[Marn]

those leafy chassis are longer you can cut the bit off the back and weld it on to the coily chassis if you want a large tray. Gains about 400mm

 

[PatrolDoctor]

those leafy chassis are longer you can cut the bit off the back and weld it on to the coily chassis if you want a large tray. Gains about 400mm

Yeah didn’t like the long chassis, wanted it shorter, any part of that frame was way passed being saved, the amount of rust in it.

 

[PatrolDoctor]

Bought a new head for it, aftermarket turbo spec head, a lot lighter then the factory head, will see how it holds up.

got a full rebuild kit with the thickest Genuine gasket 1.25 mm

I ended up putting a K&n filter in it after it was tuned to get more flow, but even that began to get sucked in on itself, so sold the airbox.

got some cardboard and started making the biggest airbox I could fit 4” in and out and a 9in pod, shouldn’t have anymore flow problems 👍 Will wait till the engines back in to check clearances.

got a tappet cover off a silver top, old one broke the weld where the heater hose clamps on, had some tape over it, gave the new one a quick paint.

 

[OldMav]

Just a tiny bit of advice for your air box from experience. Most of the air through a pod is pretty much right at the pod entrance. If you can for spool accelerations it is a huge advantage to have 30mm clearance all around the pod in the pod entrance area. You are doing a new design and have the skills and you are templating your product in cardboard so you can play around a bit to get a good 30mm at the entrance and if possible if you are seeking that 200rwkw point you will need an ideal 100mmish clearance from the snorkel entry to the end of the element. you can bend the pod around further to achieve a better result.

By no means am i suggesting what you have wont work better than the pov air box you have already but if you are seeking something closer to the ideal for a pod and spool acceleration, that 30mm clearance is important. Its not about total flow for a street rig its about the ability of the pod to be less resistant in the spool criteria, pods in a box need all the help they can get compared to a half decent panel box concept when it is about spool resistance which is drivability and fun early power/torque. .

 

[PatrolDoctor]

Just a tiny bit of advice for your air box from experience. Most of the air through a pod is pretty much right at the pod entrance. If you can for spool accelerations it is a huge advantage to have 30mm clearance all around the pod in the pod entrance area. You are doing a new design and have the skills and you are templating your product in cardboard so you can play around a bit to get a good 30mm at the entrance and if possible if you are seeking that 200rwkw point you will need an ideal 100mmish clearance from the snorkel entry to the end of the element. you can bend the pod around further to achieve a better result.

By no means am i suggesting what you have wont work better than the pov air box you have already but if you are seeking something closer to the ideal for a pod and spool acceleration, that 30mm clearance is important. Its not about total flow for a street rig its about the ability of the pod to be less resistant in the spool criteria, pods in a box need all the help they can get compared to a half decent panel box concept when it is about spool resistance which is drivability and fun early power/torque. .

Thanks for the tip👍 Will try get the clearance, Not chasing the 200kw just want it somewhat reliable around 250hp, also getting rid of the aircon, will give a heap more room for a bigger air box, never used it anyway rather the windows down ha, will turn the air con pump into endless air, pump tyres up a bit quicker.

 

[OldMav]

You have a UTE mate, Are you still trying to retain your second battery next to the airbox.??? Batteries last for near forever under the tray out of the heat. You have heaps of room, you dont need to follow what other nongs do trying to stick a air box in that corner. Let your inventive power run wild, and keep the Aircon.

 

[werley]

Great build from humble beginnings haha

 

[LIB]

Awsome build mate.
Did you manage to fit the sub tank from the leaf chassis onto the coil chassis?
I found the rear mount is different.

 

[Knuckles]

Awesome effort. Keep it coming!

 

[NissTorq]

Wow awesome work and nice write up, you went to town on it and I'm still on page two, where the motor is getting sorted. How did you bond the alloy floor to the steel, glue and rivets ?

 

[PatrolDoctor]

Awsome build mate.
Did you manage to fit the sub tank from the leaf chassis onto the coil chassis?
I found the rear mount is different.

I haven’t sorted the sub tank yet, have the wagon sub tank when I bought the new chassis could bolt straight in, will eventually fab up some brackets to use the bigger Ute one

 

[PatrolDoctor]

Wow awesome work and nice write up, you went to town on it and I'm still on page two, where the motor is getting sorted. How did you bond the alloy floor to the steel, glue and rivets ?

Thanks, engine is getting the machine work done at Currie brothers in Taree, I’m going to be building it myself,

yeah just smeared the tops of the rails with some black silicone, to stop moisture build up and rust forming, just riveted it in.

 

[PatrolDoctor]

Block is back!! Had to take 3 thou off the deck to get it level, ended up taking 4 thou off the tops of the new pistons then getting the tops ceramic coated, the crank measured up sweet and crack test showed nothing👍 New liners in got the block torque plate honed with the arp head studs to 170nm, new welsh plugs, new cam bearings. Time to start building.

 

[PatrolDoctor]

Got the acl race bearings in, crank in, pistons and rods all together, bolted it all up, 👌 The liners were sitting 4 thou above the deck at TDC the piston just kissed a straight edge, no piston protrusion, perfect for the 30psi boost it will live on. Got the head studs in, put the head on, taped it all up and gave it a coat of silver paint.

 

[PatrolDoctor]

Got the rest of the engine all put back together, new spill rail, injectors were sent back to DPC to be rebuilt again, set pump timing back to where it was, bought a second egt gauge and tapped a fitting into the turbo housing won’t be cooking it again haha, lifted the engine back in, also got a set of 4” springs for it and a second drivers side snorkel. Left the boost comp hose off to run the engine in. Good to finally have it back on the road again.🍺

 

[PatrolDoctor]

Gave it a good run in, varying load and revs for 1000ks dumped the oil and put in some better oil, that it would live on from now on. Driving home from work one arvo pulled over and hooked up the boost comp hose to the pump.

!!! This thing pulls!! Goes harder then it ever did before, also screwed the boost T all the way down and locked it off, ended up bang on 30psi full boost. The second egt gauge in the manifold is definitely a must, reads so much quicker can see why it must of got a bit to hot last time.

Gave it a few good day trips around the place,

 

[PatrolDoctor]

Had about 5000ks all up on the rebuilt engine, was pulling onto the highway one arvo, got up to speed went to over take, then instantly got a loud thudding noise, pushed the clutch in chucked it in neutral and coasted off the road, definitely coming from the engine, sounded like it was coming from the block so called for a tow....

 

[PatrolDoctor]

Pulled tappet cover, checked rockers nothing seemed out of the ordinary, flywheel didn’t sound loose, had it idling and cracked the injectors one by one, when I cracked the very last injector the thudding sound pretty much disappeared. mmmm

was either going to be the injector or something in the block, ripped the sump off again and started looking around, all the bores looked perfect, crank looked fine, rods looked fine..
Took me a couple goes to spot it, but found the problem ended up cracking the very last main cap, all bearing clearances where in spec when I built it, thinking the crank has snapped and been the result of the cracked cap. Have been waiting for it to happen ever since I put the 12mm pump on haha

 

[Knuckles]

Oh man that sucks. I feel for ya.

 

[OldMav]

That's just crap mate, i feel for you. You suggested you had the block crack tested but i will assume they didn't magnaflux or crack test your caps. i always have them checked especially the end caps.