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09 ZD30 CRD Wagon
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Discussion Starter #121
Great trip review, looks like it was a good weekend away. I'm very keen to see what you come up with in regards to water storage. I've not seen the rear-quarter panel bladders but i've been toying with the idea of a 30-40L tank in behind the rear seats at the back (front?) of my drawer system. How does the bladder system protect against dust and other crap rubbing through it?


I spent my weekend doing some exploring and also noticed the road noise was pretty loud at times, and almost unbearable on corrugated roads, Before I seriously start to build out the interior of my vehicle I'd planned on pulling up the carpet to make sure any holes are filled and sealed, I may as well add a good whack of sound-proofing to it at the same time. Thanks for the link to that car builders kit, it looks the goods.
This is the water bladder for a series 4. It's only 30L (40L for earlier models), but coupled with a 20L jerry would be loads. I firmly believe that water should be carried in at least two containers in case one fails.
The brand is "fleximake" which is a respected mob and made in Australia. I've seen a lot of favourable reviews for this setup which uses up the empty space in the rear quarter. See pics on that ebay link. Doesn't work for the later models or Ti that have the rear aircon I believe.

The carbuilders kit is definitely looks promising. I have bought a few things off them and they're very happy for a chat and advice. I did heaps of research comparing buying various brands (ebay crap etc) to save money, but ultimately found those kits to be the best value.
 

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09 ZD30 CRD Wagon
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Discussion Starter #122
Also look at these options



I like the idea of them too, but I'll use empty space wherever I can
 

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Ah....I'm pretty sure my patrol has the rear cooler which takes up the space behind my passenger-side rear quarter panel...so no hidden water bladder for my rig. though I am tempted to look into removing that rear cooler as I've no longer got the 3rd row seats.
 

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09 ZD30 CRD Wagon
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Discussion Starter #124
So as much as I liked the Dats Cool kit, there was one problem which I assumed was installer error. I wrote about it a bit on this thread.
When under boost (About 15psi and up), it was making a high pitched squeal. Here's a video to illustrate the awful noise.

It was LOUD. Even at highway speeds. Really bothered me and got some heads turning. I had to turn my tillix down to 12psi to make driving bearable while I figured it out. Made sense it was a boost leak, but I triple checked all the silicone joins which have high quality T-clamps and they were tight as.

Mighty car mods to the rescue.

So I built my own boost leak tester. Because I don't have a workshop compressor, I used a tyre valve instead of the snap on air fitting they have. This let me use my regular 4wd air compressor (kings thumper max) instead.

The leak tester was easy enough to make with a few spare silicone hoses I had around, a few PVC pipe connectors and some araldite. Total about $20 from bunnings.
I made a 90 degree bend for turbo outlet one, so I could reach it with the tyre inflator. Would've been way easier if I removed the airbox-to-turbo intake hose but got there eventually.

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Capped off the end of the pipe work just before the throttle body joiner with the 2.5" on the left in the pic above.
Here's the 1.5" at the start of the pipework, right above the turbo. Tight squeeze
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Hooked up the air compressor and within seconds I had the squeal! The thumper max with the 3-in-1 inflator was really helpful as when you take your thumb off the inflator trigger, the compressor has an auto cutoff, which means I could run around the cold side listening for the exact location of the squeal. The noise turned from the squeal to a whoosh really quickly, but eventually I found it.
Turned out to be a pinhole leak on the weld around the bung that goes to the MAF. Here's a vid

Thank god. I spoke to Ben from Dats Cool, and he apologised profusely. Explained he was training a young bloke and it might have slipped by him (always the apprentices fault). He offered to express post me a new cold side pipe, or pay to have it welded professionally.

Being the impatient bastard I am and not wanting to remove any pipework, I found a tube of JB Weld steelstik and slapped some of that on
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This is AMAZING stuff. Cures to a hardness comparable with actual welds, can be drilled and tapped etc. I used way too much, but it was hard to see what I was doing in my defence
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Let it cure for a bit, then came back and pressure tested it again.
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It happily sat there holding 24psi indefinitely. I actually pushed it up to 30psi, but the tillix (or needle?) started to make a funny chirping noise so I backed it off.

Got it all back together and did a shakedown at 22psi. Goes even better than before! And NO funny noises.

Cant wait to get this thing back on the dyno.
 

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damn. good find. glad you found the leak, i can only imagine how irritating that would be.

and +1 for that metal putty stuff. I bounced on a rock and punched a hole in the rear diff of my navara back in the day, and had to do a trail-side patch with some metal putty. that stuff held up real well for a few months till I could find a replacement housing. I don't go anywhere off road with out it.
 

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Discussion Starter #126
damn. good find. glad you found the leak, i can only imagine how irritating that would be.

and +1 for that metal putty stuff. I bounced on a rock and punched a hole in the rear diff of my navara back in the day, and had to do a trail-side patch with some metal putty. that stuff held up real well for a few months till I could find a replacement housing. I don't go anywhere off road with out it.
Yep it was unbearable. As was running around at 12psi to avoid it. Really rendered my FMIC performance benefits pointless for a while there.
It may be a placebo, but now that there's no leak, it feels substantially more responsive. Really throwing me back in my seat. Maybe I'm just excited to floor it again now that I don't have a banshee wail though? In any case, lost air is definitely lost speed.

I forgot, before I get it on the dyno I am doing my LAST engine performance modification (until something breaks), which is fit up the Ben Lipscombe airbox + Fatz intake plumbing + Fabwitz turbo inlet combo. At
Looks like removing the turbo inlet is the annoying part and may require removing the alternator which requires removing the drive belt, which is something I've never done! Although probably just the kind of bush mechanics worth knowing.


And yes, I've never used that steelstik putty before. It's been sitting around for a couple years. Definitely has a place in my toolkit now. I actually was really happy with how this whole fix turned out, as I barely spent anything. Almost bought a commercial boost leak tester for over $100 before doing the PVC one. I must have been influenced by the DIY attitude of @geeyoutoo and @geordie4x4 (y)
 

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Yep it was unbearable. As was running around at 12psi to avoid it. Really rendered my FMIC performance benefits pointless for a while there.
It may be a placebo, but now that there's no leak, it feels substantially more responsive. Really throwing me back in my seat. Maybe I'm just excited to floor it again now that I don't have a banshee wail though? In any case, lost air is definitely lost speed.

I forgot, before I get it on the dyno I am doing my LAST engine performance modification (until something breaks), which is fit up the Ben Lipscombe airbox + Fatz intake plumbing + Fabwitz turbo inlet combo. At
Looks like removing the turbo inlet is the annoying part and may require removing the alternator which requires removing the drive belt, which is something I've never done! Although probably just the kind of bush mechanics worth knowing.


And yes, I've never used that steelstik putty before. It's been sitting around for a couple years. Definitely has a place in my toolkit now. I actually was really happy with how this whole fix turned out, as I barely spent anything. Almost bought a commercial boost leak tester for over $100 before doing the PVC one. I must have been influenced by the DIY attitude of @geeyoutoo and @geordie4x4 (y)
Mate goodonya, there are so many little things that if you sit down and think about them there are cheap and effective ways to get the same result as spending a bloody fortune, my whole build thread has been about using what you have and adapting/modifying gear for a better and reliable result, mines no slug either.
 

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Discussion Starter #128
Mate goodonya, there are so many little things that if you sit down and think about them there are cheap and effective ways to get the same result as spending a bloody fortune, my whole build thread has been about using what you have and adapting/modifying gear for a better and reliable result, mines no slug either.
Thanks mate.

Funnily enough, the off-the-shelf boost leak tester would never have worked because the pipe off the turbo faces directly down. Would've been impossible to get the air line onto it. So the $1.40 elbow from bunnings was a necessity!
 

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@jackbyo removing the drive belt is real easy on a ZD30. However...putting it back on by yourself is doable, but easier with a second person. from memory, you should only need a 17mm (or maybe 19mm?) spanner/socket. And is much easier if you use a socket on a long breaker bar as you need to overcome the tensioner spring. Depending on the age of your belt, i'd look at rotating in a new one at the same time.
 

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Well done for finding it, that must have been as annoying as hell. Top points for ingenuity.

I love that plastic steel epoxy stuff, it's so handy for a bush repair. Have done as few radiator repairs on older vehicles and it lasts years. The unused stuff does eventually go hard in the tube if there's only a little bit left it seems to dry and harden. But definitely something to keep in the toolbox.
 

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Thanks mate.

Funnily enough, the off-the-shelf boost leak tester would never have worked because the pipe off the turbo faces directly down. Would've been impossible to get the air line onto it. So the $1.40 elbow from bunnings was a necessity!
I built my own colling system pressure testing unit a while back out of bits and pieces in the shed.

Re belt tensioner post here, I use a pair of multigrips on the steering link to lock the breaker bar behind when doing the serpentine belt, that way you can do it on your own.
 

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Discussion Starter #133
Today I started what I bloody well hope is the LAST of the engine mods (Unless/until something breaks).
I'm sick of working in the engine bay, and am really excited to get started on suspension and 12v stuff...

Anyway I still have the new pod filter airbox and fatz pipework sitting around. For some reason I decided I simply had to upgrade the turbo inlet at the same time to the Fabwitz 2.5". I'm sure it will make no difference, but once I got the ball rolling I had to keep going.

Alternator was definitely in the way, so first thing was get the serpentine belt off.

Re belt tensioner post here, I use a pair of multigrips on the steering link to lock the breaker bar behind when doing the serpentine belt, that way you can do it on your own.
This was a great trick! Thanks. made it easy to take off. Hopefully just as easy to put back on
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By the way, take a look at the crankshaft nut/bolt/frankenstein-fix (Page 2). We marked it with that white line when installing. Has not budged a mm. So far so good! Does need a bit of rust protection though

With the belt off, I was able to get the alternator out of the way enough to get at the turbo inlet.
Holy crap what an annoying job!! Getting that back bolt off was a nightmare. Got there eventually.

Here's some comparisons of the new inlet vs the old one
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It's substantially bigger. Nicely built too. Very impressed.

Finally fitted in place. I cant tell you how annoying those three bolts were!!! Lost one somewhere in the engine bay too. At one point I was certain I was going to have to drop the oil and remove the oil filter to get enough room to swing a spanner. In the end, I found a bolt with a smaller head and was able to get it on at about 1/16th of a turn at a time.
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I am HOPEFUL that the rest of the install process is going to be easier... Will get onto it tomorrow!
 

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Discussion Starter #134
Speaking of suspension... It's the next thing on the cards. Can't bloody wait to get rid of these clapped out shocks and saggy springs.

I'm thinking of going for the superior remote res kit

It's a bit of cash, but I like the superior company and I like the idea of local support.
Their remote res gear has generally very positive reviews

There's cheaper options, and more expensive options when looking for a high quality 2" lift.
Cheaper puts me into twin-tube territory. The only interesting shocks there being Koni.
More expensive puts me into bonkers Kings territory. I cant afford $5k no way lol.

I was considering fox shocks, but there's a 10 week wait on getting them into Australia, and the prices have jumped up dramatically with the exchange rate.

So looks like superior it will be...
 

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Discussion Starter #135
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This is why I don't like the stock air filter. Regardless of the box (in this case patroldocta), it concentrates everything on one spot. This is after 5000ks of predominantly road driving. Would hate to see what 10k on dusty roads would do. Right @Bidja ?

Anyway fitted up the intake pipe and airbox today
Here's the fan shroud before I cut it up
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After, with airbox in place. I did end up straightening up this cut
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Now, the other day I had read the gregorys manual with indicated the fan shroud extension needed to come out to do the serpentine belt. I stupidly squeezed it out without removing the forefront intake pipe first, and of course snapped it very convincingly
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There's several reasons why this was extremely annoying and I am stupid.
  1. It doesn't need to come out to do the belt anyway
  2. It would have come out easily if I removed the intake pipe first
  3. I should have removed the intake pipe anyway, because I was about to replace it
  4. No wreckers had a replacement
  5. New ones cost $240
So epoxy and cable tie surgery it is. I think it looks pretty good with it's battlescar. A good reminder to take the time to remove adjacent parts first and not be an impatient jackass.
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Who cares about resale value anyway right?
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My engine bay before i lost the daylight completely. Fan can still turn luckily. The 4"-3" bend from airbox to intake pipe does rest against the fan shroud, but not heavily. I think it should be ok, silicone against smooth plastic? Will keep my eye on it.

Forgot to get an air filter so haven't run it yet. Let's see how it goes tomorrow
 

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Looks good. Will be interesting that see how it drives when you get a filter in it.

Just on the belt. It is a lot easier to remove and replace it from the bottom. There is a small piece of shroud that comes out very easily. 19mm socket and breaker bar to release the tensioner and remove the belt from the aircon or harmonic balancer pulley. Then pull it all out from above (plenty of room to get it out past the fan with shroud in place) then hang the new one over the power steer, alternator and water pump pulleys from above and remove the tension and refit the belt from underneath. Once I had a good look at it, it's the easiest belt I've replaced. Even easier than an au falcon with the same sort of tensioner setup...
 

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Getting it stitched up there now mate;). Be a big improvement on what you had.
 

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Discussion Starter #140
AWESOME! now come do mine....:ROFLMAO:
No thanks!! Took me way too long.

have you got an aux battery under bonnet? I reckon if I were doing it again I’d go battery in the rear and run a panel filter box

otherwise I’d maybe suggest splurging a little more than I did and getting the full fatz kit. I used their pipe with a Ben Lipscombe box. In the pic below you can see how the fatz box fills the space more, giving more air around the filter. Also their template for the intake hole is a piece of steel you bolt in place with existing bolts, which would align the perfect hole. There’s a good video of it on YouTube

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