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TD42 conversion done with blood, sweat and beers
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Discussion Starter #1
G'day all, I am nearing the end of my TD42 rebuild and up to putting the bolt-ons back on. Anyway the power steering pump was covered in oil so I figured it must have a leak somewhere and could probably do with a birthday. Did a bit of a search and found this excellent thread by @tomlandry from a couple of years ago (https://www.patrol4x4.com/threads/td42-power-steering-pump-rebuild.341994/#post-5448970) but I thought I would write it up again because the photos are all blurry thanks to stoopid photobucket. Whatever the problem is there I hope it's not just me.

Here was my pump at the start:
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First I removed the lower bracket that bolts to the rear of the housing (let's call the side with the pulley, facing the front of the car, the front side). There is one short bolt, one long one, and one really long one that goes through the mounting bracket on the side of the engine all the way through to the bracket on the front side:
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Then I removed the nut on the pulley (I used a rattle gun, if you don't have one you may need to loosen it before you remove the belt and pump from the engine). The pulley is on a spline on the shaft, I held onto the pulley and tapped the bracket on the front of the pump (the one under the pulley) with a hammer and it came off fairly easily:

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Then remove the three bolts that hold the front bracket onto the pump.

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The reservoir is attached to the pump housing by two of the bolts you have just removed, one short one on the reverse side, and one that is inside the reservoir itself (reachable with a socket extension). Undo those and the reservoir will pop off:

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Here is the reservoir removed. Note the o-ring on the little nipple, and the space on top of the pump around where the nipple is inserted (ha ha!) that really looks to me like it should have an o-ring, but doesn't. The cause of my leak? I dunno.
514603
 

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TD42 conversion done with blood, sweat and beers
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Discussion Starter #2
The pump housing has two parts, the cover and the rest of it. The cover is at the rear side (opposite side to pulley) and is held on with 4 bolts. Be careful when removing it, there are two dowel pins inside and the pump vanes really want to fall out. As @tomlandry said it's no big deal if they do, but for chrissakes don't lose them. I don't think the pump would work as well if any were missing.

Once the cover is off, there are a 3 things to remove: the gasket, the outer ring with the "N" on it (note orientation before removal, the cut-outs need to line up with the cut-outs in the housing so the dowel pins can go in), and the impeller with the little vanes.

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The outer ring comes out really easily (I used needle nosed plier to grab it as it just sits there). The impeller sits on a spline but I just wiggled it off, it wasn't tight. Note the vanes all fallen off:

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Under the impeller is a plate thing that has two o-rings under it:

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Now all you have to do is get the shaft off and the bearing, which will need replacing. Remove the circlip that holds the bearing in place, on the front side of the housing:

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Now tap the shaft out from the rear (i.e. towards the pulley side), mine was pretty tight so I supported the housing upside down, with a couple of blocks of wood where the shiny bolt holes are in the pic above, and used another bit of timber to protect the shaft while I hit it with a hammer. In the first pic it has already gone through, I used this to show the general arrangement.

The bearing came out with the shaft on my one:

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TD42 conversion done with blood, sweat and beers
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Discussion Starter #3
There is an oil seal behind the bearing that will want replacement. The second pic shows the general arrangement of the shaft, housing, oil seal, and bearing:

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And that's pretty much it! I should have mentioned at the start, I ordered a genuine power steering pump rebuild kit from ebay for $50, it should come with all the o-rings and gaskets that are required. I spent a couple of hours with a toothbrush and a container of petrol scrubbing all the muck off the outer parts, I will paint them up and I reckon it'll look pretty schmick when it's done.

Parts ready for painting (not worrying about the alloy bits):

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I hope this will prove useful to someone as Tom's guide was for me, it looks complicated but once you start it's not too bad. You don't need to go to nearly so much trouble as I did if you are just putting the seal kit through it, most of the time I spent figuring out what to do then cleaning it up.
 

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That groove on top of the inlet is there for an oring when the pump has a remote reservoir and just a bolted on flange and hose tail fitting in other applications I believe.
Nice to see some new pics.
 

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TD42 conversion done with blood, sweat and beers
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Discussion Starter #6
Is it the 3ltr that has the res remote and does anyone have a pic
Sorry for the clog knuckles
Lol no wukkas Jjjag. If I was at home I’d check my 3L out for ya but I’m away for the holidays
 

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TD42 conversion done with blood, sweat and beers
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Discussion Starter #7
Is it the 3ltr that has the res remote and does anyone have a pic
Sorry for the clog knuckles
Hey Jjjag, yes my 3ltr ZD30 has the remote reservoir, I pulled it all off the motor yesterday in preparation for the removal of the ZD. Forgot to take a pic sorry bloke. BUT I can confirm for you the banjo bolt is the same size on both, the reservoir is the same (inlet and outlet) but the ZD one has a thing welded onto it that bolts to a bracket beside the battery. I haven’t actually lined them up yet, but by eye the high pressure hose on the top of the pump on the ZD looks like it’ll bolt straight onto the top of the TD pump, providing the hose bends allow it. I intend to try it when I get up to that stage.
 

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TD42 conversion done with blood, sweat and beers
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Discussion Starter #8 (Edited)
Continuing on from earlier posts, I rebuilt the pump with the kit I bought on eBay. Here are all the bits:
59E09092-C863-470B-A845-84A9BF807A64.jpeg

Key learnings:
1) I assumed the kit would come with the replacement bearing, but it didn’t. ***t. Also the oil seal was the wrong size. Being short on time I had to reinstall the old one, which will probably leak, ensuring I will have to do the job again.

2) In one of the two packets visible in the pic above, the circlip was way too small along with the wrong size (too small) oil seal. Is there a different type of oil pump out there? Only the gurus will know.

3) I had a spare o-ring left over. This concerned me but I double checked and absolutely could not figure out where it was supposed to go, so I put it back in the f***n packet, godammit.

4) I put all the bolts back in the exact same holes, but the two brackets don’t quite line up. I think someone, for some reason, has modified the smaller bracket by drilling a hole in it (see last pic in post #3, bracket on the lower RHS of the photo, second hole up from the bottom) EDIT: photo rotated 90deg to the left when I uploaded it. I didn’t twig at the time but the long bolt that goes through both brackets isn’t straight. Hmmm... I’ll figure that one out when I install the bastard lol!
 

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TD42 conversion done with blood, sweat and beers
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Discussion Starter #9
Hey Jjjag, yes my 3ltr ZD30 has the remote reservoir, I pulled it all off the motor yesterday in preparation for the removal of the ZD. Forgot to take a pic sorry bloke. BUT I can confirm for you the banjo bolt is the same size on both, the reservoir is the same (inlet and outlet) but the ZD one has a thing welded onto it that bolts to a bracket beside the battery. I haven’t actually lined them up yet, but by eye the high pressure hose on the top of the pump on the ZD looks like it’ll bolt straight onto the top of the TD pump, providing the hose bends allow it. I intend to try it when I get up to that stage.
EDIT: the ZD reservoir is different to the TD one, both in the bracket arrangement and the nipple on the bottom (see pic below). However I am still confident the ZD reservoir can be mated to the TD pump using parts from both.

ZD reservoir: 09BCF9E3-23C8-4DD7-8CB4-E4A58825193B.jpeg
 

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EDIT: the ZD reservoir is different to the TD one, both in the bracket arrangement and the nipple on the bottom (see pic below). However I am still confident the ZD reservoir can be mated to the TD pump using parts from both.

ZD reservoir: View attachment 515129
Yes it can, it has already been done by a few. All you need to do is mount the res somehow at a reasonable height reference to the top of the pump (inlet), replumb the return line into the side of the res and plumb the feed line out of the bottom of the ZD res into the top of the TD pump. You just need to make a flange with a hose tail connection of some sort to bolt to the top of the pump. Trick is keeping it as low profile as possible to make sure there is no or not much uphill flow depending on how high you mount the res.

I looked at this a couple of times as I was originally going to look at a kit of sorts to work with the couple of manifolds I've done. Was looking at a way to mount a res on the manifold to make it a bit neater. Haven't gotten around to making myself a new front mount set up so haven't followed through yet. I had a few flanges cut but haven't found a good low profile elbow I liked to weld on. It would also help the height relationship if you cut the straight fitting off the ZD res and welded an elbow one on. At that point in the thought process though I started looking for other reservoirs that might work without mods, just a mounting bracket.

Further to that I started looking at the electric power steering pump units and got ahold of a Holden Astra one. Been looking the last couple of days as I'm in the middle of an injector pump swap but I don't think the room is there where I thought for the electric one so I'll most likely go back to the TD/ZD arrangement.

I have the ZD bracket that bolts to the battery tray but not sure how that height looks. Would make access to the filters a bit more awkward but wouldn't be that much effort to unbolt and move at filter time. i have also seen a pic where the res was mounted in the corner of the drivers guard and the battery tray side wall where the washer bottle is. He obviously moved the washer bottle somewhere else.

The other thing I recall when this was discussed a while ago was that OldMav commented that you need to cut the legs off the original res support bracket to use the bits where the bolts go through as washers to maintain that alignment. Effectively creating a shim. Or I am sure you could find or make a suitable shim/washer.

Other Nissan power steering pumps do appear to have the same inlet spacing. I got a bolt on fitting off a V6 Pathfinder that looks right but I have not measured but the hose tail section is no where near usable so it appears easiest to just make one. Your ZD one looks close but might come up a bit high and the outlet direction will depend where you put the res.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Hey Fester, that is good feedback mate. Obviously the ZD reservoir mounting bracket will give sufficient bonnet clearance- that is where it can from, after all- but the height relative to the TD pump is what you are referring to I assume

I am interested enough to look at pursuing this mod but I am in the middle of a ZD-TD swap at the moment and the priority is to get the vehicle running again first! Also if the standard TD res mounting position has plenty of clearance at this stage I don’t see what can be usefully achieved, apart from the fun of modding it and making it work (which is a reward unto itself).

Cheers

Knuckles
 

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Hey Fester, that is good feedback mate. Obviously the ZD reservoir mounting bracket will give sufficient bonnet clearance- that is where it can from, after all- but the height relative to the TD pump is what you are referring to I assume

I am interested enough to look at pursuing this mod but I am in the middle of a ZD-TD swap at the moment and the priority is to get the vehicle running again first! Also if the standard TD res mounting position has plenty of clearance at this stage I don’t see what can be usefully achieved, apart from the fun of modding it and making it work (which is a reward unto itself).

Cheers

Knuckles
Yes mate I was referring to the fall from the outlet of the res to the top of the pump. Ideally the bottom of res should be higher than the entry into the pump. As fluid finds its own level I guess you could be a little below as long as the full level in the res is still higher so fluid will flow but it wouldn't be ideal.

The whole reason and discussion behind this is to get sufficient clearance for 3" pipework to a front entry inlet manifold. This is relevant for front mount intercooler and large top mount coolers if you are interested in getting the inlet as ideal as possible.

If you are not seriously looking at a front entry custom modified manifold like in the "show us your manifold" thread then there is no benefit for you to pursue the mod.
 

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I have used a power steering pump from a mazda rx7 fd to fix my power steering pump in my 1998 patrol y61 with rd28, the difference was. The patrol shaft was only thicker where it goes into the lid off the pump, i just drilled the back lidbut up to fit the patrol shaft the rest was the same, it was just a emergency fix. but it has worked for 10000km now so its permant fix for now.
i have a patrol y60 power steering pump its looks much stronger,wondering if it fits on y61
 

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Discussion Starter #14
@esp626 i don’t know mate, I think there is a fair chance it would fit, most of the rest of the engine is the same between y60 and y61 👍🏻
 

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@esp626 i don’t know mate, I think there is a fair chance it would fit, most of the rest of the engine is the same between y60 and y61 👍🏻
y60 pump housing is made of steel/cast, not aluminum like the y61 pump.
Strange that y61 has the same pump housing as a rx7 fd which is a very light car.
Y60 pump on y61 will be an upgrade I think especially with big wheels
 

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What the body of the pump is made of will have no bearing what so ever on whether the pump will work better or worse. It's all about the pressure.

This is what OldMav posted in another thread. This relates to the TD42's so not sure how it relates to the pumps on the RD, they look much the same but haven't much on changing them.

You can swap about the releifs from GQ to GU the pump pressure on the GQ is higher running at a lower speed eg 1300 psi at 750 rpm engine compared to the GU at a bit under 1200 psi at 750 engine rpm. Swap the GU smaller pulley over to the GQ pump and you end up with with near 1500 psi at 750 rpm. It gives back nice low engine rpm feel on big tyres and slight better feel at highway speeds.
 
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