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Fine workmanship. That back left corner was done like that for a future project. 馃槈
Yeah, wait, what? 馃ぃ 馃ぃ

Foo
 

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Discussion Starter · #43 · (Edited)
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Very happy with the ARB base rack!

was significantly cheaper than the rhino system, and is PROPERLY bolted through the roof. The rhino is pop riveted in place hence has a terrible dynamic off-road load rating.

it also sits much lower than the rhino or other systems I鈥檝e seen. Infact it鈥檚 so low that the rigid base of the rooftop antenna protrudes above the top surface by about 8mm. May be an issue with mounting fixed solar but time will tell.

It鈥檚 quieter than the rhino or frontrunner racks that I had on the patrol too
 

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Discussion Starter · #46 ·
$$$ ??? Did they install it?


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Yep it was $1450 installed at my local ARB. Now bit of a back story to that price though.....

I initially paid something like $1720. Then I saw on a facebook group people saying they had theirs installed for $1450. I got quotes from 2 other ARBs not too far away which were $1450 also. I spoke to ARB head office and they told me there's actually a RRP pricelist on the website which includes parts + labour, that does have some minor changes based on postcode. I checked the price list and again it was $1450.

So then head office said that the ARB I went to was technically an ARB re-seller, not an official ARB store. Apparently the resellers can charge different prices.
Well I kicked up a stink about that because there is no way to tell it's an ARB re-seller, especially considering the bloody 40 ft sign out the front that say "ARB". And that they are listed as "ARB xyz-suburb", and the fact that they don't sell anything other than ARB gear!!! It is no different to any other ARB mega-store I've ever stepped into. Ridiculous.

I gave the store a fair go, spoke to them and said that they must have "accidentally" charged me more than the other two nearby ARB stores. They apologised and refunded me the difference...
At $1450 I'm happy with the price, especially considering the roof lining needs to be dropped so they can properly bolt the backbone rails on. As I said, rhino is just pop-riveted from the outside only.

Moral of the story is double check the price list on the ARB website first. Other than that, I was happy with the service and very happy with the product
 

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Yep it was $1450 installed at my local ARB. Now bit of a back story to that price though.....

I initially paid something like $1720. Then I saw on a facebook group people saying they had theirs installed for $1450. I got quotes from 2 other ARBs not too far away which were $1450 also. I spoke to ARB head office and they told me there's actually a RRP pricelist on the website which includes parts + labour, that does have some minor changes based on postcode. I checked the price list and again it was $1450.

So then head office said that the ARB I went to was technically an ARB re-seller, not an official ARB store. Apparently the resellers can charge different prices.
Well I kicked up a stink about that because there is no way to tell it's an ARB re-seller, especially considering the bloody 40 ft sign out the front that say "ARB". And that they are listed as "ARB xyz-suburb", and the fact that they don't sell anything other than ARB gear!!! It is no different to any other ARB mega-store I've ever stepped into. Ridiculous.

I gave the store a fair go, spoke to them and said that they must have "accidentally" charged me more than the other two nearby ARB stores. They apologised and refunded me the difference...
At $1450 I'm happy with the price, especially considering the roof lining needs to be dropped so they can properly bolt the backbone rails on. As I said, rhino is just pop-riveted from the outside only.

Moral of the story is double check the price list on the ARB website first. Other than that, I was happy with the service and very happy with the product
That would put me off dealing with them again 馃檮
 

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Yep it was $1450 installed at my local ARB. Now bit of a back story to that price though.....

I initially paid something like $1720. Then I saw on a facebook group people saying they had theirs installed for $1450. I got quotes from 2 other ARBs not too far away which were $1450 also. I spoke to ARB head office and they told me there's actually a RRP pricelist on the website which includes parts + labour, that does have some minor changes based on postcode. I checked the price list and again it was $1450.

So then head office said that the ARB I went to was technically an ARB re-seller, not an official ARB store. Apparently the resellers can charge different prices.
Well I kicked up a stink about that because there is no way to tell it's an ARB re-seller, especially considering the bloody 40 ft sign out the front that say "ARB". And that they are listed as "ARB xyz-suburb", and the fact that they don't sell anything other than ARB gear!!! It is no different to any other ARB mega-store I've ever stepped into. Ridiculous.

I gave the store a fair go, spoke to them and said that they must have "accidentally" charged me more than the other two nearby ARB stores. They apologised and refunded me the difference...
At $1450 I'm happy with the price, especially considering the roof lining needs to be dropped so they can properly bolt the backbone rails on. As I said, rhino is just pop-riveted from the outside only.

Moral of the story is double check the price list on the ARB website first. Other than that, I was happy with the service and very happy with the product
good tihng you had a go at them, my full length platform was around $1700 fitted.

despite having to buy into the dovetail ecosystem, the rack is fantastic.

FYI, KAON sell some Base Rack accessories, and Stedi have a Base Rack LED bar mount now.
 

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Discussion Starter · #49 ·
good tihng you had a go at them, my full length platform was around $1700 fitted.

despite having to buy into the dovetail ecosystem, the rack is fantastic.

FYI, KAON sell some Base Rack accessories, and Stedi have a Base Rack LED bar mount now.
Im not too worried about the dovetail system as I only plan to hold a couple things up there. I prefer to have a mostly empty roof rack day to day and on trips. It just comes in so handy at unexpected times. A few dovetail tie-down points will do me for now.

I'm eyeing the Kaon stealth flat fold maxtrax mounts. Problem is, I have Treds, and cant find any tred mount that works with the base rack if you want them going front-to-back which is my preference over side-to-side.
So that's getting close to $500 for a set of maxtrax and the mounting bits from kaon... The spending never ends hah
 

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Discussion Starter · #50 ·
Got the dual battery setup done for now.
The Hardkorr battery box JUST fit after I flipped around two of the bolts on the fridge slide. Almost held down in place by friction alone.

Also I'm convinced there's no way to make the wiring of this Ctek charger look good. Oh well

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Having the plywood floor means it was easy to screw down a couple of stainless tie downs for the battery box

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Also got some 4mm 7-core trailer wire. The factory wiring grommet had a little twist off aux wiring tab which fit the trailer wire and conduit perfectly. It's too hard to get some tape around it but it looks water tight to me
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The blue wire is used for the trigger wire for the dcdc. I do have bigger plans for sorting out the start battery, but for now this is neat enough. Midi fuse holder is for the dcdc

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Next job was finally putting on the bash plates that have been in the garage for a while.
Comparo with the factory tin ones

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One of the reasons I went with the Piak bullbar was that it came with a 3mm front bashplate.
These custom off-road ones all bolted up well to the car and the front plate.
Doozy of a job doing solo. Holding the long plate up with one knee and my foot while trying to line the bolts up. Got it done. Very happy with it

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Discussion Starter · #51 ·
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two weeks in the Vic High Country. Amazing trip. Hit the jackpot in terms of timing with the snow. Had no idea it would fall so early this year.

They have started closing tracks earlier due to heavier snow. Some of the tracks I was driving in the snow closed just two days later. Funnily enough, if I had started my trip two days earlier I would鈥檝e missed the snow completely.

the Ranger was faultless. Really impressed with its performance both on road and off, especially considering all stock suspension.
 

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Discussion Starter · #52 · (Edited)
Haven't updated in some time but I have been working on the tub layout. I've ripped out the false floor and gone for a something different. I'm hoping it works out as cool as my patrol set up.
The brief I've given myself was a highly functional camping setup, that is lightweight and can be easily swapped back and forth to a completely bare tub with minimal fuss.
OH and it has to be relatively cheap! Anyone can throw $30k at a fancy tray with a lift off canopy, but wheres the satisfaction in that?
 

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Discussion Starter · #53 ·
I have been following a facebook group dedicated to FORSCAN. From what I understand, FORSCAN is Ford's proprietary OBD2 software thing.
In any case, I had a chance to get my rangers software updated by the guru from that group.
Basically as I had gone to larger tyres, my cars speedo/odometer was out of whack. Most importantly this affected the shift points. I had read people describing this issue and it sounded like what I was ailed with. High revving, late shifting. Odometer being incorrect (showing less kms than i've actually travelled), speedo being incorrect (showing faster than I'm actually travelling as per GPS), and fuel gauge being incorrect (showing more consumption than I'm actually using).

As it turns out, because I have the basic model XLS which comes with even smaller tyres than the XLT/Wildtrak, my numbers were even further out than most people would usually experience. In fact going from 255/70r16 to 285/75r16 is about a 9% jump. Very significant.
Although I've owned the car a year now, I've actually had it serviced at 7500kms intervals which is recommended for heavy duty applications such as constant towing. Not that Ive ever had it at max GVM or even attached anything to the trow bar, I just felt 15000kms is a long interval. So I'm not too worried that I've done any harm by having the larger tyres

The updated software has really transformed the drive. It's shifting correctly, not sitting as high on the revs. Feels livelier especially when I flick it to sport mode, which I never liked before.
Displayed fuel consumption has dropped from ~11.5 to ~10.5 lph. That's with the smart alternator disabled too which apparently will cause an increase of approx 0.1lph to fuel consumption. A compromise I'm happy to make for having well charged batteries and not needing to worry about tapping into an ignition trigger wire for the DCDC charger.

Also, the speedo is now correct showing 100kmh when I'm actually travelling 96kmh confirmed by GPS. I've learned that this is the desirable outcome. Not sure about Patrols, but at least on the ranger it's SUPPOSED to show a bit under. If it were showing exactly 100 when I'm travelling 100, then the odometer/fuel/shift points etc would all be slightly out.
I've confirmed my odometer with the highway markers and it's 100% accurate.

I know I said it about the iDrive, but now I've done that I'm completely satisfied with the engine and won't be doing any further mods.

Will have an update soon about the tub setup! I promise it will be a good one
 

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I have been following a facebook group dedicated to FORSCAN. From what I understand, FORSCAN is Ford's proprietary OBD2 software thing.
In any case, I had a chance to get my rangers software updated by the guru from that group.
Basically as I had gone to larger tyres, my cars speedo/odometer was out of whack. Most importantly this affected the shift points. I had read people describing this issue and it sounded like what I was ailed with. High revving, late shifting. Odometer being incorrect (showing less kms than i've actually travelled), speedo being incorrect (showing faster than I'm actually travelling as per GPS), and fuel gauge being incorrect (showing more consumption than I'm actually using).

As it turns out, because I have the basic model XLS which comes with even smaller tyres than the XLT/Wildtrak, my numbers were even further out than most people would usually experience. In fact going from 255/70r16 to 285/75r16 is about a 9% jump. Very significant.
Although I've owned the car a year now, I've actually had it serviced at 7500kms intervals which is recommended for heavy duty applications such as constant towing. Not that Ive ever had it at max GVM or even attached anything to the trow bar, I just felt 15000kms is a long interval. So I'm not too worried that I've done any harm by having the larger tyres

The updated software has really transformed the drive. It's shifting correctly, not sitting as high on the revs. Feels livelier especially when I flick it to sport mode, which I never liked before.
Displayed fuel consumption has dropped from ~11.5 to ~10.5 lph. That's with the smart alternator disabled too which apparently will cause an increase of approx 0.1lph to fuel consumption. A compromise I'm happy to make for having well charged batteries and not needing to worry about tapping into an ignition trigger wire for the DCDC charger.

Also, the speedo is now correct showing 100kmh when I'm actually travelling 96kmh confirmed by GPS. I've learned that this is the desirable outcome. Not sure about Patrols, but at least on the ranger it's SUPPOSED to show a bit under. If it were showing exactly 100 when I'm travelling 100, then the odometer/fuel/shift points etc would all be slightly out.
I've confirmed my odometer with the highway markers and it's 100% accurate.

I know I said it about the iDrive, but now I've done that I'm completely satisfied with the engine and won't be doing any further mods.

Will have an update soon about the tub setup! I promise it will be a good one
Sounds like you鈥檙e on to a good thing and the Ford is now running as intended, but I woudn鈥檛 stare myself blind against the numbers if I were in your shoes.

I can easily get 5-10% variance in fuel consumption between fill ups based on traffic, weather, driving style, load etc. I wouldn鈥檛 read too much into FC dropping by 1.0 l/100km and the 0.1 l/100km difference the smart alternator makes is theoretical at best鈥

Same with the odometer. Remember your tyres get smaller as they wear. When I was a student I studied in Pretoria which is ~480km from where I grew up in Bloemfontein. I remember one weekend going home to visit my parents and to get some new tyres fitted (which my dad paid for :sneaky:) on my MkI Golf. Same 185/60R14 tyre size, but went from worn to the legal limit to brand new and all of a sudden, between Friday afternoon and Sunday evening, Bloem moved 30km closer to Pretoria. :unsure:

For speedo, from memory the ADR requires an accuracy of -0% to +10% reading of true speed. Most standard Nissans I鈥檝e driven were in the 8% to 10% range.
 

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Discussion Starter · #55 ·
Sounds like you鈥檙e on to a good thing and the Ford is now running as intended, but I woudn鈥檛 stare myself blind against the numbers if I were in your shoes.

I can easily get 5-10% variance in fuel consumption between fill ups based on traffic, weather, driving style, load etc. I wouldn鈥檛 read too much into FC dropping by 1.0 l/100km and the 0.1 l/100km difference the smart alternator makes is theoretical at best鈥

Same with the odometer. Remember your tyres get smaller as they wear. When I was a student I studied in Pretoria which is ~480km from where I grew up in Bloemfontein. I remember one weekend going home to visit my parents and to get some new tyres fitted (which my dad paid for :sneaky:) on my MkI Golf. Same 185/60R14 tyre size, but went from worn to the legal limit to brand new and all of a sudden, between Friday afternoon and Sunday evening, Bloem moved 30km closer to Pretoria. :unsure:

For speedo, from memory the ADR requires an accuracy of -0% to +10% reading of true speed. Most standard Nissans I鈥檝e driven were in the 8% to 10% range.
Yes you make a good point. A brand new 285/75r16 from one company might be slightly different sized compared to a brand new 285/75r16 another manufacturer too. HT vs AT vs MT probably cause further discrepancies.

The smart alternator thing I was more pointing out that I was able to have it disabled so easily which IMO brings more upsides than any theoretical minor fuel usage increases.

TBH the only number I was really happy to see was the odometer vs the 5km highway markers, which I presume are quite accurate. For example, your ~30km discrepancy from ~480km is ~6%, which would probably be hard to perceive when using only 5km worth of highway markers. Before making this change, mine was noticeably out even by the 3km mark.
Now it's imperceptible across the 5km. That means I'm now able to accurately monitor my fuel consumption as per fillups vs odometer. ~750km highway range is pretty great considering these modern utes only ever have a stock 80L tank.

The biggest takeaway I wanted to make was regarding the speedo. I've seen countless people on facebook groups recommending others to go to a larger tyre size to "fix" the speedo. They'll always say that their speedo is 100% accurate since switching sizes. True that may be, but the odometer is the one that actually matters. In fact there's plenty of people out there going to 35" tyres (a 16% increase in size achieved quite easily on rangers) without having the computer adjusted. That is definitely problematic for a variety of reasons.
 

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Discussion Starter · #56 · (Edited)
Alright here's phase 1 of my new tub setup. There's a couple other things to come but I thought I'd show off what's been done so far.

First of all, I got a very cool looking canvas canopy fitted by Wallaby Track canvas. It's great quality, very light and costs about half a fibreglass canopy while including ladder racks rated for 110kg dynamic / 280kg static. One of the reasons I wanted a canopy was because I got a big ass canoe which has been fun, but was a nightmare to get on and off the cabin roof. These ladder racks are great for it and sit just a touch higher than the ARB base rack which is fine.
I also wanted more storage than a tub/tonneau provides.
There are 4 large brackets which are bolted into the inside of the tub rails to hold it in. The canvas is all held in place 360 degrees with industrial velcro. There's no drilling or anything to the outside of the tub, which was also important to me. I also love the huge roll up flaps giving easy access all around.

Personally I have always loved the look of canvas canopies on ute tubs. It's proven to be completely waterproof so far this La Ni帽a too!

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Next is the main event. Keep in mind, my goal was to make a very practical, fairly affordable and easily removable setup. Also, this would probably work with any tub canopy, not just my canvas one.

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Alright so here's what makes this so cool. Firstly, the canopy requires a swing out bar that sits just above the tailgate. You can see it in a couple of the photos above. So having the classic setup of side-by-side drawers with a fridge slide on top would mean needing to undo the wingnut holding that bar in place every single time the fridge was gonna slide out. Deal breaker for me! Also I wanted to keep the fridge low as I have a philosophical aversion to drop slides.
So I measured up and discovered that two stacked XTM drawers and my fridge would JUST fit under that bar, if I made one major change... removing the false floor... More on that in a sec.

So with that bar causing me to switch to a stacked drawer setup instead of side-by-side, i thought why not have a full size platform / false-floor on top of the drawers and fridge? For some reason I very rarely see this kind of setup in ute tubs. I think it's just easier to slap down the side-by-side drawers and put a fridge on top. But that chews up SO much extra space, and it means you essentially sacrifice all of the storage area above it.

So I got to designing my platform. I used 17mm formply again because it's cheaper than marine ply and probably just as water-resistant.

Once again I copied the sidetracked guys idea of having tie-down rails sitting flush into the platform. I've never used a router before, let alone a plunge router, but after practicing on some scrap I got the hang of it.
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Now as you can see, the rails sit in there a little bit sloppy. This was intentional, just as the sidetracked bloke did. This allowed for a bit of extra room for the carpet to sit under and around the rail, making a very neat finished product. Truth be told I couldn't have done it neatly without the carpet allowing such a big margin for error lol

I decided to cut out some cubby holes for gear storage down the side of the drawers/fridge next to the wheel arches. Especially with the second drawer on top, it would have been impossible to use those areas for storage otherwise
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The whole platform is mounted by 4 heavy duty stainless L brackets from bunnings. You can see the countersunk holes for them in the pic above. Here's what the bracket looks like just bolted into the side of the tub rail. Ignore the extra holes, they were from previous prototypes that didnt work out lol. The galvanized bracket on the left is from the canopy.

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With all that figured out, I carpeted the big lump of wood and the cubby hatches with stretch automotive carpet. The stretch stuff is MUCH more forgiving than typical bunnings carpet, especially on curves and corners. I used sprayfix adhesive and a few staples.

I then used some piano hinges for the cubby hatches and a few bits of scrap ply as stoppers for them.

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Now you may be wondering about security. Well yes that's definitely a downside of a canvas canopy, but honestly I'm not too worried. All the valuable bits go under the platform, and when the tailgate is locked there's no way of getting in there. The cubby hatches are secured from underneath with simple barrel bolts, which again means even the cubbys are locked if the tailgate is locked. Also, insurance is a thing!

On top of the platform will go the swag, and this awesome 3 seater camp lounge which has replaced our individual chairs. Big enough for two adults and a spoiled dog.

TBC
 

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Discussion Starter · #57 ·
With that stuff on the platform there's still plenty of free real estate for other bulky bits like firewood. However I did get concerned that the whole platform was flexing in the middle with weight on it.
With about 33mm of clearance between the top of the drawer and the bottom of the platform, I took some scrap formply, cut two pieces and screwed them together to make a chock that just slides into place. It's just about in the middle of the whole setup and sits in there perfectly snug. So snug I actually had to add a pull handle to get it back out again
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\

Alright so what's really interesting is what you can't see...
I never liked that big false floor I made which you can see a few posts back. The problem is that you end up holding down the fridge slide and drawer with wood screws. Take stuff out, put it back in and hope you screw into a slightly different spot. Plus it's just a huge waste of weight for something that doesn't actually do anything. And finally, it was really cutting it fine with allowing the fridge/top drawer to roll out with that steel bar from the canopy sitting there.

So I ditched the false floor and decided to put down some T-track to use as tie down rails.

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As you can see, these sit in the slots between the raised ribs of the tub. It took a little while, but I was lucky to be able to find this particular T-slot track in store to measure with the calipers. It was a PERFECT fit. Sits in the valley of those ribs perfectly flush with the peaks of the ribs themselves. The bottom face of them doesn't ride the slopes of the ribs at all, so it's very stable.

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This was really important to me, because when I pull all my camping gear out I want to have a big empty ute tub that I can slide stuff in and out of. Other T-track might fit, i dunno.
The T-track allows for T-bolts to sit in upside down like this
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So how to secure it? Tek-screws into the tub? Hell no! How about riv-nuts and bolts? Nope! Bolted through the tub with big washers and nuts.... hmmm still not good enough!

How about a sort of frankenstein ladder frame of aluminium angle/flat bar underneath to brace the whole lot? Yeah that's more like it!

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I used all stainless fittings with sikaflex to seal up the holes and act as loc-tite. I used L-angle where possible and flat bar in other spots. It's VERY strong
Perhaps it's a bit overkill, but honestly the sheet metal of the tub is so thin that I didn't wanna mess around with

So then it was just a matter of a few slight modifications to the fridge slide and bottom drawer to make it all fit.
I had to cut the back feet of the bottom drawer on a slight angle as pictured by my sharpie lines here
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This was needed to get that drawer RIGHT up against the wheel arch, which allowed the fridge slide to fit Every few mm really did count.

And then the fridge slide needed a few bolts to be taken out and flipped around. Luckily this didn't foul on the the runners at all! Here you can see one flipped and one still sticking out
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The bottom drawer and the fridge slide squeezed in with no room to spare. Perfect fit!

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Discussion Starter · #58 ·
I also decided having the battery box right in the corner infront of the tailgate was wasted real estate. Once a battery is setup and running, you really don't need to be looking at it all the time right?
So I bought the hardkorr battery box tray, got some spare ally flat bar and made a little mount for that right behind (infront of?) the fridge. Fits right in gap between the fridge and the water tank, which was otherwise a fairly inaccessible spot.
Once again, it's bolted to the T-track and easily removed

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Here's the view with the fridge slid all the way out

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Now what's been a real bit of dumb luck is the XTM drawers. I originally got them because they are designed to be stackable, where as the titan drawers require some simple modification to stack them. What I didn't think much about was the XTM drawers are 1200mm long where the titan drawers are 1300mm long. That leaves a perfect 10cm gap between the back of the drawer and the water tank, which has been the perfect space to slot in my hardkorr solar panel. It fits like a glove up on it's side! This is also why I made the platform shorter than the full length of the tub. I can easily slide it out of that slot through the drivers side canopy flap

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And a final bit of dumb luck, my new camp table fits perfectly on top of the water tank. I really like this table a lot more than the classic blow-mould plastic ones I've usually used. Packs up small and light but is quite large. Sets up quickly. Doesn't stain or melt like the plastic ones either. Individually adjustable legs for uneven ground. And in this storage spot, it can be the first thing to come out and the last thing to pack away too. I've also since added a strap (not pictured, but you can see the tie down) to hold it in place. slick!

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Discussion Starter · #59 · (Edited)
Lastly the water tank! I've actually been running this for a while and it's great. You can see it in one of the pictures above with the tub empty.


The tank is an 85 litre stainless unit from huntsman. I needed one this height to fit under teh tonneau cover I had before. Before finding this, I was looking at very expensive custom made options. It's held in place with a simple cam buckle strap to the factory tie down points in the corners.
Some other options that would fit now I have more height is this tuff terrain one or this Dunn and watson one. Although I think I'm glad to have stainless!

It has a drain bung in the bottom left that you can just see in the above pic. All the other barbs are in the right hand corner, which now look like this
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So the top 13mm barb goes to a T-piece. The bottom of that T-piece has clear hose which goes to the bottom 13mm barb. This acts as a simple water level gauge and works great.
In the middle is a large 25mm barb. I have no idea what that's for. I went to clark rubber and found that rubber cap which is actually and end cap for a crutch. Yep like the crutches you have when you break your leg. It's a perfect fit and hasn't leaked.
 

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Discussion Starter · #60 · (Edited)
For some reason I had to split this last post up. I think all my pictures and waffling is breaking the internet.

Anyway...The top right of that T-piece on the water tank goes to a breather. It's cable tied high up so the tank can be 100% full, still breathe and allow good flow, but not spill at all. The tank breather I got from a boating store. Mesh so bugs cant crawl in!
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And finally the bottom corner 13mm barb on the tank goes to this simple gravity fed water hose. It has a quick release fitting which means I can snap on a regular garden hose outlet to refill the tank. Just gotta watch the gauge while it fills! I actually carry 5m of the same white drinking-grade hose, a caravan charcoal filter and some tap fittings. This lets me fill up my water tank from any regular tap like at servos or parks. I even have one of these "vandal keys" to use public taps that have had the handle removed :cool:


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Gravity fed is fine for me. I did contemplate a 12v pump for pressurised water but now I dont need it. We actually got this great cheap lithium shower which has been a bit of a game changer coupled with a shower awning and a cheap 10L popup bucket. I just fill the bucket up with half river water and half hot water from the camp oven/billy. It's piping hot with good pressure. Gotta be strategic but you can get two showers out of it. Rinse, turn off the water, lather up, then rinse it off. It's made a real difference to my Mrs enjoying camping and I'm a big fan too.


Anyway I think that's enough for now!
A few more things are in the works. I'm contemplating a unique tailgate table and would absolutely love a 270 awning to finish it all off.
I also need to sort out a (very simple) 12v panel and some LED lighting. Got a 3 week trip in Feb and some weekenders before then to work it all out
 
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