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...but want/feel they should be better. Well not the brakes themselves, but the pedal. They work fine but I would like a better pedal feel.
This is exactly what I want as well. I can make my brakes stop but have to reeeeally push on them...
Me too...

Zoltan, great thread. Any updates?

I have asked every mechanic that will listen to me about Patrol brake pedal response.
The typical answer is "that's just how Patrols are".
I have accepted this until recently.

I recently bought my wife a td42t GU (build feb 2000). It has awesome brakes! Firm pedal, very responsive, stops really well.
My GU (build dec 1999) has the spongy soft unresponsive pedal i am used to in GUs. I have spent a fair bit of money upgrading discs/pads on this one. It stops well but crap pedal feel.

Master cyl and booster on both vehicles appear identical and have the same numbers.
I emailed Nizzbits both vins for him to check for differences in braking systems. Nothing different.

I can't imagine what makes such a big difference in braking between two seemingly identical vehicles.

Since I don't want to start taking the brakes off my wife's car and putting them on mine i hope you guys figure out the answer!

I'll see if i can find the brake reports...
 

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This is from the one that stops really well with great pedal feel...
The docket is too faint to scan. Here's the info:

Front-Back Deceleration
Peak: 88%
Average: 68%

Left-Right Acceleration
Peak: 18%
Vehicles pulls: LEFT

Test speed: 51 km/h
Stopping Dist: 15.1 m
Brake Efficiency: 67%


It doesn't mean much to me. Hope it helps someone get better brakes.
 

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nissan gu td42ti
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Discussion Starter #104
Me too...

Zoltan, great thread. Any updates?

I have asked every mechanic that will listen to me about Patrol brake pedal response.
The typical answer is "that's just how Patrols are".
I have accepted this until recently.

I recently bought my wife a td42t GU (build feb 2000). It has awesome brakes! Firm pedal, very responsive, stops really well.
My GU (build dec 1999) has the spongy soft unresponsive pedal i am used to in GUs. I have spent a fair bit of money upgrading discs/pads on this one. It stops well but crap pedal feel.

Master cyl and booster on both vehicles appear identical and have the same numbers.
I emailed Nizzbits both vins for him to check for differences in braking systems. Nothing different.

I can't imagine what makes such a big difference in braking between two seemingly identical vehicles.

Since I don't want to start taking the brakes off my wife's car and putting them on mine i hope you guys figure out the answer!

I'll see if i can find the brake reports...
This is from the one that stops really well with great pedal feel...
The docket is too faint to scan. Here's the info:

Front-Back Deceleration
Peak: 88%
Average: 68%

Left-Right Acceleration
Peak: 18%
Vehicles pulls: LEFT

Test speed: 51 km/h
Stopping Dist: 15.1 m
Brake Efficiency: 67%


It doesn't mean much to me. Hope it helps someone get better brakes.
Hi Dylan.
Sorry for the late reply. Been Tuna fishing for tha last few days.

Alot (not all) of mechanics have that attitude because they are just parts changers and can't think out of the box. Or just can't be stuffed mucking around with stuff like that as there is not much money in giving advice. Some don't even know that a proportioning valve exists. Sad to say.
If you are wating it seriously checked then I would suggest taking it to a brake specialist. They will know so much more.

I tried to find your truck on the forum but couldn't quickly find much info. I was trying to find out if your truck was lifted at all. If it is then I would kind of direct my efforts towards the proportioning valve at the rear. Mine felt the same until I disconnected the spring totally. That's when mine passed. I also changed the main brakelines to braided ones. I also did a brake fluid transfusion.

Brake fluid transfusion is a good idea every now & then to drive out hidden bubbles. This is how I do it. You might already know how to do this. If you do then it might help another forum member anyway. :)

Buy some brake fluid that is a different colour to your existing one in the truck.
Get a transparent hose that can fit over the bleed nipple at the wheels tightly . Long enough to reach the bottom of an empty water bottle whilst sitting on the floor. Connect the hose to the furthest nipple from the master cylinder first which is the left rear wheel bleed nipple. Loosen the nipple, get someone to keep topping up the master cylinder up. Make sure that the hose sits close to the bottom of the bottle so that when you start pumping your brake pedal, it fills & drives any air out of the hose so that it doesn't suck air back when lifting your pedal back up. Keep pumping until you see the new coloured fluid push through the transparent hose only...not the bottle as you will have dark mixed up colour in there & will never know when the new fluid comes through. Once you've done that... Tighten the nipple & move on to the next furthest point which is the right rear...do the same...the front left...and so-on. It will take less time on each one because the lines get shorter.

Easiest & quickest way is to get two mates to help. One at master cylinder filling, another on the pedal pumping & you under the truck watching what comes out. That way you will directly see if any tiny bubbles push out after the first few pumps on each corner. I bet you find a few. If you do, then this could be your spoungy feel.

If you plan to change to braided lines then wait till you do that. Disconnect old lines & let the old fluid drip out onto a tray. You ca also let all the fluid out first from each corner. Takes a little while for it to empty this way. Better to force it out by pedalling.

Spongy brakes are usually inherrant to air in the lines or bad rubber brakelines.

Do you think these points might help or are they things that you have already done???
As for updates? I have not done a thing as I am waiting on some specific designs to build a new brake setup. I am still going to do it but do feel relieved that I have managed to pass te brake test with factory setup & 37inch tyres.
 

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Tuna fishing! Nice.
I don't have a build thread.
If I did one for every patrol I would have no time to find the next patrol.
That's Jackets thing anyway...

Yes I have bled it... And bled it... And bled it.
It was on standard size tyres and suspension when I bought it.
It is lifted now but that has made no difference to pedal feel.
 

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Everything is different on the 4.8 brakes compared to every other gu made, caliper size, caliper mounts, pad size, rotor size, handbrake are located on the calipers unlike all the other patrols are located on the actual tail shaft, why nissan made the handbrake on the calipers and didnt just leave it on the tail shaft , I have no idea, . note- if you fit 4.8 rotors make sure you have 16" rims or they wont fit, seriously all the trouble it will take to convert over, it would be just easier to buy a 4.8, there awesome rigs, ive owned a couple of modded 4.2td gu's and now have a 4.8 on injected gas, will never bother with a diesel again
 

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nissan gu td42ti
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Discussion Starter #108
Everything is different on the 4.8 brakes compared to every other gu made, caliper size, caliper mounts, pad size, rotor size, handbrake are located on the calipers unlike all the other patrols are located on the actual tail shaft, why nissan made the handbrake on the calipers and didnt just leave it on the tail shaft , I have no idea, . note- if you fit 4.8 rotors make sure you have 16" rims or they wont fit, seriously all the trouble it will take to convert over, it would be just easier to buy a 4.8, there awesome rigs, ive owned a couple of modded 4.2td gu's and now have a 4.8 on injected gas, will never bother with a diesel again

I think Dylan has compared his wife's truck to his own which have identical braking setups but very different responses on the pedal. Would be good to find out why as he sounds like he would be happy to get what his wife has & save money by not having to do a full mod.

Correct me if I'm wrong
 

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I think Dylan has compared his wife's truck to his own which have identical braking setups but very different responses on the pedal. Would be good to find out why as he sounds like he would be happy to get what his wife has & save money by not having to do a full mod.

Correct me if I'm wrong

That's correct. There is a huge difference in pedal feel between my two identical models manufactured 3 months apart. I want to know why.
I haven't tried the spring yet.
 

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nissan
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Everything is different on the 4.8 brakes compared to every other gu made, caliper size, caliper mounts, pad size, rotor size, handbrake are located on the calipers unlike all the other patrols are located on the actual tail shaft, why nissan made the handbrake on the calipers and didnt just leave it on the tail shaft , I have no idea, . note- if you fit 4.8 rotors make sure you have 16" rims or they wont fit, seriously all the trouble it will take to convert over, it would be just easier to buy a 4.8..............
???????

I fitted 4.8 front brakes to my Series 1 TD42T. Rotors, calipers, master cylinder, splash guards all bolted straight up...........

4.8 front pads will fit straight into the other models, but not the other way around (pad thickness).

Agree about the hand brake and 16" rims.
 

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Better but not $3.5k better

Just finished the brake upgrade on a re-engined 3L 2002 tdi st wgn to the 4.8L spec front brakes, front inner & outer splash guards, DBA slotted rotors all round, DOT braided lines all round, extended the LPV bracket to match the lift. After looking at all the Nissan OEM manuals I decided not change the master cylinder from the current bore diameter. It was all a straight bolt up. Got to discover the wheel bearings had reached the end of their serviceable life at the same time. : )

Better braking? Yes. Would someone notice if they weren't told? No. Certainly better feel and I used to be able to get the tyres to howl on the rear end if I choose. Now its a concerted effort, which would indicate a better balance attributable largely to the re-positioned LPV bracket. $25 snake racing or two bolts and a piece of flat bar if you're handy.

The proof of the pudding will be in the towing performance whilst hauling up a fully laden 22ft van especially with repeated or sustained application. I have just had those brakes replaced as well and have yet to re-calibrate the Electric brake settings for the combined rig.

So I now I have more piece of mind but for the performance orientated it wasn't the hoped for step change that three and a half thousand dollars should warrant.
 

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Just finished the brake upgrade on a re-engined 3L 2002 tdi st wgn to the 4.8L spec front brakes, front inner & outer splash guards, DBA slotted rotors all round, DOT braided lines all round, extended the LPV bracket to match the lift. After looking at all the Nissan OEM manuals I decided not change the master cylinder from the current bore diameter. It was all a straight bolt up. Got to discover the wheel bearings had reached the end of their serviceable life at the same time. : )

Better braking? Yes. Would someone notice if they weren't told? No. Certainly better feel and I used to be able to get the tyres to howl on the rear end if I choose. Now its a concerted effort, which would indicate a better balance attributable largely to the re-positioned LPV bracket. $25 snake racing or two bolts and a piece of flat bar if you're handy.

The proof of the pudding will be in the towing performance whilst hauling up a fully laden 22ft van especially with repeated or sustained application. I have just had those brakes replaced as well and have yet to re-calibrate the Electric brake settings for the combined rig.

So I now I have more piece of mind but for the performance orientated it wasn't the hoped for step change that three and a half thousand dollars should warrant.
Sorry to say but if you think someone wouldn't notice the difference without being told then u need to look into that. The brakes on my 2006 4.8 honestly make u feel like ur gonna go through the windscreen. With the 35's on they still felt like someone dropped the anchor when I braked, well an truly would outbrake my old 3L or 4.2 with their standard tyres on even with the 35's on the 4.8.

Welcome to have a drive if your ever at a forum meet at the same time as me.
 

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Sorry to say but if you think someone wouldn't notice the difference without being told then u need to look into that. The brakes on my 2006 4.8 honestly make u feel like ur gonna go through the windscreen. With the 35's on they still felt like someone dropped the anchor when I braked, well an truly would outbrake my old 3L or 4.2 with their standard tyres on even with the 35's on the 4.8.

Welcome to have a drive if your ever at a forum meet at the same time as me.
Must have put everything in backwards.
 
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