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What would be the problem my td42 is only overheating up quite large hills I haven’t taken it up a big hill in a while as I just put a intercooler on but just wondering if there’s any other reason to why it could be overheating
 

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What would be the problem my td42 is only overheating up quite large hills I haven’t taken it up a big hill in a while as I just put a intercooler on but just wondering if there’s any other reason to why it could be overheating
Overheating is quite a broad scope, is the factory temp gauge moving into the red or do you have a coolent temp sensor fitted?

By the sound of it I had a similar problem, I had to overhaul the complete cooling system this is what I went with. All parts are new.

Natrad radiator, Nissan hoses, UFI fan hub and fan. Derk Bronx water pump. Air dams also intact.

Towing 2.6 ton at 110 and up long hills. It can't get past 86 degrees on even a hot summer day.

Remember the poor man pays twice. Save up do it right. 👍
 

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Before you spend money all the "after market fixes" check your setup first. Have a read of Aero Things & Heat Management. Without the air going over the core you could end up spending money on a fix that may-not work.

Also your inter-cooler front mount or top mount, if it's a front mount the stuff in above link is something you need to do first! Don't spend the dollars on stuff you may not need. Also this is what made my Troll run hot on long hill climbs water bypass erosion. replaced lower housing back to normal.
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What would be the problem my td42 is only overheating up quite large hills I haven’t taken it up a big hill in a while as I just put a intercooler on but just wondering if there’s any other reason to why it could be overheating
Most fan shrouds have a 200 x 150 app cut-out on the left side to accommodate an optional oil cooler,if the blanking piece is missing,the fan will suck engine bay air through there instead of pulling outside air through the rad core.
 

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Y2KGUII ZD Wgn
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Most fan shrouds have a 200 x 150 app cut-out on the left side to accommodate an optional oil cooler,if the blanking piece is missing,the fan will suck engine bay air through there instead of pulling outside air through the rad core.
Interesting, do you mean this open section on the passenger side? If so then I've had mine since new and there never was a blanking plate in there, I've always considered that to be an overflow that somehow contributed to air flow through the engine bay.
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Interesting, do you mean this open section on the passenger side? If so then I've had mine since new and there never was a blanking plate in there, I've always considered that to be an overflow that somehow contributed to air flow through the engine bay.
View attachment 546116

I always thought that opening was there so the AC electric fan could work better. It was never blocked with the previous TB45E engine and I kept the same shroud for the TD42T and neither engines had/ have overheating issues. I even have the bottom half of the fan shroud missing now with no I’ll effect but I do have a G35 fan sitting close to the rad.
 

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the cut out area is called the "free air section"

It allows for better overall airflow at highway speeds - it works great when the cars aero is working as it should. Its really doing nothing if the cars aero is crap. (mainly the diff sticking out)

If you blank it, yes the fan will get more purchase at low speeds due to no recirc, but it will be less effective overall at high speeds.

For a true overall upgrade on a wide rad vehicle, we do the aux rad mod (to sit in-between chassis rails) and block off the free air section of the wide rad, so it acts as if its setup more like a tall skinny rad arrangement, but with more cooling ability for both low and high speed situations.

Draft flaps on this area could work on a ZD with the deeper shroud arrangement, but i wouldn't advise this on a TD or any other setup where we run less fan penetration.
 

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Y2KGUII ZD Wgn
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Obviously the radiator and shroud (and we expect people to have all their bits in place as a base point if they are searching for overheating info) are not the overheating issue if basically maintained.
On another note, all paneling and seals on my engine bay are in place and in good condition, I made a composite panel into an extension for the front 'airflow' panel, I fabricated it to reach down to diff level as mine has a 3" lift so the extension is around 4.5", the thing is it made no difference to temps on mine and I've just returned from a 2000k trip through the GDR where I gave it a workout. I'm not saying it doesn't make a difference on some 'engines', just none on mine.
 

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Obviously the radiator and shroud (and we expect people to have all their bits in place as a base point if they are searching for overheating info) are not the overheating issue if basically maintained.
On another note, all paneling and seals on my engine bay are in place and in good condition, I made a composite panel into an extension for the front 'airflow' panel, I fabricated it to reach down to diff level as mine has a 3" lift so the extension is around 4.5", the thing is it made no difference to temps on mine and I've just returned from a 2000k trip through the GDR where I gave it a workout. I'm not saying it doesn't make a difference on some 'engines', just none on mine.

It depends on some points of context, generally load or heatload entering system and our stat temp.

If your light loaded and running around stat temp both before and after increasing airflow and subsequent headload removal ability from the radiator, you wont see any change to loaded ECT at cruise load.

You will however have more up your sleeve for high load events provided your aero mods facilitate more airflow across the stack at any and all conditions

Its a hard concept for most to grasp as you need to think laterally, EG: you didnt have a "problem" to start with - but do you want/need more up your sleeve for high headload events.

We need to remember that a minimum operating temp is a good thing, not just "colder is better" this is why our thermostat is important. Our thermostat can however only do as much work in terms of stabilising our ECT as we give it cold water supply, which translates to airflow over the radiator/stack.

also, depending on the lift of the vehicle and how much diff is exposed will determine how effective an air dam extension is.

Any lift does require extension but a 2 inch lift with standard air dam wont be a great deal hotter out the bottom hose then with a 2 inch extension on the air dam, as it doesn't leave a tonne of diff sticking out in the first place.
 

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I have no problems grasping the 'situation', have been around engines, racing cars and aerodynamics for a good part of my life, so this type of thing is nothing new to me. As indicated, my 22 year old Troll gets quite a workout on our extended trips, the only normal driving it gets is between trips.

There was a considerable amount of diff showing with the 3" lift and even though she has always behaved herself heat control wise I thought I may notice a minor change seeing as my temp gauge reads out digitally in degrees, but there was nothing, she did the majority of the last trip at 85-86c, on one long steady climb to 1495m on a narrow winding road she touched 89c.
 

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My td used to get hotter than normal when I first bought it. My mate I bough it off said it would get hot towing the horse float. For me it only got hot while towing the boat around the coast at Geraldton. I advanced the timing a little and increased the boost to 14psi and it never got hot again.
It was only like this for about 8 months though till I changed turbo, intercooler etc.
When I say hot I mean it never went off the gauge on the dash.
 

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I have no problems grasping the 'situation', have been around engines, racing cars and aerodynamics for a good part of my life, so this type of thing is nothing new to me. As indicated, my 22 year old Troll gets quite a workout on our extended trips, the only normal driving it gets is between trips.

There was a considerable amount of diff showing with the 3" lift and even though she has always behaved herself heat control wise I thought I may notice a minor change seeing as my temp gauge reads out digitally in degrees, but there was nothing, she did the majority of the last trip at 85-86c, on one long steady climb to 1495m on a narrow winding road she touched 89c.

Best way to see how/if its effective is to remove it completely for a back to back test under the same load on the same day.
 
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