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Discussion Starter #201
@jackbyo mate where did you get the Auscam seat covers? They look proper deadly.
[
F38B4E4E-4029-445A-9F4D-50888E580ACA.jpeg


they’re called sandgroper and I scored them off gumtree for $50. Very nicely made and secure really well to the seats using buckles and Velcro instead of those awful ties.
turns out they were for a slightly different model so the two seat adjustment knobs on the drivers side are covered which is no big deal, but the headrests didn’t fit at all. Got in touch with them over Facebook and had a new set of headrest covers for $40 the next week. I haven’t ever sat on black duck but these feel like they’re just as premium and are ten times more camouflaged 😎 Aus made
525088
 

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[

they’re called sandgroper and I scored them off gumtree for $50. Very nicely made and secure really well to the seats using buckles and Velcro instead of those awful ties.
turns out they were for a slightly different model so the two seat adjustment knobs on the drivers side are covered which is no big deal, but the headrests didn’t fit at all. Got in touch with them over Facebook and had a new set of headrest covers for $40 the next week. I haven’t ever sat on black duck but these feel like they’re just as premium and are ten times more camouflaged 😎 Aus made
AT least 10 times more camouflaged! 🤣 Nice score for 50 bucks. I'll look them up.
 

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@jackbyo $50 that is very cheap, made in WA and have had mine 6 yrs now and not any sign of wear/defects (front/rear (2nd row)/hd rests/console cover $1000. Could do with a clean, but just dust. Bit more than $50_good find mate.
20201023_140815.jpeg
 

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Discussion Starter #204
The stitching on my leather gear knob was coming apart and Garry quoted me the same. But he gave me an option that if I waited 5-6 weeks he could get a Jap import for $105. I think it came in under five.
I may do that one day... The 4wd selector feels a million times better!
 

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[ View attachment 525087

they’re called sandgroper and I scored them off gumtree for $50. Very nicely made and secure really well to the seats using buckles and Velcro instead of those awful ties.
turns out they were for a slightly different model so the two seat adjustment knobs on the drivers side are covered which is no big deal, but the headrests didn’t fit at all. Got in touch with them over Facebook and had a new set of headrest covers for $40 the next week. I haven’t ever sat on black duck but these feel like they’re just as premium and are ten times more camouflaged Aus made
View attachment 525088
That’s alright. My MSA ones cover the seat adjusters also.


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Discussion Starter #206 (Edited)
525863


Not sure if I ever posted this, but this was my solution to carrying pillows, towels and winter jackets somewhere out of the way. $35


So this was the rear at the end of my last trip. Not pretty, but very functional and importantly VERY light.

525864



But honestly, I did prefer having drawers. I can't bring myself to go back to the kings ones 80kg of garbage and rattles.

I have been weighing up (lol) the various drawer options. Criteria is can NOT be all steel and MUST be Australian made.
I keep coming back to Drifta.

People often say Drifta is expensive but I've actually discovered they are one of the cheapest Australian made drawers.

I did an apples-to-apples comparison between the following brands I could find that did Aus made drawers in timber and/or aluminium.
I compared a base model 'Side-by-side' two drawer setup with wings. No additional features such as built in fridge slides etc, no fitting or shipping costs, and all full length/width of rear cargo area. Here's what I found
  • RV Storage solutions (formerly Black Widow)
    • Premium aluminium option
    • Approx 49kg
    • $2449
  • Loaded drawers / Dept of the interior (same company)
    • Ply with runners
    • $2200
    • Built in slide +$430
  • Offroad Systems ORS
    • Aluminium drawers, marine ply carcass.
    • Approx 48kg
    • $2120 (or $1675 for DIY kit)
  • Full boar fourbie drawers
    • Ply with runners
    • $1440
    • Built in slide +$525
  • Drifta
    • Marine ply, no runners
    • $1625
    • Built in slide + flush tie downs +$485

I haven't found out the estimated weights for a couple of them, but will update here as they get back to me. Safe bet that drifta would be the lightest as they just use teflon strips for runners, which gives most usable space too.

ORS is interesting as they do a DIY kit. The bloke on the phone tells me that for the difference, it's worth having someone else do all the carpeting as there's a bit of an art to it. They are local to Sydney so I'll drive down and check them out at some point I think

Loaded Drawers are also local to Sydney. Appears to be the new drawer wing of "department of the interior" who have been making roof consoles etc forever. I went by the showroom and the quality was really impressive.

I don't know anything about Full Boar, but they are from VIC and cheapest I found

So that brings me around to Drifta. One of the cheapest, and a very good reputation. Only a few hours from Sydney. I've seen the quality first hand and am also a fan of their after sales service. They have the best additional features too, such as that slide out table which comes included in the initial cost.

Not sure what way to go. Lead times everywhere have completely blown out, which will be a factor. Initial research tells me the DIY kit from ORS will be available nearly immediately, and Drifta not until April/May next year...
 

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View attachment 525863

Not sure if I ever posted this, but this was my solution to carrying pillows, towels and winter jackets somewhere out of the way. $35


So this was the rear at the end of my last trip. Not pretty, but very functional and importantly VERY light.

View attachment 525864


But honestly, I did prefer having drawers. I can't bring myself to go back to the kings ones 80kg of garbage and rattles.

I have been weighing up (lol) the various drawer options. Criteria is can NOT be all steel and MUST be Australian made.
I keep coming back to Drifta.

People often say Drifta is expensive but I've actually discovered they are one of the cheapest Australian made drawers.

I did an apples-to-apples comparison between the following brands I could find that did Aus made drawers in timber and/or aluminium.
I compared a base model 'Side-by-side' two drawer setup with wings. No additional features such as built in fridge slides etc, no fitting or shipping costs, and all full length/width of rear cargo area. Here's what I found
  • RV Storage solutions (formerly Black Widow)
    • Premium aluminium option
    • Approx 49kg
    • $2449
  • Loaded drawers / Dept of the interior (same company)
    • Ply with runners
    • $2200
    • Built
  • Offroad Systems ORS
    • Aluminium drawers, marine ply carcass.
    • Approx 48kg
    • $2120 (or $1675 for DIY kit)
  • Full boar fourbie drawers
    • Ply with runners
    • $1440
    • Built in slide +$525
  • Drifta
    • Marine ply, no runners
    • $1625
    • Built in slide + flush tie downs +$485

I haven't found out the estimated weights for a couple of them, but will update here as they get back to me. Safe bet that drifta would be the lightest as they just use teflon strips for runners, which gives most usable space too.

ORS is interesting as they do a DIY kit. The bloke on the phone tells me that for the difference, it's worth having someone else do all the carpeting as there's a bit of an art to it. They are local to Sydney so I'll drive down and check them out at some point I think

Loaded Drawers are also local to Sydney. Appears to be the new drawer wing of "department of the interior" who have been making roof consoles etc forever. I went by the showroom and the quality was really impressive.

I don't know anything about Full Boar, but they are from VIC and cheapest I found

So that brings me around to Drifta. One of the cheapest, and a very good reputation. Only a few hours from Sydney. I've seen the quality first hand and am also a fan of their after sales service. They have the best additional features too, such as that slide out table which comes included in the initial cost.

Not sure what way to go. Lead times everywhere have completely blown out, which will be a factor. Initial research tells me the DIY kit from ORS will be available nearly immediately, and Drifta not until April/May next year...
The cargo net is a great idea . Where did you mount the back to ? I see you used the grab handles on the front just curious for the back ? Thanks
 

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Mate, The truck is coming along nicely, plenty of awesome ideas there that I'll be watching with great interest for my own build.

Are those the Front runner wolfpacks strapped to your fridge cage? I'm looking at getting something like those and building a false floor and shelf - similar to what you have now and making the shelf just tall enough to slide the wolfpacks under., as well as making sure that I can add a floor extension from the back of the shelf over the top of the folded down 2nd row for a real long shelf.

Where'd you get that barn door panel and table? Have you found it to be useful?

I've finally got my GVM upgrade and 3rd row delete done, just need to finish the sound deadener install in the front half of the vehicle then i can start building out the rear. One of these days I'll get around to making a build thread.
 

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Discussion Starter #209
Mate, The truck is coming along nicely, plenty of awesome ideas there that I'll be watching with great interest for my own build.

Are those the Front runner wolfpacks strapped to your fridge cage? I'm looking at getting something like those and building a false floor and shelf - similar to what you have now and making the shelf just tall enough to slide the wolfpacks under., as well as making sure that I can add a floor extension from the back of the shelf over the top of the folded down 2nd row for a real long shelf.

Where'd you get that barn door panel and table? Have you found it to be useful?

I've finally got my GVM upgrade and 3rd row delete done, just need to finish the sound deadener install in the front half of the vehicle then i can start building out the rear. One of these days I'll get around to making a build thread.
Thanks mate. My dodgy false floor is working well. It’s the second iteration which was done with the intention of fitting the frontrunner boxes underneath, although in practice they’re better on top for me. They are the cub packs actually which are a touch smaller. I only use them as dry food storage

Yep strapped to the fridge cage which is bloody handy. As is the water Jerrys behind. Still adjusting how I’m gonna keep the rear setup, but cargo barrier would be great too for strapping items to.

I made the barn door table out of some scrap aluminium when I did part of my bash plate. It’s a few pages back on this thread. Absolutely love it. Use it all the time.
 

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Discussion Starter #210
The cargo net is a great idea . Where did you mount the back to ? I see you used the grab handles on the front just curious for the back ? Thanks
It’s on the grab handles in the rear too. If I do get a cargo barrier will need a rethink though as it sits right across where a barrier would sit
 

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Thanks mate. My dodgy false floor is working well. It’s the second iteration which was done with the intention of fitting the frontrunner boxes underneath, although in practice they’re better on top for me. They are the cub packs actually which are a touch smaller. I only use them as dry food storage

Yep strapped to the fridge cage which is bloody handy. As is the water Jerrys behind. Still adjusting how I’m gonna keep the rear setup, but cargo barrier would be great too for strapping items to.

I made the barn door table out of some scrap aluminium when I did part of my bash plate. It’s a few pages back on this thread. Absolutely love it. Use it all the time.
I'm also in half a mind to ditch my long shelf idea and go with a cargo barrier, mainly to protect my skull, and to strap stuff to. still undecided honestly. I've got so many ideas that I'm not sure which way to go. I'd really love a Cargo Barrier with a door in it, or at least a removeable panel so I can setup to sleep inside it if need-be.

It’s on the grab handles in the rear too. If I do get a cargo barrier will need a rethink though as it sits right across where a barrier would sit
Could you attach it to the rear seatbelt top bolt?
 

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Discussion Starter #212
Could you attach it to the rear seatbelt top bolt?
I did try that, but it makes it sit a little low. Definitely an option

I'd really love a Cargo Barrier with a door in it, or at least a removeable panel so I can setup to sleep inside it if need-be.
At one point, I was trying to build my setup around the idea of sleeping inside the vehicle on occasion. Personally I found it was just too much compromise to have a flat deck to sleep on with enough usable storage.
I've stealthed camped a few times in other vehicles before when the need has arisen, and it's always been pretty crappy. You end up having stuff all over your sleeping area every day and then you've gotta rearrange the whole vehicle to make it work. And you wake up in the morning with every window soaked with breath condensation.
These days if I were in a situation like that, I'd go find a motel lol

Personally I cant ignore the cargo barrier thing anymore. Everything unsecured in a crash is a projectile that could kill...
Here's a good video

 

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Personally I cant ignore the cargo barrier thing anymore. Everything unsecured in a crash is a projectile that could kill...
Here's a good video

well...that video has made my mind up. Cargo Barrier it is. But first i gotta finish the Sound deadener install on the floor and run some cabling. I really don't want to be pulling a cargo barrier in and out too many times.
 

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View attachment 525863

Not sure if I ever posted this, but this was my solution to carrying pillows, towels and winter jackets somewhere out of the way. $35
Thanks for posting that, I bought one yesterday, unfortunately it won't be here in time for my next trip. I can fit it in front of the cage for light fluffy stuff or behind the cage for slightly heavier items. Thanks again, that is the value of this great forum (and the info is here forever not 5 minutes).
 

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Discussion Starter #215
Thanks for posting that, I bought one yesterday, unfortunately it won't be here in time for my next trip. I can fit it in front of the cage for light fluffy stuff or behind the cage for slightly heavier items. Thanks again, that is the value of this great forum (and the info is here forever not 5 minutes).
Agreed. That's part of the reason I started this build thread – As I figure things out from past posts, maybe my posts will help someone else in the same way (e.g. the DIY boost leak tester)

That net worked out very well. I actually also bought this one. A "Large" Boab net which was about $140. It didn't fit as well as the ebay special and I returned it. The "sidetracked" patrol on youtube uses this one but it appears to be mounted more tautly than I could figure out

There's also this number which fits in the rear. I plan to put the soft one over the middle row seats and this one over the rear (depending how it fits with my new stacked drawers)


Note, they do a slightly different and cheaper model rear shelf that seems to attach to their half cargo barrier. The link above is for the stand alone rear shelf which attaches to the rearmost grab handles only.

I think I'm going to buy the combination cargo barrier/rear shelf for $500. I understand that the cargo barrier has not undergone ADR testing/compliance and is sold as a "pet/luggage barrier" only, however from reviews they are very tough Australian made laser cut/pressed steel.
With my new drawers, I could pretty safely get away with no cargo barrier at all as the drawers are stacked quite high and I will probably only have soft items on top.
More as a means to tie those soft items down for myself I think.

Still working out my plans to incorporate a new water storage system, cargo barrier and drawers. May in fact remove the middle row seats too, as my drawers have come with middle row shelf... Big plans!
 

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Discussion Starter #216
Been a while since I've posted but I have been busy on the patrol...

One thing I was never happy with was the how high the Drifta RTT sat on the roof bars. Even though they were the lowest ones I could find, it still sat high. The reason was that the RTT, although very slim, has two full length extrusions that run from front to back. You can see them from their youtube video screenshot below

Also note the smooth bars (x 9) which run side to side. We'll come back to them in a sec

526996


So the whole thing sits on top of the roof bars, meaning that the actual tent ends up pretty high.
You can see it from my earlier post here

0E3D66AA-5080-48B9-9B41-CE85FDD90442.jpeg

527006



And as of today, it's sitting like this

526999


527000

I think it's only dropped a total of about 50mm total (I never measured before), but it's made a MASSIVE difference to how it looks. I imagine it will help the handling, aerodynamics and fuel consumption somewhat too.

Here's how I did it

These are from bunnings and are a perfect fit for the bars that run side-to-side. Picked up 8 of them

527001



I ordered a set of generic gutter-mount roof rack brackets from OCAM. These are pretty ubiquitous and look identical to those sold by kings and even ARB.

They're pretty robust. Powder coated steel with stainless hardware.

Unfortunately the slots in the brackets were a little too narrow, so I measured up the gap of the u-bolts (about 48mm) and drilled some extra holes and touched them up with black paint
527002


Then I cut some of the thread off the u-bolt as they were too long. The one on the right is uncut. Hot tip, use two nuts tightened against each other for a nice flat edge to cut against. The angle grinder made a mess, so I used a dremel

527003


Then hey presto, the square u-bolts go around the smooth side-to-side bars and through the holes in the black gutter-mount brackets.
Used some jumbo nuts as spacers, washer, spring washer etc I had lying around.

Result:
527004


So the extrusion bar is still there, hanging lower than the mounting point. This helps spread the load evenly as the extrusion is bolted to every single cross bar.

Now the roof has some taper to it front and back, but in the very middle the gap from the roof to the extrusion (lowest point) is only about 25mm

527005



Now I could get the whole thing a touch lower still, if I removed the extrusion, cut the gutter mounts down, and added some kind of hard reinforced floor to the tent.... But can NOT be bothered. This whole process took me days and several bunnings trips. Also this way I haven't had to modify the tent itself.

Next job for the tent is adding a wind deflector to the front. I know @geordie4x4 has done the same and I want to copy him (again)

I'll update again soon as I have done a complete overhaul of the rear interior setup. Got a couple final touches before the big reveal :D
 

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Discussion Starter #217 (Edited)
Righto so the interior has had a major overhaul

This is the before...
527206



And this is the after
527208


Yep. Picked up some second hand drifta drawers in great condition. They were for a prado but I checked with Drifta and the same GU unit is only about 15mm longer/wider.

The weight of the Drifta unit is about 60kg, which includes the built-in slide and drifta table.
The weight before (including waeco slide, cage, blow-mould table and false floor) was approx 55-60kg. So have done well for weight

I also picked up a Kaon "soft luggage/pet" barrier. With the drawer unit I only needed a half barrier.
This thing is really nice powder coated pressed steel, made in Australia. Although it's not rated like a proper cargo barrier, its very solid. It only has to stop soft items that are sitting on top of the drawers and not secured.
You can see it here, including my $35 ebay roof net which now hangs over the middle row seats, and is used exclusively for pillows and towels.

527209



The Kaon barrier is designed to mount via the middle row headrests, which I didn't want as it prevents you folding the seats forward. Found some brackets in the garage and bunnings and got it mounted solidly to the Drifta unit. The screws are temporary. At some point I will replace them with bolts and spray paint the brackets black
527210


The reason I want to fold the middle row forward is probably the coolest thing about this whole setup.... Batman weapon storage :cool:
527211


Used some Tuff Terrain rubber clamps from Outback equipment for the axe and shovel. Knock offs of quickfist and cheap as chips

There's a little forward facing shelf which is great storage on top for my tool roll, and underneath for infrequently used stuff like tyre plug kit and jumper cables. The service manual fits perfectly under the seat
527212


You can also see my fuse block mounted up high. One thing I didn't like at all before was my fuse block was sitting directly underneath my water jerry cans.
Now it sits up nice and high, and the water jerry cans have been replaced by.....

527213


A frontrunner 40L footwell water tank... Fits perfectly, and puts all that weight between the axles and very low down.
Right now have just got the water hoses sitting there, but the passenger side will clip to the door soon.
I was planning on doing a 12v pump to the rear, but will test it out as just a gravity setup for now. Less complexity is good!

I'm really stoked with the setup. I added a few "rok straps" to the top of the drifta unit. These are amazing tie downs as one half is elasticated, so even if items shift around it stays taught.
527214


A frontrunner cub pack fits perfectly. I may add some wings to this setup but for now having the sides open suits me
527215
 

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Discussion Starter #218
And to finish it all off I grabbed some Australian made canvas storage bags from Grab Me Gear. These are really nicely made/designed and not expensive. Got a storage bag, several pouches and a simple velcro dash pouch. Will get more of their stuff for sure

527217

527218

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