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Discussion Starter · #221 ·
In terms of tuning files, you can have as many as you want loaded in the memory. However, to change them requires you to use your phone or tablet etc, and access the Compushift to change the file.

The RE5 in standard fitment in the Patrol has a "Snow" mode. Owners tell me it is not much use here. However it does show that the box will allow a second mode. The Compushift also has provision for A & B Mode, however Wholesale Automatics do not set them up to use two modes when they do the job in house.

I have fitted a mode switch and wired mine up. This then allows two separate maps available at the push of the button. Pressures are not altered, but it allows different shift points and also TCC lockup changes etc. Being a 4wd I have no need for a "sport" map, so mine is set up as suits me, which is subtle changes for when loaded up and touring, especially when in hilly country. So I have the 5th gear changes set a bit higher, and the TCC lock/unlock a bit higher in KMH and RPM for disengage. This means it will use 4th gear more, rather than changing up and down constantly.

Of course this is all aside from Tiptronic mode, which allows selection as you please.
 

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So I tried to do my first video upload to you tube today. Looks terrible but you can get the gist of it. When the alarm goes off on the Redarc it is hitting 30psi. Very slow to get up to there. This is why I read through the BW thread to get a better understanding, as I think it is way under powered at the moment and not tuned anywhere where it needs to be.

Anyway, in the video I am on 90% throttle. I will try and get another video on normal driving to show shift points.

Shayne, I haven't had much time to play with anything on this as finalising my house to sell and in the process of looking to move elsewhere, so hard time to play. Next year I will have heaps of time and will be changing quite a fair amount on it. Hope the link works.

 

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Had a play when out tonight for dinner. 30% throttle for general driving. This is probably a bit under how I drive but should give the general gist of what is going on under normal driving conditions.

 

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Discussion Starter · #224 · (Edited)
I am not sure what to take from those videos Dan. Recording of the numbers as I mentioned earlier is the best way to analyse it.

Neither of the videos showed anything that stood out in terms of the shifts. And of course, from 30% upwards, the torque converter will be driving well too. But watching it on a screen is very different to being in the seat. And small changes to the shift points can be felt from the seat in my experience.
 

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yne

Put the video up as Jjjag2099 asked if he could see it shifting. I have written down where I believe they are shifting at.
1st - 2nd - 1750 approx.
2nd - 3rd - 2500 approx.
3rd - 4th - 2250 approx.

Finally sat down with the app in the truck last night. I was to worried about changing anything to be honest. So many screens, so many settings. One screen I did notice is the engine diagnostics. Do you know where the torque figures are derived from on this page? Below is the best screen shot I managed whilst trying to drive. Not easy.

Font Screenshot Software Multimedia Electronic device


I have come to a determination that the auto is probably not a problem I currently have, but many other items (Specifically turbo choice). I am now pursuing the BW path to get a similar setup to your engine.

I spoke to Wholesales the other day as I had a problem after driving it for almost 2 years. See photo below. It blew a hose off on the transmission line whilst driving around my area. I didn't know until I was home and saw the murder scene under my truck. Lost most of my transmission oil. Very hard to refill when you don't have any in the shed and stupid lockdown makes you click and collect. I will be changing these worm drive clamps eventually to a spring loaded clamp so when the rubber gets older the spring will keep compressing to hold the hose on. Damn worm drive clamps. Very cheap and easy way of them doing it.

Hood Motor vehicle Automotive exterior Gas Automotive exhaust




Going to get Wholesale to make a convertor like yours and install it when I get my turbo works completed. Not cheap though. $1K for a convertor.
 

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Discussion Starter · #226 ·
yne

Put the video up as Jjjag2099 asked if he could see it shifting. I have written down where I believe they are shifting at.
1st - 2nd - 1750 approx.
2nd - 3rd - 2500 approx.
3rd - 4th - 2250 approx.

Finally sat down with the app in the truck last night. I was to worried about changing anything to be honest. So many screens, so many settings. One screen I did notice is the engine diagnostics. Do you know where the torque figures are derived from on this page? Below is the best screen shot I managed whilst trying to drive. Not easy.

View attachment 534861

I have come to a determination that the auto is probably not a problem I currently have, but many other items (Specifically turbo choice). I am now pursuing the BW path to get a similar setup to your engine.

I spoke to Wholesales the other day as I had a problem after driving it for almost 2 years. See photo below. It blew a hose off on the transmission line whilst driving around my area. I didn't know until I was home and saw the murder scene under my truck. Lost most of my transmission oil. Very hard to refill when you don't have any in the shed and stupid lockdown makes you click and collect. I will be changing these worm drive clamps eventually to a spring loaded clamp so when the rubber gets older the spring will keep compressing to hold the hose on. Damn worm drive clamps. Very cheap and easy way of them doing it.

View attachment 534862



Going to get Wholesale to make a convertor like yours and install it when I get my turbo works completed. Not cheap though. $1K for a convertor.
As I mentioned earlier, in the video it looked ok. But of course the shift points are relative to throttle position. So without a TPS reference it really cannot be judged. Best way to do it is as I suggested a while ago. However, it does not seem too bad from what I can see. Fine tuning makes a nice difference though, with even a 5 kph shift point change being quite noticeable, depending on where it is etc.

I have never accessed the diagnostics. I do not know what that is used for. That may be a good question for Wholesale. If you look in the engine specs page you can nominate the max engine torque in there. Yours is set for 500nm, which will be a bit low for your engine from what you tell me, but when I asked Wholesale the effect a change can have I could not find out, as they did not know. I have altered mine, and noticed no difference.

As it happens I have those hose clamps on everything on my car, but I consider checking them a maintenance item. It pays to check all clamps periodically.

If a new TC is only $1k that is cheaper than I paid for mine as I recall, so perhaps they are looking after you on price there. And perhaps your assessment is correct, and your engine needs it potential realised to be able to use the low stall converter.

As for your tuning, you should be able to "save" your file, and give it a new name. I would do that, call it "test" and then have a crack at whatever you like. If it is rubbish, your original file is still there. Also, you can access the saved files without the car running by accessing them offline. That is what I did to learn my way around it. Word of warning though, do not stuff around with any pressure settings. If you have any harsh shifts, it will be better to get Wholesale to adjust it for you, using a data log. But I am guessing it is working ok in this regard.
 

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Thanks Dan, yeah that vid did look good ,weird as readout shows 47%tps and at those revs I would assume that it would be closer to 4 to 500 nm
BTW I would love to see a vid of Shane's giving it a gutfull 😉
 

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Discussion Starter · #228 ·
Thanks Dan, yeah that vid did look good ,weird as readout shows 47%tps and at those revs I would assume that it would be closer to 4 to 500 nm
BTW I would love to see a vid of Shane's giving it a gutfull 😉
Yes, I will have to think about that. No idea how I will do it though. Can we load video direct to the forum like we can a photo?
 

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Unsure Shayne if you can load it to the forum, that's why I loaded it onto Youtube. It was easy to do and link the video.

Just something I picked up on your post above. I have some gear changes that are very hard sometimes, mainly low down in the rev range in the lower gears when going slow. Is this what you were talking to above or what that something totally different?

Maybe I should quickly jump onto that convertor before they change their mind on the price.

As I mentioned above, I am going to change my setup significantly (BW turbo, Interchiller, new inlet manifold etc..) so not sure messing around with it now is going to give me much benefit.

I might grab your file off you Shayne when I am done to see what it changes when I'm finished changing everything.
 

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Discussion Starter · #231 ·
If you have shifts that thump or are too snappy, then that is pressure related. In my experience though, we are still working with an old gearbox, so shifts are not as good as a modern car will be. But it is quite good when set up well. 1-2 is the trickiest to get right.

In your case, it was done by Wholesale, so I would expect it to be pretty good. But if you have identified something that is not as good as it could be, you can do a data log of the shift and email it to them for assessment. Shift points you can tinker with, but pressures I found to be outside of my ability to do without the gear that Wholesale have. Data logging is the best bet.
 

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I am going to change my setup significantly (BW turbo, Interchiller, new inlet manifold etc..) so
Be keen to see this interchiller at work, I'm toying with a w2a, but chiller would be the ultimate 👍
 

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Yes, just purchased the stage 2 kit yesterday from them. It is going to be different that's for sure. Going to be some big changes before Christmas. Hardest part I think is finding a place to fit everything.

No worries Shayne. As i said, I will wait until I create all the changes that are similar to what you have already completed, whack in the new convertor and then start the complete data logging and discussions with Wholesale.

Just on another note, I beleive my mate is looking to9 get the kit from them to install and RE5 in his ute, so will be able to check differences now with someone who has one close to me.
 

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Yep.....
Just waiting on quote from them to supply kit now. They are flat out down there at the moment.
Guess with everyone in lockdown a lot of people are working on there trucks....
 

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Discussion Starter · #235 ·
Yep.....
Just waiting on quote from them to supply kit now. They are flat out down there at the moment.
Guess with everyone in lockdown a lot of people are working on there trucks....
Are you installing it yourself?

If you are, then you are likely going to start with the generic tuning file they supply, which is a very long way from what you need. Keep that in mind for when you get started. Unlike Dan, who has a tuning file that is pretty good, yours MAY be based on an LS1 file, which is what mine was.

I suggested to them some time ago, that there base file could be a lot closer. However I guess that introduces the risk of the installer thinking it is pretty close and just leaving it. When it is a long way from where it needs to be, you are forced to set it up properly. See what you get anyway. If need be, I can supply a base file that will get you in the ballpark a lot sooner.
 

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That would be great thanks Shayne.
Yes plan is to fit myself.
Will update as install proceeds but at this stage wholesale said allow 12 weeks for supply of the kit.
 
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