.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Alright so I've turned the auto choke back to the original position this morning. Pumped the accelerator but doesn't sound like fuel it's wanting to come up.
 
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