Patrol 4x4 - Nissan Patrol Forum banner

TD42 power steering pump rebuild v.2

7K views 15 replies 4 participants last post by  festerGU 
#1 ·
G'day all, I am nearing the end of my TD42 rebuild and up to putting the bolt-ons back on. Anyway the power steering pump was covered in oil so I figured it must have a leak somewhere and could probably do with a birthday. Did a bit of a search and found this excellent thread by @tomlandry from a couple of years ago (https://www.patrol4x4.com/threads/td42-power-steering-pump-rebuild.341994/#post-5448970) but I thought I would write it up again because the photos are all blurry thanks to stoopid photobucket. Whatever the problem is there I hope it's not just me.

Here was my pump at the start:
514596
514597


First I removed the lower bracket that bolts to the rear of the housing (let's call the side with the pulley, facing the front of the car, the front side). There is one short bolt, one long one, and one really long one that goes through the mounting bracket on the side of the engine all the way through to the bracket on the front side:
514598


Then I removed the nut on the pulley (I used a rattle gun, if you don't have one you may need to loosen it before you remove the belt and pump from the engine). The pulley is on a spline on the shaft, I held onto the pulley and tapped the bracket on the front of the pump (the one under the pulley) with a hammer and it came off fairly easily:

514599


Then remove the three bolts that hold the front bracket onto the pump.

514600


The reservoir is attached to the pump housing by two of the bolts you have just removed, one short one on the reverse side, and one that is inside the reservoir itself (reachable with a socket extension). Undo those and the reservoir will pop off:

514601
514602


Here is the reservoir removed. Note the o-ring on the little nipple, and the space on top of the pump around where the nipple is inserted (ha ha!) that really looks to me like it should have an o-ring, but doesn't. The cause of my leak? I dunno.
514603
 
See less See more
8
#2 ·
The pump housing has two parts, the cover and the rest of it. The cover is at the rear side (opposite side to pulley) and is held on with 4 bolts. Be careful when removing it, there are two dowel pins inside and the pump vanes really want to fall out. As @tomlandry said it's no big deal if they do, but for chrissakes don't lose them. I don't think the pump would work as well if any were missing.

Once the cover is off, there are a 3 things to remove: the gasket, the outer ring with the "N" on it (note orientation before removal, the cut-outs need to line up with the cut-outs in the housing so the dowel pins can go in), and the impeller with the little vanes.

514604


The outer ring comes out really easily (I used needle nosed plier to grab it as it just sits there). The impeller sits on a spline but I just wiggled it off, it wasn't tight. Note the vanes all fallen off:

514605


Under the impeller is a plate thing that has two o-rings under it:

514606


Now all you have to do is get the shaft off and the bearing, which will need replacing. Remove the circlip that holds the bearing in place, on the front side of the housing:

514607


Now tap the shaft out from the rear (i.e. towards the pulley side), mine was pretty tight so I supported the housing upside down, with a couple of blocks of wood where the shiny bolt holes are in the pic above, and used another bit of timber to protect the shaft while I hit it with a hammer. In the first pic it has already gone through, I used this to show the general arrangement.

The bearing came out with the shaft on my one:

514608
514609
 
#3 ·
There is an oil seal behind the bearing that will want replacement. The second pic shows the general arrangement of the shaft, housing, oil seal, and bearing:

514610


514611


And that's pretty much it! I should have mentioned at the start, I ordered a genuine power steering pump rebuild kit from ebay for $50, it should come with all the o-rings and gaskets that are required. I spent a couple of hours with a toothbrush and a container of petrol scrubbing all the muck off the outer parts, I will paint them up and I reckon it'll look pretty schmick when it's done.

Parts ready for painting (not worrying about the alloy bits):

514612


I hope this will prove useful to someone as Tom's guide was for me, it looks complicated but once you start it's not too bad. You don't need to go to nearly so much trouble as I did if you are just putting the seal kit through it, most of the time I spent figuring out what to do then cleaning it up.
 
#4 ·
That groove on top of the inlet is there for an oring when the pump has a remote reservoir and just a bolted on flange and hose tail fitting in other applications I believe.
Nice to see some new pics.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Knuckles
#8 · (Edited)
Continuing on from earlier posts, I rebuilt the pump with the kit I bought on eBay. Here are all the bits:
Auto part Electronics Electronic component


Key learnings:
1) I assumed the kit would come with the replacement bearing, but it didn’t. ***t. Also the oil seal was the wrong size. Being short on time I had to reinstall the old one, which will probably leak, ensuring I will have to do the job again.

2) In one of the two packets visible in the pic above, the circlip was way too small along with the wrong size (too small) oil seal. Is there a different type of oil pump out there? Only the gurus will know.

3) I had a spare o-ring left over. This concerned me but I double checked and absolutely could not figure out where it was supposed to go, so I put it back in the f***n packet, godammit.

4) I put all the bolts back in the exact same holes, but the two brackets don’t quite line up. I think someone, for some reason, has modified the smaller bracket by drilling a hole in it (see last pic in post #3, bracket on the lower RHS of the photo, second hole up from the bottom) EDIT: photo rotated 90deg to the left when I uploaded it. I didn’t twig at the time but the long bolt that goes through both brackets isn’t straight. Hmmm... I’ll figure that one out when I install the bastard lol!
 
#11 ·
Hey Fester, that is good feedback mate. Obviously the ZD reservoir mounting bracket will give sufficient bonnet clearance- that is where it can from, after all- but the height relative to the TD pump is what you are referring to I assume

I am interested enough to look at pursuing this mod but I am in the middle of a ZD-TD swap at the moment and the priority is to get the vehicle running again first! Also if the standard TD res mounting position has plenty of clearance at this stage I don’t see what can be usefully achieved, apart from the fun of modding it and making it work (which is a reward unto itself).

Cheers

Knuckles
 
#12 ·
Yes mate I was referring to the fall from the outlet of the res to the top of the pump. Ideally the bottom of res should be higher than the entry into the pump. As fluid finds its own level I guess you could be a little below as long as the full level in the res is still higher so fluid will flow but it wouldn't be ideal.

The whole reason and discussion behind this is to get sufficient clearance for 3" pipework to a front entry inlet manifold. This is relevant for front mount intercooler and large top mount coolers if you are interested in getting the inlet as ideal as possible.

If you are not seriously looking at a front entry custom modified manifold like in the "show us your manifold" thread then there is no benefit for you to pursue the mod.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Knuckles
#13 · (Edited)
I have used a power steering pump from a mazda rx7 fd to fix my power steering pump in my 1998 patrol y61 with rd28, the difference was. The patrol shaft was only thicker where it goes into the lid off the pump, i just drilled the back lidbut up to fit the patrol shaft the rest was the same, it was just a emergency fix. but it has worked for 10000km now so its permant fix for now.
i have a patrol y60 power steering pump its looks much stronger,wondering if it fits on y61
 
#16 · (Edited)
What the body of the pump is made of will have no bearing what so ever on whether the pump will work better or worse. It's all about the pressure.

This is what OldMav posted in another thread. This relates to the TD42's so not sure how it relates to the pumps on the RD, they look much the same but haven't much on changing them.

You can swap about the releifs from GQ to GU the pump pressure on the GQ is higher running at a lower speed eg 1300 psi at 750 rpm engine compared to the GU at a bit under 1200 psi at 750 engine rpm. Swap the GU smaller pulley over to the GQ pump and you end up with with near 1500 psi at 750 rpm. It gives back nice low engine rpm feel on big tyres and slight better feel at highway speeds.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Jjjag
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top