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Haha that is one thing I certainly don't miss about my homeland. Constantly having to get a WOF is a drag. Just feels like such a rort. Especially when you have to deal with a testing station
Have to admit it's kinda funny seeing the reality of WOF-less life in QLD. It's not exactly the jalopy chaos that NZ is lead to believe would take hold. There are surprisingly few chitboxes getting around.
Seen more **** boxes in NSW than any other state. And they have to have an annual inspection.


Back on topic.
Did the Toyota dyna ever come out as a 4wd?


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Discussion Starter #122
Did the Toyota dyna ever come out as a 4wd?
In NZ you can get a Dyna single and double cab 4wd version, they have independent fronts.
This was the logical thing to buy but the wheelbase isn't that long, and only the single cabs have a deck worth mentioning. And of course I am way to tall to realistically fit in a single cab.

Toyota did do a version with what I believe is the running gear from the 4x4 civilian bus, but these are very rare;


 

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Discussion Starter #123 (Edited)
Righto. On Thursday I took the beasty down to my friendly wof man for a cert pre check. Apart from the obvious issue that there had been some minor mods going on the the chassis/cab/drivetrain etc, there were some actual wof issues;

The towbar mount was not pulling up hard against the chassis. I must have always been like this but not obvious as it was covered by a bumper.

Some rust in the passenger front door.

The wiper mechanism is toast.

The tyres are too sticky outy.

My handbrake adaptor/pivot was made from aluminium, not steel.

He also questioned the pointyness of the cab steps and the bumper.

All good points, so I early Saturday morning I cracked on. First I fixed the towbar issue with some additional welded on spacers that I forgot to take a pic of. Sweet.

Then I sorted the handbrake thing, again I forgot pics but it's not super interesting, so whatevs bitch.

Then I looked at the door. This had a bubble which I had rust killed and ignored a while back, but I guessed I would be dealing with it at some point. As usual it was uglier than expected with bonus bog;

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A bit of sanding and it was as good as my care level for paint and panel work thought it should be, ie completely unacceptable to most people. A couple of coats of etch primer and it's sweet. I did go to repco this morning with a paint code for 048 Poverty Spec Toyota White, they were ****ing useless. I then went to supercheap just in case, but after waiting for 10 mins at the service desk I got the hump and went home.

Next I eviscerated the dash to get at the wiper mech. I had sort of fixed this up from the outside a while ago, but I kind of knew I would have to sort this eventually. It looks like the hiace mechs are the same, or at least close enough to mod to suit if I cant find a proper Dyna one.

jquBRFJ.jpg


Might do some tidying in there while I'm at it.

I am glad I did this though, because I noticed this issue. If you look closely the tube feeding brake fluid to the clutch has what looks like condensation. This is brake fluid eating it's way out of the pipe.

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This is disappointing as I bought that from BNT specifically for this application.

I guess I need to find something different and then flush that fluid out.

Next I thought I would sort the tyre issues. I got this far and realised I had no more suitable sheet steel or 10mm round to make some for the rear.

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It's a good start though, so I will pick away at this over the next few evenings.

I might paint those rims silver, it is looking a bit too aggressive for my liking, that might soften it a bit. We will see.
 

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Discussion Starter #124
Finished up those flares tonight, the back ones are surprisingly hard to get a pic of in the shed light. I am pretty pleased with them, there were a lot of constraints to work within, but they came up good.

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I have also sorted the wiper mech, reassembled the dash and fixed the clutch hose.

Tomorrow I'll get some more stuff to remake the mud flaps and have yet another go at stopping the power steering pump from leaking. Again. It's really minimal but the wof guy mentioned that it should be sorted.
 

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Discussion Starter #125
Righto. Turns out that the leak around the power steering pump was just leftover juice from the 14,387 times I evacuated it to fix leaks. A bit of a wipedown and it appears solid.

I went through a few things with cert man, one of which was a discussion about seatbelts. As it is a scratch built it needed reels all round and the rears were fixed belts. This seemed straightforward at the time so I dropped some coin and bought 4x as the fronts were a little manky anyway and I figured presentation and a clear commitment to doing it right is going to be of value in the very near future.

The fronts went on with some minor shenanigans around the stalk mounts, but no drama. The rears turned out a bit problematic. Because they were fixed belts there were only three mount points and no great place to mount the reel. So after a bit of mocking up and getting the concept approved by the advisory peeps I cracked on.

1. The beginning with all the seam sealer scraped out. Both the horizontal and side wall skins are doubled up with no way to get in there short of cutting holes, so a doubling plate would have been difficult.

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2. A bit of angly stuff that could be welded in place and hold a captive nut

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3. An extra bit of stuff that ties it in to the existing mount for extra lovings

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4. Sorting some ugly on the other side before making a mirrored replica of the previous mount.

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5. Plug welding the back skin to replace the factory spot welds

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6. Weld all around, paint with poverty spec Toyota white from a rattle can and assemble.

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Looks good.

Just some minor painting and reassembly of the airbox and it is time to ship it off....
 

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Discussion Starter #126
So, long time no update. I have been holding off as it was so nearly there for weeks but kept on dragging on...

Early September it got shipped off to Wellington;

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Then early October it arrived back home with a very excited son of a truckie..

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Then I got the list from the cert man and was pleased/kind of surprised how short it was;

- Needs rear headrests

- Extra size on the driveshaft hoop mounts

- Front seatbelts needed to web clamp type not inertia

- Change a vac hose for proper auto stuff

- Wheel alignment

That was it and apart from sourcing the seatbelts it was all done in that weekend with the help of some butty ramps I had made for this sort of thing;

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So if anyone needs a brand new set of vertical fit reels, hit me up.

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Then I waited for the cert man to approve all that and get the plate done - this was another couple of weeks...

Then the compliance man was on holiday and couldn't do anything for another couple of weeks...

Then I realised much to my disappointment that the head was probably cracked as it was using water and pressurising the system
:-(


That will teach me to not get things checked by professionals and just trusting to the prime cause.

So while I was waiting for the compliance man I dragged out the spare head out of the container and sent it to Mean Machine for crack testing. This came up sweet but the valves were dodgy and the surface was a bit banana. So I got it surfaced and the valves and seats recut, plus I got a spare set of injectors rebuilt as i didn't want to **** up the newly sorted head.

Getting it in and out was not too much of a drama with a bit of channel clamped to the forklift forks. I didn't really take any pics of all this as I was on a bit of a mission, just this one of the freshened head put back in place;

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New gaskets, head bolts, slightly thicker oil plus filters plus coolant and much money out of my account and the jobs a goodun.

Then fast forward to today and we have this very very exciting situation early this morning...

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Resulting in this even more exciting situation this afternoon;

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Ah **** yes.

Anyway there is still a bit to do, I am not happy with the radiator situation as it is pretty much relying on the fan even at road speed. I can fit a standard Safari rad in the same hole but with much bigger collection area, plus I have some cunning plans to duct more air toward it so at least on the open road it isnt cycling the fan.

Still I'm pretty happy, it has been a long but satisfying road. Beer will be drunk tonight I imagine....
 

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Nice work mate.
On top of the epic build you have done a great job documenting the process.
Must be an awesome feeling which will live on every time you jump behind the wheel.
 

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Discussion Starter #128 (Edited)
Nice work mate.
On top of the epic build you have done a great job documenting the process.
Must be an awesome feeling which will live on every time you jump behind the wheel.
Yea it feels good. I went to the servo to fill it up earlier and someone fist pumped me when he saw it, that cracked me up...
 

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what an incredible read
fantastic job done, you are owed more than a beer or two for that job
 

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Plenty of room on the back to carry a few slabs back home. Might need to get a hoist on it. 🤣
 
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After Monday and Tuesday, even the calender says W
06 Td42ti coil cab chassis
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Pretty well??.
Looks as tough as .. ✔
 
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After Monday and Tuesday, even the calender says W
06 Td42ti coil cab chassis
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Wish i had half ya skills mate..You are 1 clever man.
 
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Discussion Starter #138
Righto, I have been driving around a bit and some things clearly needed lovins;

The power steering was still leaking (****s sake!) and I realised it was actually the lid of the reservoir not sealing properly after I had ****ed with it. I sourced another reservoir and slapped it in unmodified and it seems to be sorted. Probably.

Mostly there have been shenanigans around the cooling, I wasn't happy with it cycling on the fan at road speed so I thought I would have a go at solving it. The custom rad that cost lots of money wasn't cutting it so I found a cheap standard safari rad that I thought would fit. This had the benefits of completely filling the hole which might allow some ducting/sealing/airflow to take place. I also thought I might fit another fan if needed.

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Sat the bitch in place and made up some brackets. Someone suggested that fitting it upside down would mean the outlets were better placed so this is how it sat.

I had to cut off the rad cap pipe and I stupidly decided to silver solder it rather than lead, this was dumb;

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So I bought a new rad and got it modified properly by the rad dude. It had a much fatter core so that's no bad thing.

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I made lots of bits to duct air in, including some fins on the door;

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As part of all this I messed with the stainless pipes to make them work, plus I added a second drain point underneath so both sides would drain rather than pissing lots of coolant out on the floor when I pull the pipes out.

I had discovered that filling the coolant was a bastard of a job as it basically had to drain through the thermostat to fill the engine. I decided to add a fill point on the lower pipe to solve this. Unfortunately this meant that any air burping from the system ended up collecting in the fill pipe and making weird things happen with the overflow.

A couple of days ago I added a pipe from the top of the fill cap back to the thermostat housing, this has settled it down so it works properly so I am no longer stressing out that I have cracked the head.

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All this ended up with almost no significant change in the cooling situation.

So I tied some ribbon inside the fins then taped an old cellphone in place so I could video it and try to get a feel for where the air was going. It sort of looked like it was coming in the side and dropping out the bottom, so I blocked off the bottom and tried again. There wasn't really enough difference to make a call, so I ended up pulling the 300mm fan (which probably wasn't doing much) out of the intercooler and strapped that on as well. I set it up on a switch so I could run it all the time to act as a wind substitute.

This was a definite improvement, things are cycling way less.

I'm still not 100% happy though, I'm starting to wonder if the pump just isn't flowing enough through the system or there is too much of a delay between thermoswitch and cooling action. Maybe I need a thermostat that always let's a bit of flow through all the time?

Anyway it is pretty close to satisfactory, the plan now is to do the following;

  • Duct the side fins right up to the rad.
  • Make the constant fan into a pusher, and maybe go bigger too.
  • Putting the constant fan on the inlet side would make shrouding the big fan a more realistic option, so I will look at this too.

It is fun to drive around, the pleasure is real. It really needs some sound dampening in the cab though.

There is a sliding scale of interest from other drivers, peaking with drivers of anything lifted and on muds. The 'tuff' Ranger crowd give it the side eye, in my head this means they now realise they have headed down a wrong path.. probably.
 

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Discussion Starter #140
I have spent the last week or so chipping away at changes to the rad layout. I have made the small fan into a pusher and mounted it to the outside of the rad. There are now three 'chambers', the front one feeds the small fan which blows constantly, the other two feed straight into the rad. The big fan is still a puller but now sits behind the two back chambers. There is also a bit of extra sealing/ducting lovins.

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I may yet shroud the big fan but I'd see what happened with this. The little fan could be a bigger one as well.

The result is that driving around town it doesn't seem to cycle the big fan at all (but obviously it will when in traffic), then on the open road it still cycles but nowhere near as much.

I'm happier with that for sure but I will run it like this for a bit and get a feel for the performance....
 
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