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Discussion Starter #1
I am probably worrying about nothing here but I'm going to ask anyway.

I have a TD42t in a 2001 GU with 230k on it. The engine runs (as far as I'm concerned) perfectly, I tow a camper with it regularly up the Kuranda range and apart from the usual lack of power a td42 has from factory it's perfect, no weird noises or vibrations.
Occasionally though, when I first turn it on it makes a thumping noise, it sounds like a big end. It usually lasts for maybe 3 or 4 seconds (I've counted the thumps and it's usually 7 or 8) it always stops when the oil light goes out and I've never heard the noise outside of starting it up. As I said, it doesn't always do it, if I had to guess I would say maybe once in every 10 or 15 starts.

My td42 has the 2 different filters and I have been using ryco filters. I am going to try genuine at the next service and see if that changes anything.

I just want to make sure that the thumping isn't an indicator of something that's about to let go. I've got a ufi 18g and dc6 going on the old girl soon and don't won't to destroy it.
 

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That must be bearing rattle due to lack of oil pressure.

What oil are you running?
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Running delo 400 at the moment. There is a definite lack of oil pressure on first start up, you can hear every thing rattle and bang for about four seconds and then the oil comes in and it all gets pretty quiet.
I've tried a couple of different ryco filters but none have really been very different.
 

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Mate I have 2000 4.2, no big rattle. I use Nissan filters only and ImageUploadedByTapatalk1431848338.563625.jpg oil. Just a small amount of tappit rattle for a few seconds. The rattle you describe is not good.
 

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Discussion Starter #6 (Edited)
Ok, the two oil filters I am currently using are the ryco z115 and the z416 (my td42 has the different filters).
I should also add that my big end diagnosis could be way off the mark, I am basing that on descriptions I have read, I have never personally heard a big end knock or even know someone who has.
Also the car has busted engine mounts and a clutch throw out bearing that is pretty sad, it occasionally makes a rythmic knocking sound with the clutch engaged.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Question for those in the know, if hypothetically what I was hearing on startup was a big end, is it possible for a big end to be within spec and still make a noise if there is inadequate oil pressure?
 

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nissan
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No not really. If the bearing was within spec it shouldn't really knock starting the next morning. Even with little oil pressure on start up there should be enough of an oil film to lubricate until oil pressure is achieved. Not good long term however. The fact that it only happens occasionally doesn't really make me think big ends. Did you say busted engine mounts? That could very easily be your issue. If you start her up and she runs a little rough the mounts could definitely knock. Do you get a knock if you quickly rev the engine or gear down quickly?
 

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Discussion Starter #9
I will try it tomorrow, do you mean rev the engine quickly out of gear? Cause being a stock td42t I don't think I can rev it quickly in gear :)
 

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Ok, the two oil filters I am currently using are the ryco z115 and the z416 (my td42 has the different filters).
I should also add that my big end diagnosis could be way off the mark, I am basing that on descriptions I have read, I have never personally heard a big end knock or even know someone who has.
Also the car has busted engine mounts and a clutch throw out bearing that is pretty, it occasionally makes a rythmic knocking sound with the clutch engaged.
I'd be getting a decent patrol mechanic to have a look.

I use a z503 and z416.
Search Application : Air Filters, Oil Filters and Fuel Filters :: Ryco Filters :: Automotive Filters Australia

I have had my '00 td42t for 12 years now and have tried a lot of different filters. The ryco have the best anti drain valve IME. The oil light goes out quickest using them on start up.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
If anyone could suggest a patrol mechanic in FNQ (Cairns) I would definitely give that a go. Generally I try to fix anything that's wrong with the car myself, I have this warped idea that a man should essentially be able to take his car apart and put it back together by himself.
I tried the z503 and it won't fit on my patrol. Where the z503 would go I can fit a z9 or a z115. The other filter is a z416 as recommended by ryco.
 

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If anyone could suggest a patrol mechanic in FNQ (Cairns) I would definitely give that a go. Generally I try to fix anything that's wrong with the car myself, I have this warped idea that a man should essentially be able to take his car apart and put it back together by himself.
I tried the z503 and it won't fit on my patrol. Where the z503 would go I can fit a z9 or a z115. The other filter is a z416 as recommended by ryco.
Yeah I agree re being able to fix some things however the average punter cant hope to have the diagnostic skills of someone who has extensive experience on diesel engines. Mine doesn't make that clunk and is slightly older with the 237k on it.
A z9 is actually longer than a 503 so I can't work that one out? Not saying it's , just can't see why. It is in a ***** of a spot but fits on my motor which should be the same.

Can't help with a mechanic sorry, I'm in Vic.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
When I tried the z503 thread was wrong, not the length. As you say, I could fit the length of a z9 in easily enough.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Hmmm, okay maybe I didn't hold my mouth right. I'm coming up for another filter change I will try a z503 again and figure out where I went wrong.
 

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THE EFFECT OF ENGINE DESIGN ON



You should be using a jaso spec oil in that engine. The one youy pictured doesn't appear to be from what I can see. The caltex document I linked explains why. Delo 400 FTW

Hi Warthog, mate of mine is right up in Hastings Deering who service and sell all the mining equipment. He has access to oil chemists who check samples from all the gear they maintain. He tried a lot of different oils in his 4.2 and after a lot of tests and comparisons with the other top oils, Cat oil came out as still having the best properties. Like he said it has to be good stuff because at the end of the day, if it's not it costs them more money on their service contracts which run into the millions per mine site. Their are six of us using it for the last 3 years in CQ with no ill effects so far. 4 x 4.2TD, 1 x 2.8TD and a 100 series TD. Cheers
 

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Hi Warthog, mate of mine is right up in Hastings Deering who service and sell all the mining equipment. He has access to oil chemists who check samples from all the gear they maintain. He tried a lot of different oils in his 4.2 and after a lot of tests and comparisons with the other top oils, Cat oil came out as still having the best properties. Like he said it has to be good stuff because at the end of the day, if it's not it costs them more money on their service contracts which run into the millions per mine site. Their are six of us using it for the last 3 years in CQ with no ill effects so far. 4 x 4.2TD, 1 x 2.8TD and a 100 series TD. Cheers
It probably is very good for Cat engines which are an american designed engine which is the type of engine this oil is specced for. From the caltex doc;

Japanese diesel engines are designed so that piston crown temperatures are lower. This
leads to a reduction in nitrogen oxide emissions, as nitrogen oxide
emissions are a particular concern in Japan. The transfer of this
heat from the piston into the engine oil places even greater thermal
stress on the lubricant.

So an oil used in Japanese diesel engines must have substantially
greater oxidation resistance than North American or European style
oils.
The level of oxidation resistance in Japanese diesel engine
manufacturer's "Genuine" diesel engine oils (3) is usually very high
to address the thermal stress placed upon the oil, and additives
used in Japanese "Genuine" oils will usually be of a specific
chemical type to enhance oxidation resistance.

Dispersants, which are used in very high levels in North American style engine oils, are not thermally
stable. So the level of dispersant which can be included in a Japanese style diesel engine oil Is limited,
and higher dispersancy, low-ash North American style diesel engine oils provide inferior performance in
Japanese diesel engines.


Diesel engine oils suitable for use in Japanese diesel engines are formulated with a level of dispersancy
carefully balanced to prevent the build up of insulating sooty deposits under the piston crown, which would
reduce the transfer of heat to the piston, and at the same time not contribute to oil oxidation.
So an engine oil for use in Japanese heavy-duty four-cycle diesel engines will be highly detergent,
typically have a sulfated ash level around 2.0 %, be highly oxidation resistance, and have a carefully
balanced level of dispersancy
 
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