ditto that. im quite interested in this mod as well. just to help the old girl stay cool.G'day toughdiesels,
I know nothing about this mod, do you have more info and pics of it installed.
This mod is to remove the micro boiling point in the top of the cylinder head, we use them a lot in combos running around the 600Nm mark. It is a simple but technical job to perform and yes you need to drill and tap a hole in the cylinder head in the correct place as outlined in the instructions that come with the rail once purchased.ditto that. im quite interested in this mod as well. just to help the old girl stay cool.
how hard is it to fit. im assuming just drill holes in the correct spot and tap threads for fittings then bobs your uncle in a nutshell.
can only assume you mean tap them so they are straight and not on an angle. and yeah swarf is easily removed.I've done the mod.
If you know how to tap threads properly it's easier than you would think.
The hardest part is getting over being too chicken to drill holes in a good motor.
I must have fussed about for an hour at least before I got into it. And no, "fussed" isnt the first word I chose.
You can do it in an afternoon if you take your time.
If you don't follow the instructions then of course it could cost you a head.
Dont worry about swarf, most of it comes out the top of the hole, and you can flush the rest out the holes in the head with the garden hose if you want.
the tap is a fairly common size so you'll find use for it elsewhere.
It probably won't make your engine run cooler, if your car is getting hot thats a different issue and you should fix the cause. What it will do is stop the head cracking when it's being driven really hard.
They probably suffer from similar issues (and there have been quite a few cracked heads manily through insufficient system bleeding) and Im keen to get heat out of the alloy head especially around the prechambers.No mate not as yet, do they suffer from the same issues. The rail might fit never really checked