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So this whole experiment started January 2018 when I acquired a turbo from a 79 series LandCruiser.

I was wondering if I could fit one to a TD42 for a while, and having seen “Team-Wildsau” electric control VNT and “DoggedFabrication” Project twin VNT on TD42’s I was determined to answer the question (asked many times on this forum) if a turbo from a 79 series LandCruiser v8 could be fitted to a TD42.

Though research I found that 1HDT-FTE 4.2L engines on 100 series cruises from Europe used the predecessor to this turbo (GT2359V, basically everything is the same bar the turbine housing that went form a 4 bolt T3 looking flange to a 3 Bolt round flange) the Garrett GTA2359V would be a good fit, flow and air delivery wise for the TD42.
The turbo came without a vacuum actuator as it had failed, and then as is now, from Toyota you can’t buy the vacuum actuator by itself but as a whole turbo.
2nd part I got was the manifold flange that I got from MRC Performance, from there 40nb STD 90degree weld ells from Blackwoods that I had to manually notch to fit the 40nb pipe sweeping to a common point between ports 4&5.

About this time I acquired a 2nd GTA2359V from a mate who did a turbo upgrade on his 79 this one complete with vacuum actuator attached!
There the project stalled as I moved interstate, had a kid and life……..

Slowly some parts came together, a pipe reducer from Blackwoods 2.5 inch to 2 inch witch got notched and welded between ports 4&5, I had to come up with a turbo mount flange as no one at the time sold them (now available somewhere on the internet) all was welded after test fitting and making sure clearance was available to pass engineering.

VNT clocking was, is, and will always be a pain in the ASS! I had to rotate the VNT through 108 degrees to make oil drain vertical down. Of course this is not possible as the ring guide post is in that location so I was forced to only rotate it 81 degrees having the oil drain at not optimum 20 ish degree from vertical however after research on a 1VD (where they came factory) it drains at a 45 degree angle so I’m hopeful I won’t have any issues. Also It comes out at a 20 ish degree angle direct into a 30 degree an fitting which aims direct down causing about 2cm of travel at the not optimum angle.

The way the 1st turbo locked the turbine housing to the core to prevent rotation to keep the VNT ring in place was with a dowel pin in the face of the turbine housing drilling this in the right spot was going to be a nightmare. However the 2nd turbo must have been a redesign from a later vehicle and there is a sealing flame ring and the pin was located to the outside circumference of the core and a simple slot cut in the turbine housing the exact width of a 4 inch angle grinder cutting disc, some simple measurements and a new slot was cut in the correct location.
The turbo then needed a modified actuator bracket which was fabricated as closely as I was able to get to the factory angles and distances. I sent the turbo off to have the new modified VNT actuator calibrated and turns out my measurements were spot on because it passed without having to adjust the actuator at all.
Then the rear diff died! Make sure to lock tight your ring gear bolts! The diff spat all but 2 ring gear bolts out of the ARB rear air locker, (side note anyone who has the original 3 piece style rear air locker with broken gears wanting to sell the casings for an H233 rear?)

Now the car was off the road (and the virus that shall not be named arrived) I was driving a daily Camry I could actually work on this project properly.
The old exhaust came off and got binned replaced with a 3 dump pipe back system (I got the system with the hotdog but now kind of wish I went straight pipe) from Playtime Autoparts. Dump pipe fabrication was next and my 1st attempt was with a 2.5 inch downpipe but with the 3 inch system I decided that I needed to make a 3 inch dump pipe. This required me to learn how to make a pie cut dump pipe witch you can see some progress pics, however the finished product photos were on my phone that decided to go for a swim and now are lost to the digital gods.
Pulled the sump off to weld in a turbo oil drain return using a weld in AN fittng (yes NA blocks have oil jets spaying up into the cylinder), oil feed was plumbed in using -3AN fittings and hse from the usual location, coolant feed was taken from the block drain and return plumbed to the usual location, a fitting plate with an weld in fittings was made to bolt to the side of the turbo as it does not use banjo fittings for coolant.

Intake pipework was fabricated to go from the ZD30 Airbox to the turbo intake from 2.5inch aluminium pipe as well as a compressor outlet flange to 2 inch pipe was fabricated.
VNT control is taken care of by a GFB VNT II

There is a spare vac port next to the aux battery tray that was just capped off so vac feed was taken from that point. Boost reference was taken from the intake manifold elbow, fresh air from a port tapped into the intake pipe after the air filter and before the turbo, then the boost control vac hose was sent to the vacuum actuator. Be careful to hide this as per EPA guidelines an adjustable boost control fitted to a vehicle that did not come out with one from factory is a no-no for roadworthy.

After the 1st test drive it was evident that the vac was being prioritised by the turbo so the brakes were getting hard to operate during slow maneuvers. To alleviate this I plumbed in a bosh electric vac pump (found v6 SIDI commodores) between the one way valve and the vac canister allowing the electric vac pump to vac down the brake system independent of the engine vac pump which will provide vac to the booster during highway operation. (Added benefit I have assisted brakes without engine running now so even safer when I stall it out on a hill.)
An HPD 500x400x72mm top mount intercooler was fitted, only mod was to make an S shaped hose to connect compressor outlet to intercooler intake.
With no fuel and 10psi it makes a factory 58rwkw which was needed to pass engineering as well as not to blow any smoke.

With the engineering passed and some maintenance items for roadworthy, I was able to have my vehicle inspected by VicRoads, (the guy on duty this time went around the vehicle, taking photos of the mods, checked seatbelts and a rather through inspection rather than a VIN check and handshake).
Now the engineering cert was loaded against the vehicle, it is now a club permitted vehicle that I get to take out and enjoy 4x4 and touring!
Having only a non comp 10mm pump, I am going to add some fuel and boost to actually make power. And until I can afford a pump upgrade, new clutch and internal overhaul to turbo specs I will then get it a professional tune and have real power and torque numbers then. (At this rate maybe in 10 years)

Many things left to finish such as cleaning up the 12v aux wiring as it is from the 90’s, finishing decking out the rear with a fridge and cargo divider barrier for on top of the drawers keeping left and right separate, and some paint touch-up on the drip channels.
 

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