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The other weekend i tried a few different turbo configurations only to go backwards.

Still all based on the UFI TD05M tubine wheel.

Yesterday, I was machining up a couple of different turbine housings to try some different turbine wheels, when it occurred to me that I hadn't tried our 23L compressor wheel yet.

The TD05M 23L is what we supply to guys wanting 300hp and above.

I had been using the older 23C compressor wheel.

Compressor wheels are the same size, so they interchange easily enough. The 23L is just the latest version with a different configuration to the compressor wheel.

I really wasn't expecting to much change, so just strapped it on the dyno, didn't hook up the boost or AFR cause, well, it was hot, been a long day and I was in a hurry to go jump in the pool.



To my surprise, it made 1115nm and 276rwkw, woo hoo.

Just some points of interest on the dyno sheet that are hard to pick up by looking at it.



175rwkw @ 1874rpm

200rwkw @ 1955rpm

223.8rwkw @ 2038rpm (300hp)

250rwkw @ 2160rpm

275rwkw @ 2476rpm.

1000nm from 1972rpm to 2615rpm.

still has 265rwk @ 3200rpm, this is where some fuel cut starts to take place in the pump.

Peak boost by my gauge was 43psi

Pre turbo pyro hit a max of 804degC roughly. ( its a bit hard to keep a eye on all the things going on)



Economy wise, it used 87lt to do 643km running to and from work and a few errands through the day, no dyno time in that.



To be honest, I don't think I can squeeze much more out of it.

I will try and find my spare high ratio rockers again today that are somewhere, and if I find them, I will replace the broken one, and have another crack and see what it does.



I am pretty happy with where it is at at the minute, and a normal person would just leave it be and enjoy it.

But, lol, i just cant leave things alone.



Better economy than my ht18 and std pump too
 

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Discussion Starter #823
Errr, LOL, 300kw I dont think is a realistic thing to think about.
If I could get it to 280rwkw I would be stoked.
If I can get the turbo working a little better, I think 280 is possible.
Last time I said something like that it took me 3-4yrs to find a extra 5 or so kw.
 

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nissan patrol
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Could you give us a run down on the spec of the engine, current capacity, head mods, fuel system, etc.
 

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Could you give us a run down on the spec of the engine, current capacity, head mods, fuel system, etc.
Plenty of info in this thread. Have a look at post #804.
I'm guessing much of the info may be commercial in confidence stuff?
If you are in the business of selling power ups, to me it wouldn't make sense to reveal all the info to others on how to do so.
 

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Plenty of info in this thread. Have a look at post #804.
I'm guessing much of the info may be commercial in confidence stuff?
If you are in the business of selling power ups, to me it wouldn't make sense to reveal all the info to others on how to do so.


Yeah I understand that he won't want to divulge all the details but a broad overview of what's been done. Anyway I think that most modifacation are well past the a ability of the D.I.Y enthusiast.
 

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will be a billet crank. head will be chambered and extensive porting at a guess.
precomps wont be standard shape any more. he may or may not have played around with the piston crowns a bit. not sure.

its far from a standard motor thats for sure.

Would you say marty that with the billet crank more than 200rwkw can be had reliably? up to around 220-230kw? with torque numbers above 800nm.
the crank has always been the weak link it seems.
 

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Be interesting how much block flex there is, that crank girdle and stud kit looks the goods.
If there is block and cap flex a a billet crank could only do so much.

Weight of truck and gearing would no doubt also play a part.
I’m over half a tonne heavier than ya average rig, 1.5t heavier than Pete’s Ute. Lol
 

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will be a billet crank. head will be chambered and extensive porting at a guess.
precomps wont be standard shape any more. he may or may not have played around with the piston crowns a bit. not sure.

its far from a standard motor thats for sure.

Would you say marty that with the billet crank more than 200rwkw can be had reliably? up to around 220-230kw? with torque numbers above 800nm.
the crank has always been the weak link it seems.


Be interested how far removed from a standard td42 it is.
 

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will be a billet crank. head will be chambered and extensive porting at a guess.
precomps wont be standard shape any more. he may or may not have played around with the piston crowns a bit. not sure.

its far from a standard motor thats for sure.

Would you say marty that with the billet crank more than 200rwkw can be had reliably? up to around 220-230kw? with torque numbers above 800nm.
the crank has always been the weak link it seems.

At a guess, I would say increased capacity with billet stroker,
crank girdle, aftermarket rod, forged piston, ported head, custom cam, altered comp ratio,, water meth, custom pump and injectors. Then there would be the inlet and exhaust manifolds with a ufi hairdryer. At a guess
 

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SUI GENERIS UTE
GQ Ute 1990 Silvertop
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I believe the bits are all purchasable. Billet and stroked crank and rods to suit 4.5lt, obviously main caps and girdle including studs, a special internal paint job for oil properties, drilled and sized matched water transfer holes head / block / cooler and a few more experimental drilling only Marty could do, A piston skim to suit compression requirements, One of his experiential cams spoken about previously, roller rockers std ratio with some intuitive tricky adaption, valve work to induce flow, some port/bowel work to suit different inserts, precomb work to help fuelling and swirl, chambering to promote flame front and compression requirements, obviously head studs to hold the head on properly, and probably a special head gasket/Oring system to promote compression/sealing, a special experimental fluid damper to hold out those pesky frequencies.

Topping off on a clutch/flywheel of sorts and activation system only the true enthusiast would thing up and actually invent to suit.

I am sure i have missed some of the obscure tricky inventive things, inspired from a passion for the TD diesel only a true engineering ******* could dream of, without even considering turbo mods and inventive thought.

So no not really a TD in the true sense but removed enough to address the TD short comings.
 

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Discussion Starter #832
LOL, close Peter.
I still actually have the standard rockers on it at the minute, standard valve sizes, different arrangement of seat angles that are popular to most.
My new head with the full roller rockers, slightly larger valves and a few other bits is still sitting in the workshop.
And don't forget my interpretation of your intake manifold that we discussed.

Parts that UFI dont sell.

Intake manifold.
Head.
Fluid damper.
Camshaft (at this stage, it shows potential, so will possibly become available)
Clutch.
Throw out bearing.
Turbo configuration (possibly in the future, it is something I have been testing for the last few years, needs a few tweaks, have a engineer working on that for me)
Pump (well it is loosely based on what UFI usually sell, but I prefer my own stuff setup differently to most. Unfortunately the general public can not handle a engine sounding a little different to to factory setup, where as I just don't care, as long as it works).

Parts UFI do sell.

Billet 102mm stroke crank (or 96mm if you dont want to build a stroker and are just swapping a crank out)
Billet rods.
Mahle pistons.
NPR rings.
ACL Race bearings.
Head Studs.
Turbo (we use the same basic turbo for guys that want 300hp and above)
Radius Merge high mount manifold (We had Richie build these in consultation with us, mine is ported, and made basically the same power as my ported factory manifold)
12mm Pump (Production pumps basically use the same components, just a different test plan, the component difference is pretty much just my tinkering around to get the fueling/timing curve the way I want. For example, my pump has as much fuel in the BC as a lot of other pumps have total. Many many hours spent fiddling around to do that).

Things we do in house when we build the odd engine.

Billet main caps, studs and girdle (fiddly job, and at the minute, while the girdle plate is laser cut to the basic shape, all the drilling and machining I do by hand, and to get it to fit nicely requires the block)
UFI Liners (they are expensive, most people will not go with this option they are about 6x the price of what is available locally, and we have a different way of machining the block when fitting them.
I also would like to see all blocks fitted with them done with a torque plate, I had several torque plates made to suit different stages of machining. So it is not just the final cylinder hone that is done with a torque plate as is common practice.

And time, well, many many many hours spent fiddling.
 

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I’m guessing, NO! It would be a bit hard to make those numbers and keep it cool without it!!!
 

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Discussion Starter #835
Always runs w/m was never going to run without it at full noise.
Never going to do a full on run without it either.
I did mention that back a few posts.
In normal driving it uses bugger all, hmmm, was like 5-6lt for a tank around town.
Highway would be less, as it would never activate in normal cruising.
 

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Matt was telling me you had run the big cam with some success and I wasnt disappointed I didnt read it here first ;)

any updates? :D
 

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Discussion Starter #837
I haven't had the big cam in this engine.
I used it in the old engine before it dropped a liner, it worked very well, pretty sure I posted it here.
Hmmmm was 250rwkw on 35psi, still holding 225rwkw at 4000rpm from memory, I think it was that setup.
My engine now has some higher ratio rockers on it, haven't ran it on the dyno with them, have some clutch issues to deal with first.
I will run it up at some stage, I will also try the big cam in this engine.
I also have a few turbine configurations to try in it at some stage too when time permits.
 

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Pump (well it is loosely based on what UFI usually sell, but I prefer my own stuff setup differently to most. Unfortunately the general public can not handle a engine sounding a little different to to factory setup, where as I just don't care, as long as it works).
What is meant by this, what do you do differently? :)
 

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Discussion Starter #839
Most people complain if the have a little more noise than what a factory pump makes, they want all the power in the world, but a 30+ year old IDI engine making 3 x its factory intended power has to be silent for some reason??
So i do not care about this, and set my pump up to hold timing at certain points vs drop it to make things quieter.
Plus I have many many niggered bits in pump to allow things to do there job at high fuel loads.
So essentially I have a pump with very high fuel capabilities and still excellent control of timing across the entire rpm range.
 

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Very interesting mines a little rattley is annoying probably for the traffic and neighbors lol
So bit of extra case pressure slug but then cut fuel slowly somehow in governer at certain rpm to regain timing control or am I totally off

Sent from my A1601 using Tapatalk
 
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