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Hmmm, are you doing the Darling @jackbyo
Great trip, did it myself a little while back, did a trip report, I'll link it here might help you out, you never know.
If you venture up a little higher you must stop at Tilpa Pub for a beer, you haven't lived until you've been to Tilpa pub (BTW we were there in a dust storm lol).

 

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09 ZD30 CRD Wagon
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Discussion Starter #182
Nothing like a splurge... some questions please
1. Doesn't the Drifta fit on the Rhino?
2. You mentioned fitting your reverse camera earlier but I couldn't picture (no pun intended) it. Is that it above the 'H'?
3. Any pics of Nizzbits Garry's goodies he sent you for the suspension?
More importantly, enjoy the Darling. I should've been off with my club next week doing Googs Track but that won't happen now this year :(
yes the drifta would fit directly on the rhino. However i figured I could spend $300 on roof bars instead and sell the rhino for a fair bit more than that.

yep that’s the camera there. A bit of the shot gets obscured by the spare tire. If I were doing it again, I’d consider getting it up on the roof rack in the middle.

sorry no photos of garrys parts. great service from him as always.

Hmmm, are you doing the Darling @jackbyo
Great trip, did it myself a little while back, did a trip report, I'll link it here might help you out, you never know.
If you venture up a little higher you must stop at Tilpa Pub for a beer, you haven't lived until you've been to Tilpa pub (BTW we were there in a dust storm lol).

Will definitely have a read and yes tilpa pub is on the cards!
 

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09 ZD30 CRD Wagon
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Discussion Starter #183
523275

Here’s something I’m pretty proud of. Fitted up some garden hose bits and some rated drinking water hose to this jerry. It's occy strapped behind the fridge cage, and the middle row seat actually squashes it in place slightly so it's going no where.

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The other end has this little tap on it that works great. S-hooked up high when driving so it cant drip at all

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And when parked up, this little clip that came with my LED lights holds it in place at gravity feed height and lets you operate the tap with one hand. Really handy. Actually the hose could stay there and when the door closes it doesnt kink or foul on anything, but I prefer it clipped up high just in case

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And here's the best part.... The tap just clips off, and this charcoal caravan water filter clips straight in place. This extra length of hose can then be attached to any normal threaded tap and the jerry can be refilled without moving it
 

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09 ZD30 CRD Wagon
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Discussion Starter #184
523279


Also nothing terribly exciting here, but finally got my head around 12v enough to install a fuse panel and a 12v ciggie/dual usb plug. On separate fuses just in case, and earthed back to the negative bus on the fuse panel. I basically made my own twin-core loom (tri-core? two positives and a common negative). That expanding braided wrap and heat shrink makes everything very tidy and tough

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One day I'll add some hardwired lighting, but no time before leaving tomorrow!
 

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All work done the hard way
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If access to the RJ45 isn't a requirement, there's probably enough space for that little unit INSIDE the centre console in the exact same spot you have it now. You could probably drill a hole in the switch blank and run the wire for the hand piece through it.
I like that idea. (y)
 

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Discussion Starter #187
523530


having a couple days in a BnB after several nights camping along the Darling river run.

Everything I’ve done recently has worked out so well. Love the tent!!! It’s tremendous

12v seems fine. Even though I have no battery monitor or solar, The fridge has stayed ice cold.

thank god I did the shocks. The corrugations have been rough as in some spots. Can’t imagine with the old ones

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523532
 

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Discussion Starter #190
Last week I did a 2000km trip from Sydney to the north coast via a few spots. Great camping, scenery and weather.

The patrol went very well, but I became sick to ****ing death of it's highway behaviour. The tillix+needle post remap has been great for down low torque, but highways are just a bit of a screaming nightmare at 21psi the whole time. My fuel usage was 13-14lph which I think could be better too.

Today I did a flat highway run with 80-100km/h speed limits, then got rid of the tillix and returned to the factory vac solenoid for the drive home on the same highway. The tillix is capped at 21.5psi, and I was using cruise control.
Here's some results.

Tillix + Needle
  • 80kmh, fourth gear, ~18.5psi
  • 90kmh, fifth gear, ~19psi
  • 100kmh, fifth gear, ~21psi
Tillix + Vacsol
  • 80kmh, fourth gear, ~8.5psi
  • 90kmh, fifth gear, ~11.5psi
  • 100kmh, fifth gear, ~ 13.5psi
In terms of around town, initially I thought I had lost my low down torque, but I was wrong. Once I tested it, I realised I was still hitting 20+psi at about 1900rpm (same as before). In fact, the apparent difference in torque seems to be that between gear changes and with foot off the accelerator, the RPM is dropping off nice and quickly now with the vacsol.
Seems that when I had the needle valve, the RPMs would "hold" higher between gear changes or coming off the accelerator.
My driving style compensated really quickly, and in fact I was finding my gear changes felt a lot smoother because of this. The power is still there when I want it.

I didn't notice any rise in EGT, but having said that my gauge is the combo redarc one which starts at 300 and moves in increments of about 20, so I'm not getting the finer details there.
I also didn't have a chance to try any big uphills at highway speeds, but on some smaller hills around here I would still hit 21psi boost when I kicked the boot in. I think the EGTs will be same as before on long hills, as the boost will be there when under load. Will test this out soon.

Initial fuel economy suggest a significant improvement, although I really need a bigger run to confirm this.
I will say, the final 30min leg of my trip (with scangauge fuel usage reset) which is predominantly 80kmh and about 5 mins of 50-60kmh city, gave me a average fuel economy of 9.4lph. I certainly haven't seen under 10lph since before the remap/tillix.

The noise is seriously improved. That big bloody stainless snorkel (even with the ram head), and all aluminium airbox/pipework seems to generate a lot of induction noise. At highway speeds at 21psi, it's really audible. Sitting at 13ish, it's hardly noticeable.

I'm really happy with the combination of remap + tillix + vacsol

Photos below (obviously taken by my passenger) indicate numbers. Ignore the "AVG" for average fuel consumption on these pics, but "LPH" is the instant fuel usage.
EGT is a separate gauge but remained under the 300 mark for both
View attachment 522066
View attachment 522067

And in case anyone needed a reminder of how to set it up
View attachment 522068

View attachment 522069

Righto so only thing that felt off with the patrol on the last trip was highway performance with the tillix+vacsol setup I mention above.

I've reading and re-reading another thread about tillix + multiple needle setups and have settled on a good setup, which I summarised in this post.
That whole thread was a bit of a mind bender, but I have some basic understanding of it now.

In essence
  • VNT turbos are clever because the vanes open progressively, which gives the turbo a greater functional range
  • The traditional tillix+needle setup essentially makes the turbo operate as a "two-stage" open/closed vanes.
  • Airflow to the engine is much more accurately measured by MAF (grams per second) rather than boost (pressure), as boost is increased by back pressure while actual airflow to the engine is not always optimised
  • We should be trying to increase MAF across the rev range, not just boost
My opinion is that traditional tillix+needle setups "feel" good to most people because it causes an aggressive spool rate at the expense of high boost (back pressure) while cruising, which also increases fuel usage. Constant max boost isn't ideal for the engine or turbo longevity either from what i understand.

Essentially I am using this setup below, but without the "boost needle 1" after the tillix which I have crossed out. It is not necessarily needed as the tillix threads themselves allow a small leak.
The tillix is used for max boost control, spool is set with the spool needle, and the "boost needle 2" allows the turbo vanes to open more progressively as they are designed.

My setup instructions are as follows
  1. Idle engine, boost needle wound all the way in
  2. Play with spool needle while watching actuator. Set spool needle so actuator is JUST barely at the top of it's stroke and lock it there.
  3. Open boost needle half a turn and lock it
  4. Repeat step 2
  5. Go drive and monitor results. If max boost is too high/too low, set tillix accordingly. Not sure if this affects the actuator, but can repeat step 2 again to be sure
  6. Adjust boost needle in small increments (1/4, 1/8 or even less) at a time. Repeat step 2. Monitor results
523819


I was able to kind of scientifically monitor results by setting my Scangauge to show MAF in grams/second, then mounting it under my EGT gauge and hanging my phone off the grab handle. Did test runs with cruise control on flat highway and on big hills with video recording and a lot of commentary. Watched the videos after and made notes. On hill climbs I was really looking for when my EGTs would peak.

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Results have been good.
I have the same low EGTs I was getting with the traditional tillix+needle, but have almost as low cruising boost as I had with the tillix+vacsol. Spool and response still feels just as good as it did with tillix+needle.

I did two arvos of testing and have settled here, but I reckon there's more testing and tweaking to be done.

For anyone who hasn't, I suggest you read and then read again the entire thread on these setups. It's really confusing and for the first 8-10 pages there's a fair bit of bickering which doesn't help.

For now I'm happy, but if someone ever came out with an electronically controlled system I would jump on it
 

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My setup instructions are as follows
  1. Idle engine, boost needle wound all the way in
  2. Play with spool needle while watching actuator. Set spool needle so actuator is JUST barely at the top of it's stroke and lock it there.
  3. Open boost needle half a turn and lock it
  4. Repeat step 2
  5. Go drive and monitor results. If max boost is too high/too low, set tillix accordingly. Not sure if this affects the actuator, but can repeat step 2 again to be sure
  6. Adjust boost needle in small increments (1/4, 1/8 or even less) at a time. Repeat step 2. Monitor results
View attachment 523819
Step 3: Open Boost Needle... So that's Boost Needle 2 in the diagram?

For now I'm happy, but if someone ever came out with an electronically controlled system I would jump on it
Surely you must've read @geeyoutoo build with his Digibooster enhancement, lol.

I'll admit I'm pretty daunted by it all (systems) and seem to confuse myself greater the more I read.
 

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Discussion Starter #192
Step 3: Open Boost Needle... So that's Boost Needle 2 in the diagram?
Correct

Surely you must've read @geeyoutoo build with his Digibooster enhancement, lol.
Yes. It sounds interesting, but a little expensive. The extra needle cost me a case of beer

I'll admit I'm pretty daunted by it all (systems) and seem to confuse myself greater the more I read.
I have to agree. I was (still am) completely in the same boat. I know I have much more to learn, but I guess it's like anything else. Honestly once you just jump in and start doing, things click.

The trouble with learning about this VNT multiple needle stuff is that it's a fairly new concept to most of us, and that main thread detailing it is a bit of a headache.

With the traditional tillix+needle setup, it's more of a matter of "install it like this diagram. Tillix controls max boost, needle controls spool up". Fairly straightforward to follow along, and you don't really need to know how everything is designed to get it working properly.
These new setups are more complicated than that, and it's best to have your head around how everything first. This video helped me

I wanted to update my thread here with my own instructions in order to help make things a little clearer for anyone whos trying to get their head around it. That's also why I reposted the diagram and scribbled out the 3rd needle.

Now when I look at my mess of vacuum/boost hoses it all makes a bit more sense. I ripped it all out and started again.
  • First I just ran one long hose from vacuum source to the actuator (blue line in diagram). I like to think of this as the "spine". Everything comes off there.
  • Then the spool up needle is next. This is the exact same one as the traditional tillix+needle. Important to remember that one end of the spool needle goes to vacuum (blue line aka the spine) and the other is just an ambient air source. On a stock setup, this goes to the resonator box under the air filter/intake. This is just plain ambient air that's not under boost or vacuum! So on my setup, it's just got a little filter in it (see earlier pics of my engine bay). Same thing
    Note: This is why this needle is called the "spool" needle. It's got no boost at either end of it!
  • Finally is the Tillix and boost needles, which was confusing me a little. Just like the spool needle, one end of each of these two valves points toward to the vacuum line (blue/spine). The other end of each of these goes to boost source. I have a line coming off my intercooler pipe with a T piece.
In terms of the plumbing, the last part is what really confused me, but once you realise there's just boost coming in and vacuum at the other end, it's easy... Here's the funny thing, this diagram below is actually the exact same thing as the colourful diagram above. See? Took me a while to have that click
523923
 

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Thanks heaps mate for those extra tips and link. Definitely a touch incapacitated now to comprehend but goes to the library. Have a great weekend.
[edit]might help if I hit post...
 
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