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nissan patrol
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Discussion Starter #1
Hey guys,
For a while I have thought my engine bay gets hotter than it should, and today I proved it by comparing to another tb48 (same year, trans, gas, all the bits). After the engine warms up (on gas or petrol) you can not touch the air intake pipes or abs lines because of heat. The main battery gets warm but nothing like the intake pipes. Open the bonnet for 15 mins and everything is back at a 'normal' temp.
The air flow coming into the cabin gets is always hot too and this drives me nuts (great in winter though!)
I have had the car on NDS to check the engine temp while driving and idling (never above 95 on hot day with ac blasting) and the fans all work fine. The engine and cooling systems are working as they are meant to.
I still have the original extractors and exhaust with heat shields on.

I am finally having a snorkel installed on Tuesday as I think better airflow is key to the solution, and this is step one.
My question is where to go from here?
New exhaust and extractors?
Getting a zd30 bonnet for increased air flow through engine bay?
Installing bonnet vents?
I do not want to space the rear of the bonnet as it is not a permanent solution in my eyes.
Suggestions?
TIA
 

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nissan
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My 4.8 always felt hot underbonnet and I too always had hot air from the vents if the aircon wasn't running.

I never compared it to another 4.8, and it never gave me any trouble in 100k so I never thought anymore of it.
 

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nissan
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They do get pretty hot under there. Good for warming up pies wrapped in tin foil.
Have you got any spot lights or obstructions in front of the grill? Just cos your cooling is good for the engine, it may be not flushing the engine bay.
Spacing the rear of the bonnet is a waste of time - I know cos I've done it.
 

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nissan patrol
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Discussion Starter #4
Bulbous: I have an arb bar and LED light bar on the front. this will change in the next 2 weeks as I have just got a genuine bar with winch, the light bar might move upwards to make room for the winch control box.
There is lots of room for air flow, I find the main time for heat build up is in low range and in traffic (low speed and stationary). This is my daily drive but has been setup for touring:
2 inch ome suspension
285/75/16 kumho muddies
arb winch bar no winch (soon to change to genuine with winch in)
I always clean out the radiator (3 months old - full flush and all new coolant) and ac cooler at the car wash after going out for a play in the mud
Genuine air filter (6 months old)
Genuine (original) exhaust and headers with factory heat shield
After market high flow cat

The bit I forgot to add before is what happens on really hot days with the ac running flat out; after a 5-10 mins of slow (sub 20km/h) driving the idle will increase. It will slowly start to climb and normally levels out at about 1200 rpm (normally 700 rpm with ac on, 650 rpm ac off). The thermo fans are running flat out at the same time. I have to assume this to step up the water movement through the engine? After 10-15 mins driving at 80-100km/h the idle with return to normal. Engine temp never gets above 95.
 

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nissan y61
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A hot engine bay is not a issue when you think about it. Its means the heat is been extracted and the engine is been cooled. You viscous fan should be coming on and off to control the heat along with the two electric high speed fans at the grill. You need to make sure the inner wheel arch rubbers are in place and the foam seal around the radiator is good.

Maybe you need to change your oil to 20W50 if you really in a hot area.
 

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nissan patrol
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Discussion Starter #6 (Edited)
Fans come on and off as required for coolant/engine heat.
Gaurd rubbers are all fine.
Foam seal is gone, so there is a 10mm gap all around the radiator :( might address this soon.
I would have expected the seal to affect the radiator cooling and not engine bay heat.
I'm not stressing about it now (like you say it means the other cooling systems are working) but when I head off into Central Aust it would be nice to know the car is running as cool as possible.
 
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