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GQ Dual Cab. TD42Ti with fruit.
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Discussion Starter #61
Wholesale Automatics still have the converter. In Rodney's words "We are still coming up with ideas on how to lower the stall speed". Hmmm...…. I am surprised this is a problem, but they are the experts, so I will have to leave them to it.

While I wait I have done a couple of trim pieces, making a new console, and modifying the shifter to suit the Patrol, from its original Skyline spec.

Console is in three pieces. The first two are simply to allow ease of installation around the shifter and handbrake. I just figured it would be easier to do that try and make it one piece. The last section has been made so I can remove the Waeco cooler and the console section without tools, so the rear seat can still be folded up when needed. Gaps are still too small at this point. They will need to be bigger to allow for the vinyl trim when it gets covered.

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I waiting on a trim piece around the shifter to be able to complete this section. It may need to be changed a bit.



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GQ Dual Cab. TD42Ti with fruit.
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Discussion Starter #62
The shifter was quite a lot of work, apart from modifying the linkages. The Skyline shifter has two extra positions on the lever, "3" and "2". Problem is the TCU does not have software for them and if the lever goes to those spots it goes into failsafe/limp mode. No good. You can see it here. The Patrol shifter only goes to "D".

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So I have to modify it to prevent this from happening, and also to make it look factory. You can see in this pic that I have glued a piece in to stop the lever. I did a mod underneath, but the button on the shifter that allows you to move from park and into reverse, also bypassed by mod. So I did both.

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So after making it work, I started on making it look like it was meant to be there. So I used normal body work materials, blanking off the unused positions, and making it look tidy. Second pic is not the best due to light reflection, but it has come up quiet well.

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Discussion Starter #64
Got an email today advising that the torque converter is ready to be returned. I have not spoken to them to get any details, but in his email Rodney commented "we are very happy with the result". Hopefully it will be what is needed to match the engine better.
 

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Discussion Starter #65
Found out today that the work done on the converter was not what I expected, in that I thought some adjustment to the blades or machining the stator is what they would do. But Rodney explained that they did not think that would be a good enough result, and that those mods would be a compromise that affected how efficient it is.

So in looking for the best solution they have replaced the stator with a different type, not used in this application before. So the good news is that it has had some effort put into it. The down side is that this has not been done before, so I am the tester. Hopefully, it will be good and will not need to be removed again. Time will tell I suppose.
 

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Just to touch base on where I am at with mine.

Not very happy with how everything went down to be quite honest.Still have not had any contact from them since picking up my truck 7 weeks ago. Considering I spent $20K and was told when I picked it up that someone would be in contact with me due to the Covid thing, still nothing. I don't even know what oil they used in it, let alone any of the Bluetooth functions or any other function except put it in drive and press the accelerator.

One the actual install, wasn't happy with a couple of things. I have gone to great lengths to keep the front of my vehicle open from any hoses or wires. The hoses to the cooler ran directly in front of it. This would have some type of affect on it. I have since fixed all of this up. Other items to that I wasn't happy with, but won't hijack this thread with my issues.

I have just finished my electric water pump install and was able to really give it a run today. Not happy. Unless I have done something when installing the pump and moving a few hoses around, I cannot get any power into my truck when my foot is flat to the floor. Not sure if this is related to the auto or not. When I had the manual in it, I was regularly able to get to 30 PSI in 5th gear when I tromped it with the old sit back in your seat motiopn occurring. Not now. Feel like it takes forewver to get moving and won't even get to 20 PSI in any gear.

Shayne, do you think this has something to do with the same issue you had with the convertor? I will have to contact them next week, as I cannot accept where it is at the moment.
 

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Discussion Starter #67
Just to touch base on where I am at with mine.

Not very happy with how everything went down to be quite honest.Still have not had any contact from them since picking up my truck 7 weeks ago. Considering I spent $20K and was told when I picked it up that someone would be in contact with me due to the Covid thing, still nothing. I don't even know what oil they used in it, let alone any of the Bluetooth functions or any other function except put it in drive and press the accelerator.

One the actual install, wasn't happy with a couple of things. I have gone to great lengths to keep the front of my vehicle open from any hoses or wires. The hoses to the cooler ran directly in front of it. This would have some type of affect on it. I have since fixed all of this up. Other items to that I wasn't happy with, but won't hijack this thread with my issues.

I have just finished my electric water pump install and was able to really give it a run today. Not happy. Unless I have done something when installing the pump and moving a few hoses around, I cannot get any power into my truck when my foot is flat to the floor. Not sure if this is related to the auto or not. When I had the manual in it, I was regularly able to get to 30 PSI in 5th gear when I tromped it with the old sit back in your seat motiopn occurring. Not now. Feel like it takes forewver to get moving and won't even get to 20 PSI in any gear.

Shayne, do you think this has something to do with the same issue you had with the convertor? I will have to contact them next week, as I cannot accept where it is at the moment.
G'day Dan.

I am happy to help you with this. Of course the proviso is that I am not finished yet, so you will need to wait a bit before I have it sorted properly.

Having said that, from what I recall of your engine specs, I am not sure you will want the same converter as what I have. And of course, the revised converter has not been tested yet, as mine is the prototype of this specification. From what I have seen thus far, there is much to do with the electronics from how it is supplied in standard form, however mine is just a base file to be tuned after fitting, and yours will have been adjusted by Wholesale Automatics. So they will be different.

First question I would have for you, was to ask at what point does it change up into the next gear when you give it 75% throttle or more? Mine will rev way too much, so the speed settings in mine will need lowering quite a lot. It just holds a gear when it should be changing up to the next gear. This of course loads the engine up which in turn effects turbo boost. I have noticed mine doing similar to yours.
 

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Just to touch base on where I am at with mine.

Not very happy with how everything went down to be quite honest.Still have not had any contact from them since picking up my truck 7 weeks ago. Considering I spent $20K and was told when I picked it up that someone would be in contact with me due to the Covid thing, still nothing. I don't even know what oil they used in it, let alone any of the Bluetooth functions or any other function except put it in drive and press the accelerator.

One the actual install, wasn't happy with a couple of things. I have gone to great lengths to keep the front of my vehicle open from any hoses or wires. The hoses to the cooler ran directly in front of it. This would have some type of affect on it. I have since fixed all of this up. Other items to that I wasn't happy with, but won't hijack this thread with my issues.

I have just finished my electric water pump install and was able to really give it a run today. Not happy. Unless I have done something when installing the pump and moving a few hoses around, I cannot get any power into my truck when my foot is flat to the floor. Not sure if this is related to the auto or not. When I had the manual in it, I was regularly able to get to 30 PSI in 5th gear when I tromped it with the old sit back in your seat motiopn occurring. Not now. Feel like it takes forewver to get moving and won't even get to 20 PSI in any gear.

Shayne, do you think this has something to do with the same issue you had with the convertor? I will have to contact them next week, as I cannot accept where it is at the moment.
sure you havent removed the wastegate actuator hose or if you have a manual boost tee havent put it back in the wrong way?
if it was fine before the water pump install but not after you have done something in this regard.

apart from the lack of contact from them how has the driving experience been? are you happy with how it drives or has it taken some getting used to?
 

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Discussion Starter #69
I forgot something Dan. Put it in manual mode and drive it changing gears like you would with the old box. That will give you an idea if the automatic shift points are where you want them compared to manual mode.
 

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sure you havent removed the wastegate actuator hose or if you have a manual boost tee havent put it back in the wrong way?
if it was fine before the water pump install but not after you have done something in this regard.

apart from the lack of contact from them how has the driving experience been? are you happy with how it drives or has it taken some getting used to?
I am happy with the driving. Does take some getting used to without the clutch. I have a straight through exhaust, so not hearing the revs go up & down also the turbo whistle not doing the same with the gear changes is taking some getting used to.
The gear changes are relatively smooth.
Overall, happy with the auto, not happy with it being detuned. Havent had a chance to talk to my diesel guy yet. See what his thoughts are.
 

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sure you havent removed the wastegate actuator hose or if you have a manual boost tee havent put it back in the wrong way?
if it was fine before the water pump install but not after you have done something in this regard.

apart from the lack of contact from them how has the driving experience been? are you happy with how it drives or has it taken some getting used to?
G'day Dan.

I am happy to help you with this. Of course the proviso is that I am not finished yet, so you will need to wait a bit before I have it sorted properly.

Having said that, from what I recall of your engine specs, I am not sure you will want the same converter as what I have. And of course, the revised converter has not been tested yet, as mine is the prototype of this specification. From what I have seen thus far, there is much to do with the electronics from how it is supplied in standard form, however mine is just a base file to be tuned after fitting, and yours will have been adjusted by Wholesale Automatics. So they will be different.

First question I would have for you, was to ask at what point does it change up into the next gear when you give it 75% throttle or more? Mine will rev way too much, so the speed settings in mine will need lowering quite a lot. It just holds a gear when it should be changing up to the next gear. This of course loads the engine up which in turn effects turbo boost. I have noticed mine doing similar to yours.
Thanks, any help would be appreciated. Doesn't seem to be to forthcoming in my situation from Wholesale's.

What you mention about the engine specs is right. Before the auto I could hit 30 PSI in every gear by tromping the loud pedal. Struggles to get to 20PSI now. It will go through the gears and get up to speed, just has no guts in it anymore. Can't accept this.
The gear changes are relatively quick. It changes gear around the 2k mark with not much drop in revs to the next gear. Gets up to 5th gear very quickly. Doesn't run up & down gears frequently, of which I am happy with. As I stated above, overall happy with the auto, not happy with my truck being detuned. I really hope it is something simple that I have done & not the convertor. It would be a pain in the crackabindle if it was.
I will talk to my diesel guy first to make sure it isn't anything I did before going back to discuss with Wholesale.
 

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When I fitted the Re4 in mine I was running a 16g at 22psi. The first thing I noticed was the boost was down and I had to push it pretty hard to get it up to 22. Still went well and was happy with the power. I could be wrong here but boost pressure is related to engine load. The more load you put on the engine, the more boost you make. With torque converter slip, there is less load on the engine than there is with direct drive from the clutch so you have to push it harder to make full boost. I have since gone to an 18g and had it tuned. It is tuned at 26psi and I very rarely see that unless I am pushing it hard or towing the camper up a hill. Try putting a decent load behind it and see what it does.
If you are going to start playing with the shift tables in the Compushift, save the base file that is already installed so that you always have that to go back to. Then save another copy of it under a different name. You can edit these files without connecting to the Compushift. Have a play around with the second file you saved and work out how to adjust the shift tables before you start to change your base file. Use a tablet, the bigger screen is easier.
 

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Discussion Starter #73
Dan as I said above, I feel certain the different manner in which your engine is behaving is due to the auto not loading the engine as much as the manual would. This is what is causing the boost to be lower. I would be surprised if you have any engine issue.

In my case, part throttle operation was much as you describe (prior to removal). Where I noticed the issues was when I gave it 50% or more throttle. Then the gear change points were much further up the rev range, way past the torque point of the engine. Lots of revs, noise, and not a lot of go forward. This was the indicator to me that the speed tables need altering to match the torque of my engine, so all changes made by 3500-3800 rpm under full throttle is what the guess is at the moment. Mine would rev past 4500rpm heading towards 5000rpm before I lifted off to make it change under lighter throttle. And I also noted that the engine "feel" I was used to was exactly the same when the auto has the torque converter locked up. So to try and make a simple point about all of this, when the auto loads the engine up, it feels the same as the manual. That is why the shift points are important.

My torque converter is due to arrive tomorrow, so hopefully by the weekend I will be back to tuning again. After I get the basics sorted, I will be dialling in some new shift speed parameters to see their effect. I have the big advantage of being able to test my vehicle with a test driver that has done this before with the TD42 and RE5. He says that 90% if the issue is in the shift points in his estimate when he drove my car.

As B.J.M. stated above, you can make changes to the electronics yourself. BUT (a big but), the electronic adjustment that can be done with the RE5 is considerable, as it fully electronic unlike the RE4. There are tables after tables, pages and pages of stuff. So it is a can of worms that you would be opening. I started from scratch so I had no choice, and I have spent so many hours on it I could not count them all. So if you want to have a go you can, but I think there will be 90% of it you won't need to touch. Your engine will not be the same spec as mine, so we cannot assume the same parameters will work, however it will be a guide to compare them to what you have currently when I have them finalised. These files can be downloaded and emailed etc, although I do not know how to do that at this stage. But once I can do that we can compare data.
 

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While connected to the compushift, push the menu button in the top left of the screen. Save to file and name it. The saved files should be in a folder on your phone or tablet named com.hgmelectronics.setup.cs.
 

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While connected to the compushift, push the menu button in the top left of the screen. Save to file and name it. The saved files should be in a folder on your phone or tablet named com.hgmelectronics.setup.cs.
So I don't even know how to access or do anything with the system. Don't have an instruction booklet or have never been shown. I will be sending an email tonight.
 

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Discussion Starter #76
While connected to the compushift, push the menu button in the top left of the screen. Save to file and name it. The saved files should be in a folder on your phone or tablet named com.hgmelectronics.setup.cs.
Yep. So when I can find that and then figure how to email it I will be able to do it. Android is quite foreign to me compared to windows. I know I have a downloaded files and similar in there, I will just have to look for it. But I have not needed to do so as yet, so have not bothered. When I have a usable tuning file I will have a look.
 

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Discussion Starter #77
So I don't even know how to access or do anything with the system. Don't have an instruction booklet or have never been shown. I will be sending an email tonight.
There is no instruction manual. Not kidding.
 

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So an update on my issue.

Went to see my diesel mech guy today. He said that I had everything the correct way around, but suggested maybe taking out one of the boost controllers and adjusting the tee direction. He also suggested checking to see if there was anything caught in the tees and to blow through them. Low and behold, when I pulled everything apart one of the tees has a restrictor in it. Remembering back to when I brought the gauge, this part of the tee was meant to face the gauge.The way I had the configuration meant that it was not letting the air through enough, so not allowing the boost to get to where it needed to be. Pulled the tee out and changed the configuration. Put it all back together with the restrictor part facing the boost gauge & problem fixed.

So an update on my system. Grinning ear to ear now. Foot flat to the floor & pulls of the mark like crazy. Was only watching first gear change of which was at around 1500rpm. Second went out to around 3500rpm, thrid roughly the same hitting 30psi, fourth hitting 3000rpm before i backed off the accelerator at 100km/h. Got there real quick. Very much getting pulled back into my seat now.

Not sure GQshayne what they would be doing for your convertor, but mine seems to be working well through all the gears. I did a stall test on it today at the mechs with the foot on the brake and foot flat to the floor with it hitting 2000rpm then starting to drive through the brakes. Local auto guy he uses said that is what is should do.

GQshayne, if you need some info or photos on my setup let me know and will send through to you. Once I find out the computer side of it I can send you the information as well.

Now just need to get out and use the beast.
 

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Nissan Patrol GU4 2006 with Cummins ISDE4.5 270HP , 830 NM Engine Conversion
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interesting to see how the low stall TC handle the engine's torque. My Cummins' diesel has massive low down rpm torque, but i am still using the factory TC. The reason being is that I was told the big torque can easily push up the stall rpm of a low stall TC. I would like to see a real low stall TC with built in Locking function can handle big torque without issues.
 

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Just wondering if there is anyway to get cruise control onto this setup now? Can it happen?
 
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