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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Build up of my gu Ute from when I first got it, started it a year or 2 ago, 2018 so will update till now 2020. Chassis swap, tray build, lift, turbo, 12mm pump, lots of grinding, cutting, engine rebuild. Cheers
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Discussion Starter #2
Wrote off previous vehicle so was in need of some wheels, wanted to get back into 4wds and wanted a GU Ute, found this down in Sydney, drove the 6 hours, picked it up without even really looking at it, leaf sprung rear, was stock as anything, some new Mickey Thompson atz, just a 2 inch lift. 350xxxks had a boost T running 12psi, handed over the cash and drove the 6 hours back.
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Discussion Starter #3
Next day woke up, had an actual look over the car, found that there was a bit of rust in the chassis, previous owner had painted over the lot, I Jammed the hose down it and flushed it out, massive chucks of rust,, had taped over holes in chassis and sika flexed/ painted over the rust holes... timing cover was leaking coolant, also was covered with sika flex to hide it, had spent a more then I should have, so only option was to fix what I had, thought I better upgrade while I was at it, so began looking for a coil chassis (y)
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Discussion Starter #4
After a few weeks of looking around found a chassis 2 hours away, went to inspect, was a 1999 2.8 wagon, chassis had no rust, checked the vin, was all clear, 👍
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Discussion Starter #5
Old man found a new car for himself, was pretty keen on it, had blown engine, so need to be trailered, was 10 hours away down the ACT, jumped in the patrol hooked up the trailer and drove, was the middle of summer +40c , first introduction to the “Kettle” only had factory gauge, but would be almost pegged up long hills, would spit coolant out of the leaking timing cover, lots of pulling over to top up coolant, and to let it cool down, also found the radiator outlet to over flow didn’t have a hole in it, so heated up an Allen key and poked a hole, ( no more spraying out the timing cover haha) made it back after 2 days driving,
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Discussion Starter #6
Couple days later started it up drove 200m down the road and it shut of by it’s self, wouldn’t start up, pumped the hand primer while cranking for a few mins, finally stated back up, pulled the gauze filter was full of crap, changed fuel filter, ran a lot better, took the transfer pump off the second fuel tank and used it as a lift pump, actually had a bit of power! Turns out the injector pump was just tired, something else to save up for.
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Had enough of topping the coolant up every time I drove it, so had a go at fixing the timing cover leak, getting the crank pulley off was a challenge on its own, had to remove bullbar and ac condenser to get a good swing at it. found that the cover was all eaten out around the water pump and thermostat housing was eaten as well, need the car back on the road so threw it all back together.. change it another day, Finally no more leaks !!
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Discussion Starter #7
The chassis was ready! Old mate had pulled the body off for me, just had to pick it up,
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Got it back and gave it a good pressure clean, stripped every thing that was bolted or clipped too it and sat it up on some old drums. Bit of work ahead!!
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Discussion Starter #8
Got the grinder and wire brush out spent hours stripping it all back, gave the chassis a treatment of rust converter, let it sit for a day, then gave it a few coats of 2pac black, came up alright...
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Also managed to find a gu coil rear diff, out of a td42 wagon, gave it a coat of paint, some new pads and rotors and new pinion seal, found some second hand springs and shocks, ( shocks ended up being to short so bought some new tough dog foam cells, non adjustable), also got a coil tower brace ( towers were slightly bent but the brace put them back in line) also got an adjustable pan hard... almost ready to swap the chassis over 👍
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Discussion Starter #9
Was time to hook in and get the chassis swapped over, took it for one last run, flexed the leaf springs to compare to coils,
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Lifted the tray off and backed it up into the shed, used an engine crane up the front and 2 bottle jacks at the back of the body,sat it up on some really old tressels and braced them up with some cut logs and any other bits of scrap laying around, was a bit sketchy, almost slide off the bottle jacks half way up...tried to roll the chassis’s out, was to high so pulled the front coils out, threw the old drums under the body in case it fell. was finally apart 👍👍
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Discussion Starter #10
Began pulling everything apart sorting what I was going to keep, and throw way, turned into a mess pretty quickly.. couldn’t move the old chassis by myself so cut it all up to take to scrap.

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Discussion Starter #11
Rolled the new chassis up into the shed, had to cut the engine mounts off old chassis and weld to the new one, bolted the gear box and crossmember in, Bolted the engine up and welded the mounts on, also cut off the tray mounts on old chassis, fitted the front diff steering box and fuel / brake lines, rolled it under the body, after a bit of struggling got the body lowered down and bolted up, definitely not easy doing it in a tiny shed and on gravel, but got there in the end 👍👍
Also got some 3 inch springs for the front and tough dog foam cels for the front.
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Discussion Starter #12
Got everything all hooked up, fuel lights wiring, handbrake, brakes, tail shafts, cut the rear body mounts of the chassis, lined up the tray and welded the mounts I cut off the old chassis on, took it for a drive was a lot better then the old leaf springs, but really stiff, still was pretty happy with the flex, couldn’t get it to pick up a wheel, 🤙
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gave the swivel hubs a rebuild, new seals and bearings, got some drop boxes to correct castor, and fix the twitchy steering, pulled the radius arms out, and found the diff mount flogged out. Bit of a clean up, bit of weld, bit of time filing the holes out, all fixed. Got rid of the crap Polly bushes, and pressed some genuine rubber ones into the radius arms. Put in a superior solid drag link and solid comp sec tie rod. Drove so much nicer, felt like the front end was actually connected and not loose.
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Discussion Starter #13
Figured out why the ride was so stiff! The “rough dog” shocks. With a heap of weight in the rear it was ok but with no weight was rough as anything, had already bought and put in new coils for the rear 3” no load springs, wanted that “coil” feeling so ordered the softest shocks I could find, procomp shocks from America, just have to wait,
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Walked out one arvo, had enough of the farmer joe tray, so started unbolting it, cut it flush with the chassis and bolted it back together, much better but very short! Too much haha at least I know not to build the new tray like that.
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also got some drop out cones and coil retainers as the new shocks we’re going to be longer and the coils already fall out.
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Awesome man that’s so good you had a crack and did pretty much all of it yourself . Turned out really nice by the looks of it
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Awesome man that’s so good you had a crack and did pretty much all of it yourself . Turned out really nice by the looks of it
Yeah came up alright, never owned a patrol before so it’s all new to me 👍 yeah have done it all myself.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Next on the list The seats! Couldn’t stand driving this thing for long periods of time, also wanted a centre console, picked up the console from the wreckers, found a really cheap set of xr6 seats and bought the hurrican rails to bolt it all up, Unbelievable! So much better to drive worth every cent to upgrade
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Also got a 4” stainless snorkel cut a hole in the guard and fitted it up, ended up finding a bit of rust in the passenger A pillar in the door jam, wire wheeled it all back, welded up the old snorkel bolt holes, soaked in rust converter, sanded it up and shot some 2pack on and blended it to the roof👍 Didn’t bother with bog as the snorkel hides it anyway, also took the pass guard off and gave it a respray as I had to weld the old snorkel bolt holes up as well,
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Discussion Starter #18
The Lsd was pretty much an open diff, so ordered up a .55mm shim pulled the rear diff out and put it in, the backlash was at .25 so I set it back to spec .18, much better no need to put it in 4wd to go up a basic hill,
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Had some avm hubs on it when I bought it, had stripped the teeth out and cracked the locking dial, so found some second hand genuines, for some reason the rings wouldn’t fit so I super glued an old grinder disc into them, put them on the grinder and sanded it down till they were the right fit👍 Needed stuff all taking off. Bit dodgey spinning it up, but worked.
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Pulled the electronic rust protection out that obviously didn’t work haha, cut the cover out and put breathers for the diffs, transfer and gearbox, hides it pretty well I think !
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Discussion Starter #19
The Kettle... I put in some gauges so i can actually see what’s going on, red arc boost and egt, an auto meter I had from another project, was in Fahrenheit and an oil pressure gauge in a stubby holder, suits it well😂
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knowing the timing cover and thermostat housing was all eaten out, and was part of the problem, still trying to find them for factory turbo, I bought a G35 fan, pulled apart the hub, cleaned it out and put in 2.5 tubes of Toyota silicon oil, just had to drill the top radiator mounts in abit so the fan didn’t hit. instead of sitting at 100c and not coming down it it would actually recover after going up any sort of a hill on the highway much better,
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Cut up a old hilux exhaust manifold heat shield I had to cover the slave cylinder, bent up a bit of alloy checker plate to stop the heat, put in a new slave and master, braided line, much better pedal feel and the fluid doesn’t turn black anymore!
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Discussion Starter #20
Sold the 33” Atz and bought a new set of maxxis razr 315 s on -22 steel rims, quickly fabed up some brackets to hold some second hand 35s I got as spares, mostly wanted to hide the headboard, didn’t really like it so was time to build this tray !
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bent the lower control arm, already put it in the press before to straighten them out wasn’t keen on fatiguing the metal anymore so got some superior comp spec solid arms + 10mm to suit the lift.
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wanted the most travel out of the shocks in the front, so bought a second set of shock mounts, cut them up and welded together to get them 2” higher, had to cut a heap more out of the inner guard then I would have liked to fit them in there.
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