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Okay fellas, update it maybe completely useless but going back to the possibility of a fuel issue I changed out the back fuel filter again with a clear one, my guess return line? And had the car running for 5-10 minutes and it stayed bone dry is that normal?
Haven't seen a carby engine with a fuel return line,only a vent to the charcoal canister or the tank breather,which usually has a small filter to keep dust out of the tank.If the tank breather was blocked,you will hear it suck then the fuel cap is released after running for a while.This would lead to fuel starvation corresponding to how hard you pedal it,not at any particular time,temp etc.You could check this by taking it for a run then releasing the cap,listening for the vacuum release.
From your symptom description,I suspect it is electrical and agree with Peter Connan,run a bypass wire clipped direct to the coil,

Cheers,G.
 

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G'day fellas, just seen this post and signed up, I had same problem in my carby gq with pertronix 1, it ended up being power wire between coil and dissy had burnt out inside insulation, every time I hit bump or turned corner it was cutting out and everything died, put pertronix 2 in it, everything was good, thats when i found broken wire, wierd I now, but that was the problem
 

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Discussion Starter #23
Haven't seen a carby engine with a fuel return line,only a vent to the charcoal canister or the tank breather,which usually has a small filter to keep dust out of the tank.If the tank breather was blocked,you will hear it suck then the fuel cap is released after running for a while.This would lead to fuel starvation corresponding to how hard you pedal it,not at any particular time,temp etc.You could check this by taking it for a run then releasing the cap,listening for the vacuum release.
From your symptom description,I suspect it is electrical and agree with Peter Connan,run a bypass wire clipped direct to the coil,

Cheers,G.
Cheers mate, I did end figuring out it wasn't a return line, I just assumed it was at the time and confused the crap out of myself in the process haha.

Okay slick benfmtassy Tommory I'll inspect and probably replace the pertronics wires, it is the pertronics 1 that I have! Big thanks guys I'll let you know how I go!
 

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Years ago I thought I had the same issue replaced the pertonix still had an issue.

Possible causes

Leads
Faulty coil
Loose car by, Rome the air filter assembly, grab the top of the car by- any movement
 

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Does yours have mechanical or electric fuel pump?

If it is a mechanical pump, there should be a return line going from the pump to the tank, but there's no filter in that line.

If it's electrical, then a wiring problem on the pump might cause issues. I still think from your description the problem is in the ignition circuit somewhere though.
 

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Discussion Starter #26
It's a mechanical pump, I did see and follow that line back to the tank, seems to be working fine, I changed the connecting wires for the coil from the pertronics, It still does it. I'm going to switch coils, and possibly buy a new pertronics ignition
 

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Get a pertonix flame thrower cool, standard ones can fail intermittently and then completely when running pertonix - higher current
 

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Discussion Starter #29
I've ordered a 3.0ohm flame thrower coil it should be here this week and I'll take the bus for a run and let you guys know the outcome 👍
 

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Discussion Starter #30
Fitted the flame thrower coil today, definitely noticed a difference, it drove very nice, I didn't have any issues with stalling, I'll keep you guys posted with the outcome, should I change the plug gaps or leave them be?
 

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Good to hear that you've got a resolution to your problem. I'd personally just stick with factory plug gaps, but the more knowledgeable may have a different opinion on this.


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Discussion Starter #32
Weeeeelll I still have the same issue, took it out today and done it twice within 50m. Once warming up and second when I pulled out the drive way, okay cool Ill keep the gaps as standard 👍
 

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Discussion Starter #35
I ended up wiring the coil to a switch on the dash that goes straight to the battery and so far no problems, big thanks to everybody!
 

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Been watching this with interest to see what the final problem was.
Chasing electrical problems is like trying to catch ghosts.
Hope you've finally got it . .... Time will tell.
If it's going good or you find what the problem is - please let us know.
 

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Discussion Starter #37
So it's going really good so far with that coil switch and new flame thrower coil, I definitely agree about finding the issue I've driven it about 80km so far with no issues at all. I'm taking the misso and young fella out to the lake Tommory I'll let you know how it goes 👌👌
 

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Discussion Starter #38
Been watching this with interest to see what the final problem was.
Chasing electrical problems is like trying to catch ghosts.
Hope you've finally got it . .... Time will tell.
If it's going good or you find what the problem is - please let us know.
Alrighty I took the family out to the lake but just before we got there as I slowing down to a intersection it stalled and backfired like I key banged it, then when we got to the lake it done it once more stalled out for a second, I guess Ill have to keep looking and I'll purchase a new ignition switch this arvo
 

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Discussion Starter #39
I'm very familiar with the saying "they either work or they don't" when it comes to pertronix but I starting to point the finger at this might be my issue, I pulled the ignitor out and cleaned under the base of it there was little bit of oil and refitted it, I'm looking on the internet for any insight and came across this. I might buy a new kit, I have version 1 but unsure if I should try the ignitor2?
 

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GHMBC #3
nissan patrol gq lwb,3"lift.
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Have you removed ballast resistor to get 12v continuous? If not you a running on 9v

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