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Discussion Starter · #223 ·
Good stuff mate. I've been sleeping on the second needle for a while, will definitely give it a go now. Nice rig.
i Have gone back to a single needle and Tillix. I couldn’t get it dialled in properly and kept having EGT issues.

having said that, others have had great success. I don’t think I have the patience or level of understanding to get it tweaked perfectly. I would really like more low down torque though.
 

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Discussion Starter · #225 ·
Right so I decided to remove and sell the roof top tent. I put a deposit down on a Motop 135, but ended up cancelling that too... read on....

I had a few issues with the Drifta Stockton Wild Land 1.4 or whatever they call it. Mainly because I was one of the first 30 guinea pigs that bought it on pre-order, sight unseen.

Three main issues I had.

  • Firstly the width. The width was originally stated to be 1400mm overall, however this turned out to be internal mattress size. It's now on their website as 1500mm wide which is probably more accurate. I think it sat far too wide on the patrol which you can see in some of my previous pictures, especially when the awning was mounted. The Motop I was going to buy is 1430mm wide, which i've seen on other patrols and looks good.
    I tried the slim version of the Drifta and it was way too cozy for two adults

  • Secondly the weight and mattress. Caveat: Both the motop and the Drifta need a mattress upgrade, annoying but it is apples to apples.
    The Drifta is 9kg lighter than the motop which was a big factor for me. However the Drifta has a soft floor which means to upgrade the mattress you need to add a sheet of ply to give it some structure. I bought this from Drifta (cut to size and carpeted perfectly) which came in at 11kg. The Motop doesn't need this base as it's a rigid floor, so with the same mattress the motop is actually lighter

  • Finally, the height. This drove me a bit nuts actually, and you can see a previous post where I attempted to fix this. The Drifta was originally sold as 160mm high when closed. As it turns out, it has 30mm rails on the bottom that you use to mount it, or your warranty is forfeit. So it's actually 190mm AND requires roof racks to mount it. The result is that it sits 60-90mm higher than the Motop does, which is genuinely 160mm.
    I did work a way around this, but I never actually lay in it for fear I would bend the aluminium bars that ran left to right. I was going to put it back to how it was before, but ended up selling it.

Now, had I been able to see it in the flesh first, I may not have bought it. However it worked out really well in the end, as I actually didn't lose any money in the process. It was much cheaper on pre-order, but has steadily gone up to $3200 since 😵. The new owners got a good deal, and I got to fund the next mods for tesy 🤓
 

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Discussion Starter · #226 · (Edited)
I made another thread about the weight of my patrol. In summary, the patrol would be right over GVM when loaded up for a trip with me and my missus, even though (aside from the RTT) my patrol is fairly "lightweight".
There's a really good discussion on that thread about weights and GVM upgrades, worth a read. However my plan is to not GVM upgrade, but just ditch weight instead.

By pure coincidence, the day I sold the Drifta RTT (just one day before mounting the Motop RTT) I had to do a tip run. That's when I discovered Tesy weighing in at 2.92t with hardly any camping gear or misso on board.

I also discovered something else... The Patrol drove noticeably better without 70kg on the roof.

So with those two discoveries, I'm on a mission to lose as much weight as possible from old Tesy

I never have passengers except my partner, so today I pulled out the middle row seats which came in at 21.2kg each.
Then the Drifta drawer unit which was 66.75kg total
So 110kg down just like that.

I then went to bunnings to make a start on a new storage plan.
I can definitely feel the difference again with all this weight out of the car and off the roof. It's pretty incredible how much livelier it feels to drive.

So the rough plan is to have a simple floating false floor in the rear and the fridge behind the front passenger seat. Here's a good pic from a thread on the other forum. You might need to sign up to see the rest of them. This is similar to how I want to build my new false floor.
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With the seats out, I popped my fridge down and it fits with the water tank well, is a great height and very easy to access.
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I also noticed that there's a hell of a lot of space above it. If I build the rear false floor to sit just higher than the fridge, I could potentially even have a big double sleeping platform. About the same head height as a double swag. Did you end up building yours @J0SHMAN ?

I am following a great video from the sidetracked guys (surprise surprise), who has recently changed his internal setup. Although he went for the frontrunner drawers in the back, which come in at 76kg! About the same as the kings ones.
His setup at the middle row seats is perfect inspiration though, and he seems to be a very competent tradie no less

So with that I used a jigsaw today for maybe the 4th time in my life. TBH it was really tricky scribing the trim perfectly, but once carpeted it should look decent.
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I also noticed this gate hardware thing at bunnings. Sits exactly 1400mm wide which is about perfect for the rear, and 25mm square RHS just slots in. Looks like a good way to make a rock solid frame if you're like me and don't know how to weld

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Hey Mate, looking good. I'm really enjoying seeing your thought process and the considerations you're making in the build. One thing I'd consider: leave room/plan on the dual battery system eventually moving in to cabin. It'll bring some weight off the front springs and might make the drivability even better.

Are you going to install the carbuilders before you bolt a false floor down? and don't forget to leave access to the access panel for the top of the fuel tanks. I'm keen to see how your rear shelf comes together, I haven't made any progress on mine outside of thinking about it a whole lot, but I'm still pretty set on still going down that road for my build. I'm still trying to workout how my system is all going to go together and the various use cases I have - i still want to retain use of my backseats as seats in a pinch. For any long trips I'll definitely be removing them, but for the day-to-day, i'd still like them in to satisfy Mr. Plod.

Where'd you get that footwell water tank? I definitely think I need something like that.
 

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Discussion Starter · #228 ·
Hey Mate, looking good. I'm really enjoying seeing your thought process and the considerations you're making in the build. One thing I'd consider: leave room/plan on the dual battery system eventually moving in to cabin. It'll bring some weight off the front springs and might make the drivability even better.

Are you going to install the carbuilders before you bolt a false floor down? and don't forget to leave access to the access panel for the top of the fuel tanks. I'm keen to see how your rear shelf comes together, I haven't made any progress on mine outside of thinking about it a whole lot, but I'm still pretty set on still going down that road for my build. I'm still trying to workout how my system is all going to go together and the various use cases I have - i still want to retain use of my backseats as seats in a pinch. For any long trips I'll definitely be removing them, but for the day-to-day, i'd still like them in to satisfy Mr. Plod.

Where'd you get that footwell water tank? I definitely think I need something like that.
yeah I’ll definitely do carbuilders, but no need right now. The seats go in and out with 4 bolts. Piss easy. Im making this first false floor to use just two bolts.

with the middle row, it’s a compromise between camp mode and passenger mode. I have almost never had anyone in the back, so I’m not too worried.
however will be a 10 minute process to swap out the fridge, water tank and false floor for the seats. Not too fussed there. The pros of having all that weight low and between the axles far outweighs the cons. I’m still amazed I won’t even need a fridge slide.
water tank is front runner, although there’s some other similar and cheaper options from outback equipment. This frontrunner unit has a cutout for the trans tunnel, which is not necessary in the GU. I’m thinking it will make using a pump a little tricky at low water levels as the water may be trapped on the other side. Not a big deal but a thought.


in dieting news, I got the false floor sitting much nicer against the trim this morning. The hard part was scribing the edges with a pencil, but I got there by using a big washer, a rubber grommet, and a pencil shoved through the middle.
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Hood Textile Sleeve Automotive tire Automotive exterior


Way nicer fit!
Now working out some ways to keep it secured down and also some tie down points for the fridge
 

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nicely done! i'll be using that pencil trick when it comes time for me to build. you could look at using Tee-nuts for securing the fridge/etc. I saw the sidetracked fella use them and you can get them from bunnings as well.

I've also thought about routing out a slot in the ply (might need pretty thick ply to make this work) and laying down some tie-down track. https://www.bunnings.com.au/grunt-30cm-aluminium-o-tracks-2-pack_p4310814 if you look around online you can find much longer lengths of it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #230 · (Edited)
nicely done! i'll be using that pencil trick when it comes time for me to build. you could look at using Tee-nuts for securing the fridge/etc. I saw the sidetracked fella use them and you can get them from bunnings as well.

I've also thought about routing out a slot in the ply (might need pretty thick ply to make this work) and laying down some tie-down track. https://www.bunnings.com.au/grunt-30cm-aluminium-o-tracks-2-pack_p4310814 if you look around online you can find much longer lengths of it.
I actually did use the T-nuts for the brackets, just like the sidetracked build, however I've removed them. To have them work properly they need to be "pulled" in by the bolt from underneath, which means the T-nut goes on top, which means it sits just slightly proud of the timber. Although the carpet over the top would probably hide it fine.

The other problem was needing to completely tighten the bracket to that T-nut before dropping the platform in place. It's hard to describe, but that T-Nut bolt is better left finger tight until everything else is tightened up properly, then locking it in place. I've instead changed to countersunk bolts from the top and have used quick-steel to make the nut underneath captive.

@J0SHMAN the tie down track is a great idea and was definitely part of my original plan. The Sidetracked guy again shows some great tricks to having it sit nice and flush.
Unfortunately I didn't realise what you already clocked – you need 18mm ply to have them recessed, as the rails themselves are about 10mm thick. I'm using 12mm ply and can't be bothered doing it again, so abandoned that plan.
I got some recessed tie down points from BCF. The ones from Bunnings were too big and not spring loaded (rattlers).
I also got carpet from an upholstery shop nearby. The trick I learned was to use "4 way stretch" carpet which works MUCH better on these contours and is very forgiving compared to the typical carpet I've used in the past. Carbuilders sells it. I went with black as the charcoal wasn't a good match for the patrol charcoal anyway.

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Discussion Starter · #231 ·
Finished product. Really took my time but very happy with the result. The fridge housing is kind of the centerpiece of a storage solution I suppose. This little platform weighs about 2kg, eliminates the need for a fridge slide, cage and a rear seat. That's a lot of weight saved.
I can easily grab stuff from the fridge from the driver's seat, and also through the window with the door closed.
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The platform mounts with those two seat bolt brackets.
At the back, I ended up using two tool clips from bunnings to latch on to the factory seat striker. It holds the empty panel down quite firmly, but pops off easily enough. I used a cabinet latch originally that you can see in the post above, which ended up not having enough grab to stop the panel lifting out, hence the extra screw holes you can see in the pic below.
In order to line up that striker perfectly without measuring, I bolted my panel in at the front then made sure it was sitting exactly where I wanted. You then place a bit of scrap timber roughly where the striker is, then thump it with a mallet. That left a perfect indent which you can see easily
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Damn man, that is looking mint. those tool clips are a fantastic idea. I'm loving the idea of only taking out half the 2nd row as well. That's something that I might look into doing. I like that thefridge handle sneaks in over the door handle, was that dumb luck or careful planning?

One of these days I'll need to make a decision and start building, lol. I'm happy to see that you've managed to shave more than 100kg off the rig with this work. when you include the weight off the roof you've probably removed over 200kg for touring. That'll be a massive improvement all round.

Keep it up I'm keen to see how the rest of the new setup goes!
 

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Discussion Starter · #233 · (Edited)
was that dumb luck
you better believe it 😎

you've probably removed over 200kg for touring.
Well I will have to add some of that back in once I decide on a new sleep system and whatever I decide for the back. I do think I want a roof rack or rails again, basically just for awning and solar. I'm estimating a saving of 120-150kg from my previous setup when I'm done though!

In terms of the back, I have no idea how to proceed. I want a neat false floor like I posted above, but am debating having it high enough to go over the fridge and become a sleeping platform. I measured about 65cm between the top of the fridge and the roof, which isn't that bad compared to most swags. The space underneath would be plenty for camping gear. Also factoring in keeping a spot free for a future pup since my old boy died last year. I did want another big dog but now I'm thinking about the weight savings of pomeranian 🧐
 

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you could make the Pomeranian a bed in the front passenger door pocket!

I just had the ARB base rack put on yesterday. I went with it for several reasons; it's lighter, stronger and cheaper than the equivalent Rhino, and Front Runner is just extortionist at the moment. The new dovetail mounting system looks very robust, and should be unique enough to stop any thieves. It's a very neat unit; fully welded, 150kg load limit, slim profile. It could be lower to the roof, but I'm not too fussed about that. It's also narrower than other options out there so its really suits the shape of the patrol. I'll get some photos this weekend and slap them up in my thread.

I also went with a platform for ultimate versatility - solar, awning, firewood, work lights, recovery gear/tracks, spare tire carcass, etc. Still trying to work out what goes on the roof, but This rifle case from supercheap should fit 4x maxtrax, and probably the majority of recovery straps/fittings etc.

For the back, I'm looking at probably making a draw box, but without the drawers. the final dimensions will depend on what size storage box I decide to go with. I'm really tempted to bite the bullet and get a few of the wolfpacks with the high-lid.
 

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Discussion Starter · #235 · (Edited)
I just had the ARB base rack put on yesterday. I went with it for several reasons; it's lighter, stronger and cheaper than the equivalent Rhino
I'm assuming you got the largest one at 2125 x 1285. That's very lightweight at 22.8kg + mounting kit
How much did you pay?

I was just making a spreadsheet of all the flat rack options out there and comparing them. Had forgot the ARB. From what I've found, you've gotten the lightest one


Got some more done on Tesy today. Finally fitted up my Victron Smartshunt today. I went with the bluetooth only one, because it's far less wiring and less gauges on my dash the better. I've not had any form of battery monitor for my AGM before now which isn't very clever.
It's not IP68 rated or whatever, but have been told that failures due to being mounted in the engine bay are unheard of. Regardless I have bought a little waterproof ABS box and have plans to mount it with cable glands etc. No rush for now.

The three negatives going into the shunt are aux fuse box, DCDC charger (incl solar) and the negative direct from the starter battery. Very simple setup
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I was particularly proud of this little 6b&s cable I made. Getting better with my wiring
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And this is a screenshot of the app from the victron website. You can see it monitors amp draw as well as voltage. If I turn the fridge on, the amp draw changes within one second. It also comes with a little cable you can run to your starter battery to keep an eye on that one too (voltage only)

You also get graphs, low charge alarms and all this other crap I'll probably never use

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I'm assuming you got the largest one at 2125 x 1285. That's very lightweight at 22.8kg + mounting kit
How much did you pay?

I was just making a spreadsheet of all the flat rack options out there and comparing them. Had forgot the ARB. From what I've found, you've gotten the lightest one
I'll double check after work, the rack itself might be light but i'm sure that doesnt include the feet, and they're all steel and quite beefy, so I imagine there would be a bit of weight in those - probably another 6-10kg? but in the grand scheme of things, still comes in lighter than comparable options.

I've also 90% convinced myself to not permanently put solar on the roof rack. if i'm parked up for a few days, i don't want to have to park my car in the sun, i'd rather have a blanket or something that I can move around to follow the sun. If i'm driving, the solar doesn't really matter... and while i'm at home....i'm not really using the second battery much anyway.

EDIT: I just checked the quick photos i took yesterday arvo, I got the big boy - 2125x1285

Double EDIT: I didn't get the wind deflector (an extra $140!!!) and i haven't noticed any appreciable noise from the rack at 100km/hr. That was easy money saved to better spend on other things. (magic box?)

The price for me, which is regional pricing (higher than metro pricing I think)
Rack - $1,164
Feet - $390
Fitting labour - $120

$1,674 all up, cheaper than the supply only price for equivalent sized Rhino, and nearly a full $400 cheaper than supply only for the Front runner.
 

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Discussion Starter · #237 ·
I'll double check after work, the rack itself might be light but i'm sure that doesnt include the feet, and they're all steel and quite beefy, so I imagine there would be a bit of weight in those - probably another 6-10kg? but in the grand scheme of things, still comes in lighter than comparable options.

I've also 90% convinced myself to not permanently put solar on the roof rack. if i'm parked up for a few days, i don't want to have to park my car in the sun, i'd rather have a blanket or something that I can move around to follow the sun. If i'm driving, the solar doesn't really matter... and while i'm at home....i'm not really using the second battery much anyway.

EDIT: I just checked the quick photos i took yesterday arvo, I got the big boy - 2125x1285

Double EDIT: I didn't get the wind deflector (an extra $140!!!) and i haven't noticed any appreciable noise from the rack at 100km/hr. That was easy money saved to better spend on other things. (magic box?)

The price for me, which is regional pricing (higher than metro pricing I think)
Rack - $1,164
Feet - $390
Fitting labour - $120

$1,674 all up, cheaper than the supply only price for equivalent sized Rhino, and nearly a full $400 cheaper than supply only for the Front runner.
that’s brilliant mate. How many feet are there? 6 or 8?

Do they look like these generic gutter mounts? These come in at exactly 1kg each, and can actually be modified to sit as low as you want, like 10mm from the roof
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Discussion Starter · #239 ·
It only has 6 feet, and they look vaguely like that, though slightly beefier? I can't see a way of really making them shorter.

Heres a bunch of pics.
View attachment 531073 View attachment 531065 View attachment 531066 View attachment 531067 View attachment 531068 View attachment 531069 View attachment 531070 View attachment 531070 View attachment 531071 View attachment 531072
That looks like a great roof rack. Very much in proportion with the car. A lot of the other ones are wider. The rhino pioneer was 1426mm wide, and the kings one is 1485mm and 48kg! 😳

Yeah those legs look like the same design, but ARB quality. The ones I have are from ocam and are probably the same ones kings uses. They're fine though.

Here's the write up of how to cut them down shorter.
 

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Ah! I see now. I might go poking around the feet tomorrow and see if they have the same design. Though these are all new and nicely powder coated, so I'd hate to ruin them.

That looks like a great roof rack. Very much in proportion with the car. A lot of the other ones are wider. The rhino pioneer was 1426mm wide, and the kings one is 1485mm and 48kg! 😳
All of these points were huge deciding factors in going with the Base rack. Weight and width.

The fitment of accessories and even the feet to this rack are all really nice, well designed and thought-out. Though they're all completely custom and you've kinda gotta buy into the ecosystem (though I'm looking at custom making some brackets)
 
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